Have a set of hollow core sliding closte doors where I rent My 8 year old twins had put a hole in one , I had reversed them and painted , now we have another hole in the same door . I really do not want to buy a new one , as then i'd have to cut it doen , what is the best repair for a slab masonite door ?
I'd do basically the same as Marq but use Durabond instead of Bondo. Put a screw in the backer piece so you can pull it tight, remove after the adhesive sets.
Thank you , since its a sliding door which might be stronger and resist cracking , Bondo or Durabond ?
Thanks for the advice , it seems obvious yet I missed that .
Managed residential rentals for many (too many?) years-
You'll need some Elmer's glue or wood-glue, some stiff cardboard or very heavy cardstock/hallmark card paper, and about 1-foot of fishing line, two kitchen sponges and a pencil.
Measure the longest distance across the hole - e.g. red. This shows how wide (red) you can make the rear support.
Cut a square long enough to overlap the hole e.g. blue. Cut a heavy cardboard insert to be as large as you can slide through the existing hole in the wall. Make 2 small holes and pass the fishing line through both, tie a square not at the end. Paint the cardboard with glue but NOT where the fishing line is, slip the reinforcing patch through the hole, and using the fishing line, align it so that it's squarely behind the hole.
Slip the pencil through the loop and twist like a windlass- place 1 sponge under each end of the pencil, spanning the hole, to distribute the weight, avoid scuffing what paint is left, and keep the pencil from spinning backwards and loosening.
Once the glue is dry, unwind the pencil-windlass and untie the not, or cut the fishing line and pull it out of the patch.
You should now have a patch that is glued in from behind, which should have pulled the dent/hole flat and flush, and should be ready to paint.
My old 24x80 bathroom door frame is pretty beat up I decided to replace it with a pre hung door. Without checking I noticed when I got home my door frame opening is 3 1/4 and the pre hung jamb is 4 9/16. To buy a special order jamb it would cost much more and take sometime to receive. I could return the door and try to build a frame and put a door slab in but my skills are not the best when it comes to installing hinges and cutting door holes and striker plates. If it would work to me cutting the door jamb about a inch would save me that extra work. just about a inch on the non hinge side of the frame there is a notch line. I was thinking to use that line as my guide to cut it. What would be a good way to approach this? cut the jamb while its together or take it apart? The jamb looks a little flimsy but I guess I could take my time and take it apart and then carefully nail and screw it back together. What are your guys thoughts?
I need some advice on the correct/best layout for building a window jamb extension for an unusual shaped window.
Everything I've read, for a typical square/rectangle window, the horizontal pieces are cut to the full length of the window and verticals are cut a bit short to accommodate the thickness of the board that they "stand" on.
I have a window where there are three windows installed as a single unit. The middle unit is taller than the two edges so it has the appearance of steps. Something like this
_______
_______l l________
l l
l l
My question pertains to the two corners that are the reverse direction from what is in a typically found in a square/rectangle window. Do I continue with the pattern of the vertical sides "standing" on horizontal pieces and thus extend the boards that are at the top of the shorter windows past their edge so the short verticals on the higher portion can stand on them? Or can I extend the verticals on the higher window down and attach the horizontals to the side of those pieces? I'm not sure if the typical board placement is constructed for a structural reason or an aesthetic reason and want to make sure I'm not messing it up.
03-23-22, 08:00 AM
