House built in 1984, two Anderson skylights.roof windows (operable). In 2007 we had the roof redone, opted not to replace the skylights. 10/12 pitch roof.
A leak in one developed this past year, so we had a contractor out to check it / reflash it. He told us the head flashing was never tucked under the shingles. I called the roofing company and the owner told me "since it didn't leak in 15 years, they don't see how they could have installed it incorrectly". They want $200 to come out and inspect, and $400 to reflash the top.
Now - could there be a leak we just don't see? My question is - who do I believe? I can't find an installation manual for these windows, they are out of production (since 2009). That top piece of flashing that doesn't tuck under the roof looks suspicious, but perhaps that was the design?
How do you know you have a leak if you don't see it? If you have a leak it doesn't matter. It needs to be fixed.
Either the contractor or roofing company should be able to do the repair. It probably will need to be re-flashed. The flashing on top of the shingles at the top of the skylight in your photo isn't doing anything except collecting leaves.
I don't know what that extra flashing on top is, but its not a factory head flashing. The head flashing is part of the piece that wraps around the top of the skylight and its under the wrong row of shingles. Should be under the next row down. Unknown why any other flashing was added. Maybe to try to fix their mistake.
Was the former roof also asphalt shingles, or something else?
@johnam - unfortunately that's not the same window - the guide is for 1999 to present... our windows were installed in 1984.
@XSleeper - the former roof was asphalt. The color of that extra flashing on top is the same as the aluminum flashing used around the skylight - and I doubt the roofing company put it on there - that is it was either factory or done by the original builder. When the weather gets nicer I'm going to get up on the roof and inspect it myself, probably will end up doing the repair on the second skylight myself.
I couldn't justify paying the first contractor who came over any more to do the second window - I think he overcharged me as the quote was to redo all the flashing, but he only needed to do the top flashing of the skylight. I am not opposed to paying someone to do this - but at a certain point when you (feel like you) get screwed over you lose any faith you have in contractors, no matter how nice they are.
Here's the real odd thing - when talking with the Andersen company - the date code on the glass told them it was manufactured in... 1996. House was built in 1984 and the windows have never been changed/repaired. I'm guessing either the code was etched incorrectly or their database is wrong.
We have a screen door to the front of the house and the glass that was in it came out one day and we're not able to get it back in. The wife tried taping it back on (bad idea) but it always came off after a few days. This glass was on the inside of the screen door and the screen is on the outside. I have been racking my brain trying to come up with a solution (aside from buying a new screen door). If I can avoid buying a new screen door that would be great. What I need is some kind of glass that I can simply screw onto the screen door. If I have to, I am willing to put screws in that door. Anyways, please give me some advice/suggestions if you can. I would really appreciate it.
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I'm looking for advice about how to remove a window spring tab so I can solder it back together.
Our farmhouse front door is so narrow we went with a mobile home door, which has a slide up/slide down pane held in place by two spring-loaded prongs. One of the pins has broken off where the pull-tab meets the pin (thus the gap were the screwdriver blade is.
They're simple cast pins, so they should be fixable with solder, BUT I don't see how to remove the pin from the window frame so the break can be fixed. There is a return/tension spring in the lower part of the frame to the left of the pull tab, aside from that I don't see anything that suggests how to remove the pins from the frame.
Anybody with window experience know how the pins come out? Is there a clip, a retaining pin or other simple technique to remove the pin? Or am I going to have to disassemble the frame to get to the pins?
Those with sharp eyes will notice that the pins are upside-down. That's intentional because the from-the-factory configuration had the screen on the bottom and the window slide up. With a cat and occasionally dog-sitting, that was not a good setup, so the window insert has been flipped so the solid window is at pet height, and the screen is at the top.
03-21-22, 09:27 AM
