I can't see which forum to use for exterior doors but I posted once here before and got helpful answers, so I will try again.
I bought the FrameSaver 12" rot repair kit to fix some door jamb rot. The instructions say if damage is on the hinge side, to cut your mark "several inches below the load bearing area."
I'm in a dilemma because the edge of my rot extends to just even with the bottom of my hinge, not several inches below. See attached photo and the pencil line showing the edge of the wet wood.
I could see 3 approaches but am unsure which is structurally best:
- Cut my mark an inch or two below the hinge and use epoxy or Bondo-like substance to fill in the small amount of rot that would extend beyond the new jamb repair insert.
- Cut to the edge of the rot at pencil line and have bottom edge of hinge rest along top edge of new jamb repair insert.
- Use the full 12" of the jamb repair insert and cut a new mortise for this hinge. Top of hinge is just shy of 12", so would align with top of new insert.
Thoughts? I contacted the company but they just provided me with the same line from the instructions. I'm confused why the instructions say to go several inches below the hinge, since the instructional video clearly shows the person cutting about 1/2" or less below the hinge (see 2nd photo). Maybe this approach would be fine to copy.
I'd make sure there is solid blocking behind the bottom hinge and then make the cut right below the hinge. I'd also replace the screws in the bottom hinge with ones long enough to go into whatever framing is between the brick and the jamb.
I have original vinyl windows from 2005. One of them is stuck. I can pull the bottom panel out of the frame and it appears that the roller on the left side of the window frame is stuck. The cord that is attached to the roller is taut and very tight in comparison to the other window. I've tried prying out the roller but can't seem to get it out of the track. Does anyone have any help for this?
I have a home built in 2004 with original vinyl windows set in 2x6 walls. They are not replacement windows. They are single hung windows (fixed upper sash). One window has an air gap between the sash and frame in the center of the sash of 1/8". It is large enough that you can see daylight between sash and frame. The top of the sash and bottom sash measurements are equal with no gap. Gap is only in the center. This particular window is in the front of the home where there is brick, so the nailing flange is not visible. On the inside, there is a vinyl/plastic jamb extension from the window to the drywall. There is drywall and corner bead to the vinyl jamb extension. My question is, it appears I just need to shim between the rough framing and vinyl window frame to eliminate the gap, meaning I need to remove the drywall corner bead and possibly the jamb extension, but with no access to the nailing flange on the front of the home due to the brick, is this possible? Does the vinyl/plastic jamb extension need to be removed? It seems to be clipped into the window frame, but I have no experience with a vinyl extension, so I am not sure if it is easily removeable once the drywall corner bead is removed. I have uploaded a photo mostly to show how the interior of the window is finished. If you zoom on the right window lower sash, you can see the gap in the center of the sash, but I will upload a better photo later today showing the issue. I will also upload a photo of the exterior.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/56589075120_aca1be43_c1ed_4002_b1a5_41ad93a47d3b_6e6cd6d29484c10b24ef4bbbdf81cebacf277730.jpg[/img]
[i]Ignore the horrible green! This is to show the vinyl jamb extensions and drywall to the extension. [/i]
. Appreciate the help and advice.
10-18-22, 06:33 PM
