I tried to install my new exterior door. It is a Therma-Tru 32" fiberglass door and actually measures 31 15/16". The door does not appear to be sagging as the hinge side gap is about the same all the way till just above the top hinge, where the gap actually decreases and the jamb is actually touching the door. The top gap is even all the way across and the predrilled holes for the locksets have the bores centered with holes in jamb. I then measured the total width of unit at bottom (where there is a threshold that sets the width) and compared to the width at the top (where the top of jamb sets the width) and found that the top is slightly over 3/16" less. Manufacturing defect? The door is touching the jamb on both the striker side and hinge side. I suppose I can pull the side jambs away from top jamb slightly on each side and then fill gap with caulk? Haven't had a chance to call the manufacturer yet as they were already closed by the time I had discovered I had a problem. Am I missing something? I have never installed exterior door but have done plenty of interior ones.
I think pictures would help but it sounds like you need to pull the top hinge tighter to the studs - this is normally pretty easy if you have one or more long screws in each hinge such that you are in the structure with said screw.
Using my level, it seems the hinge side jamb bows in slightly, which explains the lack of gap. I can use narrower shim at top and when tighten a screw it will pull jamb top out and open gap between jamb and door, except pulling that jamb would pull top jamb which would pull Striker jamb. But Striker jamb already touching door so it can't move and tightening the screw would pull open a gap between one or both of the side jambs and the top jamb. Simply can not have a 31 15/16" Door, with say 3/32" gap on each side, if the distance between jambs is 31 15/16", unless you create gap between side jambs and top jamb.
Spoke with manufacturer,. Said sounds like defect. Said to have place where purchased contact rep. Spoke to rep. He viewed pictures as well as pics of tape measure while measuring the total unit width at top and bottom. He agree that head jamb cut too short. arranging to get it back to place where I bought it and it will be sent to be fixed. Said 3-4 days.
I am framing out basement for a TV/rec room. I framed out furnace area but wanted to add 4' bifold doors for air and access- In doing so I realized that because of ductwork- the height for the doors is now like 5'. I don't think i can cut a bifold door that much- Which bring me to what other options do i have. I guess i can build by own doors. any thoughts? Framed opening is 4' wide by about 5.5' high
Hello fellow DIY enthusiasts!
I am looking to replace the old 53"x30" windows in my 1940 Florida balloon frame home with 59"x35" newer windows. They are vinyl ply gem 1500 series. Does anyone know of a thin hurricane rated mull kit that will fit two of these windows together? My partner, Henry, and I have called all over the place trying to find some, and apparently this window type is also a bit outdated. We are having a tough time finding any that fit or could maybe even be modified. They are new construction, and I have a closeup photo of what the side of the window looks like.
If we are able to mull these windows, they should be the perfect width to stick in the box from the old windows (due to the additional voids present where the old window weights currently hang). I've heard we might be able to mull them to together with wood, but could this be done so that the mull is an inch or less thick and still structurally sound?
Additionally, we just ran into another problem when we took off some of the plaster and lath today, well, several problems. One, we fully fumigated for termites in July and found a nest of what we are afraid could be termites in the walls (warning: gross picture included). Two, we need some opinions on the safest way to move the header above the window up to accommodate for the additional height of the new windows (there is just enough open space for this between the supports). Three, above the header, the top plate (along the wall/ceiling line holding up the roof), has 3/4" of termite damage in the spot we inspected (pictures included).
Any suggestions for any of these things? We have remodeled much of the home and are not afraid of any amount of work, so please no "run away" advice. We do have a limit to our budget, and so are looking for instructional advice on how to safely do these things. We can then budget this out and figure out what to do next.
Thank you so much!
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02-21-22, 10:52 PM
