Wood apron under window sill cracked and coming off wall
The wood stool or apron (Google is confusing me which) under the ceramic window sill cracked in a few spots and is coming off wall, so now there's a draft coming in to the room. I'm referring to the slightly angled piece of wood that's vertically under the ceramic/plastic horizontal sill that appears to be nailed to the wall. Guessing it cracked and stuff due to recent very cold weather.
It's only 4 ft wide. Do I just get some special kind of glue and glue it back to the wall? Do I have to buy a new one and nail it back to the wall? I looked on a local home improvement store and the only one they sold was like twice the length I needed.
As you can tell, I have no idea what I'm doing here, but would need to fix it myself.
edit: Looking more online, I almost wonder if it's just "casing" under the sill nailed to the wall, it really just looks like a slanted piece of wood under there, nothing too fancy
Last edited by ehbegsir; 01-09-22 at 08:37 AM.
Reason: more detail
you can see the crack a little bit in to the right and where it's starting to come off the wall. That's the only pic I took while I was still there though, so not sure if it's much help
for some reason when I try to link to the image I uploaded it doesn't work it keeps changing the URL on me, not sure
Last edited by PJmax; 01-09-22 at 01:18 PM.
Reason: added pic from link
I'm attaching a pic of a door handle on an exterior door. The door also has a deadbolt which is not shown, as it is not involved in the discussion. It used to be that when the door was slammed shut, it used to latch by itself. Thereafter, it could be unlatched by pushing down on the exterior lever or turning the knob from the inside. I'm also attaching a pic of the inside knob. These days the behavior has changed. Most of the time, when the door is shut, it does not latch, with the result that the door can be flung open either by wind or a knob pull (without turning) from the inside or a door push (without depressing the lever) from the outside. In such a case, the lever stays in the down position. I can manually move the lever up which does cause the latch to take hold when the door is shut. There are also times that when the door has been successfully latched, the outside lever is hard to press down and it can take repeated attempts to unlatch. How can I fix this?
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/img_2011_8ae38b87fadf5de83944ccb1f1e22de9d05ddbdc.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/img_2014_9cbb5e62c525de782d0a3187afd19075da47e1de.jpg[/img]
Hi there,
I need to install a storm door in an opening (distance between exterior trim) of W 35 1/4 inches. I would rather not rip/cut back the exterior trim. I am considering installing a h[color=#222222]alf view [/color][color=#222222]storm door. [/color]
[color=#222222]I am thinking of extending the brick mold and installing a 36 inch wide storm door. [/color]In this approach, what is the shortest extension I can use? Would a nominal 1 inch by 1 inch extension be enough to ensure that the storm door is secured correctly? There is enough space between the top of the brick mold and the bottom of the deck for a small extension.
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1333/dsc_2785_copy_0b3a2d403cf307a0b43f1ee212c521860ec00b7a.jpg[/img]
thanks in advance for your advice
01-09-22, 08:29 AM
Wood apron under window sill cracked and coming off wall
