Replacing door hinges

Hello everyone, I am interested in replacing all of the hinges on the interior doors in my home. They are all old gold hinges that look beat up and in some cases, they have been painted over. I want to freshen up the look by replacing the hinges with new ones by using a satin nickel color to match the door knobs (all of which I replaced).

Here's the new hinge...I have to verify this is the right size: Everbilt 3-1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Radius Satin Nickel Door Hinge Value Pack (12 per Pack) 16909

I've never done this before and while it appears to me that this is just simple screw old hinge off, screw new hinge back on type of job, these type of home improvement projects are never as easy as it may appear to be. Is there anything I should be aware of before going ahead with this?

I plan on buying the same exact hinge as the old one, so hopefully there's no issue in terms of having the new hinge fit into the imprint of the old one. I have attached pics of the old hinges.

Thank you.

 

Yes, you have the correct hinge. You will probably find that it is easiest if you just replace the hinges one at a time. For any that are painted over, you will want to take a hammer and screwdriver and tap the screwdriver into the paint, cleaning out as much as possible so that you aren't as likely to strip the screw when you go to remove it. Take note of where longer screws have been installed and put them back in the exact same places. (The black screw in photo one is likely a longer screw).

And obviously, when you put the new hinges on, orient them so that the hinge pin faces up.

 

Also I would get a knife and cut around the outside edge of the hinges so that paint does not come off the door or moldings when you remove the hinges.

 

Hi guys, I started this project and I'm having several issues.



1) I need to remove the pin on the new hinges to put the door stopper on it. I cannot, for the life of me, get the pin removed from the hinge. I need to do this for 5 hinges. Any suggestions on how to get the pin removed with out completely obliterating the hinge?



2) Despite my careful efforts, I have stripped several of the old screws. Some of them just won't budge. Any guidance on how to get the screw out? Should I get a damaged screw extractor drill bit?



Thank you!

 

Take a nail set and drive the hinge pin up from the bottom with a hammer. Or tap a thin putty knife or thin flat screwdriver straight in under the head of the hinge pin then pry upward.

Don't know what to say about the stripped screws. You kind of hosed yourself by stripping them. You can probably use an extractor set on them. I say probably because extractors also require some talent.

Another option sometimes suggested here is to get yourself a Dremel tool and cut a slot straight across the head of the screw so that you can use a flat screwdriver on it.

 

I still can't get the pin out. I even bought one of those stupid Ryobi door hinge tools for $5 to see if that would help. It didn't. I may resort to wall door stoppers anyways since the existing door stoppers are damaging the frame and door itself.

I got a drill extractor bill and it took care of all the stripped screws, except one. I'm going to give that a second shot later.

Next question. I replaced hinges to my office door. Two hinges on this door. Everything looks good. The hinges are flush with the wall and the screws are in tightly. The bottom part of the bottom hinge did have a smidge of an issue getting fully flush (it was only very very slightly not flush), but I used a hammer to tap in place and it's pretty flush now. However, when I close the door, it feels like there's some resistance right before door closes. In other words, the door closes normally except right before it's about to fully shut all the way, I feel a light resistance. Is this an issue or should I just let it be? Any suggestions for that?

Thanks!

 

Post a photo of your hinge, as viewed from the bottom. I can hardly imagine anyone wouldn't be able to knock the pin out, unless you can't swing a hammer.

As for the resistance you feel, go around to the side of the door with the door stop and look and see if the corner of the door is rubbing on it when you swing it open and closed. This is more likely to happen on doors with only 2 hinges. When the door is closed there should be a slight gap between the door stop and the door on the hinge side. If it's too tight to slip a credit card into, the door is probably rubbing on the door stop as it closes. Repositioning the door stop is the solution.

If it's not that, look at how much space is between the door and the jamb on the hinge side. Anywhere it is tight... too tight to slip in even a business card... that would also create some resistance. As long as you have plenty of space on the latch side, you can shim the hinge out slightly... tape a few flat toothpicks in the mortise behind the hinge and tighten it back down.

And I would think you would notice if it was rubbing on the latch side. So I doubt that's it.

 

Hi, thank you for that post. I didn't see it until just now. Sorry for the delay in my response. I took some pictures of my door. I followed what you said. In this picture, the door is about an inch, maybe inch and half from being closed all the way. This is where I start to feel that resistance. If you look at the top hinge area, you can see the door is very tight to the frame with no space in between. That's in odds with the bottom hinge, where you can see a space. That's the issue here.

First pic is of bottom hinge. Middle pic is the top hinge. Last pic is the whole door.

 

yes, that's why I'm saying the door stop probably needs to be moved. You'd take a utility knife and carefully cut down the seam that has been caulked. Then tap a thin putty knife behind it to make some space. Once you have some space, you can get a pry bar in there.

Multiple layers of paint can eventually cause a problem like that.

 

I would cut down both sides and the top and bottom so that when you remove it you do not mess up the paint too much.