The garage door needs to be replaced to sell a house. Is this hinge installed correctly or should it have been chiseled into the door. I need this done quickly and cheaply and even though it's not the right way maybe I was just wondering if I could get a 32x80 exterior slab door and since it was built like this already I don't know why I cant do it again. Or maybe it's correct?
Some doors come that way from the factory... often cheap box store doors. Mortising it will increase the gap on the latch side so if it closes fine its not a problem.
So how about an interior bedroom door. It measures exactly 30x80 so I'm assuming it direct replacement would be very easy. Current bedroom door has peeled away and would just take a crazy amount of effort to make look better much easier to buy new and I don't mind chiseling the hinges because that will be easier than trying to glue door together
I have a Velux Type ES circa 1998 skylight that the motor won't stop when [u]opening[/u], it just makes a loud popping noise. It closes just fine. This seems to be the opposite of most of the problems I can find on here. Any ideas? Would cutting the blue wire on the motor help in this situation too? Thanks.
Hello all, it's really nice to find this forum. I'm all about educating myself on jobs so I can do it myself and not need to pay someone else.
I'm remodeling a small bathroom for my first time and would like to change the old aluminum window out with an impact window. I don't need a permit if I don't change the structure, so I don't plan on cutting stucco/flashing/patching and everything is already demo'd from the inside.
From what I've studied, I can either cut along the outside perimeter where aluminum meets the stucco edge (leaving nailing fin in stucco) or I can try to collapse the frame and the nail fin should rip through the nails. Is anyone familiar with South Florida block homes built 1990 and if the nail fin is actually nailed or mortared?
I bought a 36" x 25" Jeld-Wen that should fit but the Florida Flange is kinda confusing. I assume once the old window is out I'd build a 3/4" frame around the rough opening for the flange to caulk to, add shims and use 3" Tapcons to screw to the inside block. Does this sound about right?
First 2 pics are of window to replace, 3rd pic is an impact window a contractor replaced somehow without removing stucco, and 4th is what the 3/4" Florida flange on the window looks like. Thanks in advance!
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08-07-22, 01:15 PM
