Water coming through bottom of door


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Old 10-21-22, 03:20 PM
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Water coming through bottom of door

Hi all. I was hoping I could get some help with water pooling into the interior sill of my door after a rain (and getting the floor wet).

Iíve never dealt with a metal frame door, and I noticed these weep holes on the exterior and interior. Could it be that the water is getting into the exterior holes and making its way inside? Iím also wondering if the door seal just isnít tight enough and water is getting in between the door and seal, though I donít think it is because thereís a little lip on the exterior side of the door that diverts the rain away. The sill shown in the second photo is angled towards the interior of the home so Iím questioning if it wasnít installed correctly because it seems like it should be angled towards the outside?




 
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Old 10-21-22, 07:21 PM
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Wind driven rain is likely following your weatherstripping down. Doors need storm doors if they see much wind and rain.
 
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Old 10-27-22, 08:41 PM
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I think youíre right about the water running along weatherstripping into the bottom! I looked a little closer and there are some small gaps along the side.
 
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Old 10-27-22, 09:27 PM
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If pushing the door tighter helps seal those gaps, then you need to adjust your strike plate so that it latches tighter.
 
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Old 10-29-22, 06:52 AM
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The issue seems to be that the door is actually too tight against the frame and sticks before it meets the weather stripping, causing a gap in some spots. A locksmith tried to adjust the hinges and said there was no more adjusting that could be done. The locksmith seemed to think the door was fine but the frame had issues. Iím having trouble finding any handymen that can figure out the issue and are willing to work on the door frame.

I looked into a storm door and it seems like it would be pretty pricey so Iíd like to leave that as a last resort. I had a couple ideas. Do you think it would be a bad idea to plane off a little bit of wood in the door frame area where the door sticks? This is where the strike plates sit. Or drill additional weep holes in the door sill pan? The pan is slightly angled towards the interior while the weep holes are on the edge that faces the exterior. I was thinking of drilling weep holes closer the interior side since that is actually how the pan is sloped. Do you have any idea of the sill pan is installed properly? It just doesnít make sense to me that it is sloped towards the interior with the weep holes at the top of the slope.
 

Last edited by Potato8; 10-29-22 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 10-29-22, 07:29 AM
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You "could" drill an extra weep hole but getting the door to shut tighter might be the solution. Weep holes are always limited because they not only let water out but they can let air/wind in. Planing the door will require repainting so I would say that is a last resort too.

Your locksmith may not know all there is about shimming doors, so let me talk you through that. First, send a photo of the hinges with the door wide open so I can see both sides. Some are adjustable.

Assuming they are NOT the adjustable type, remove the screws from one jamb side hinge at a time. You could buy a pack of these and cut them about 1/2" wide (if you wanted to try them) or just use some strips of cardboard that you cut about 1/2" wide x 4" long. You place the shim in the jamb mortise, placing it vertically on the outside edge of the mortise, closest to the weatherstripping. Then screw the hinge back down. Do that on all your hinges, one at a time. It moves the pivot point slightly and it might be enough to gain you some clearance at the latch.
 
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Old 10-29-22, 11:05 AM
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The door is actually partially made of metal so I wouldnít be able to plane the door. I was thinking of doing the frame. It actually seems like the previous owners of this unit may have done the same because it does look a little thinner in the top section.

The hinges are adjustable hinges but Iím not sure what adjustments need to be made or how. The door seems to be sitting fairly flush along the hinge side? I guess the gap is a little bigger in the middle of the door but my issue is with the door sticking at the top, but realize it all may be connected. The hinges are numbered from top to bottom. I thought the orange screws might have been causing the slightly larger gap in the middle towards the hinge side but I put a sheet of paper in between those hinges and pulled them out with the door closed and the paper pulled out intact so I donít think the larger screw heads are putting stress on the hinges when closed. Also probably worth noting, there is a larger gap at the top left of the door and the bottom right.

I really appreciate your help because Iím absolutely lost!



Second hinge seems to be different than the rest.

Sticking at top where there is black discoloration. The locksmith left off the metal strike plate for this lock because it made the door even more difficult to close. This is a multipoint lock door.

larger gaps at opposite corners of door. Top left and bottom right.


I think this may be the culprit. Small gap between door and weatherproofing at the top.
 
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Old 10-29-22, 11:44 AM
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Good photos. Yes I can see from the reveal on the top of the door that it is jacked up. The door is likely not sitting on a level surface, which is likely making it drag on bottom and on the latch side. The entire door would need to be removed and reinstalled in order to fix that out of level condition. I suspect the hinge side of the sill is lower than the latch side. Or it is level but out of plumb. Same difference though... its why the gap is goofy across the top of the door.

If someone changed the glass in the door at any point, then THAT is probably the source of the sagging door. There should be a Pella watermark (bug) in the corner of the glass if it is original. You could also measure the glass opening of the door to see if it is square. Measure the glass opening diagonally. Top left to bottom right measurement should equal the top right to bottom left measurement. If they aren't the same, the door has sagged around the glass. This would happen if the glass perimeter wasn't shimmed properly when it was replaced.

It looks like an old Pella multipoint lock door, and yes, it does have the adjustable hinges. There are arrows on the hinge that show which way the small adjusting screw adjusts... so you should be able to figure that out. However it looks like they are not both vertical AND horizontal adjusting. You could try new hinges that are. Here is a link.

You have several screws in your photos that are not flush, and that is not helping matters any. If the hinge hits on those screw heads as it closes due to their not being flush, it would push the door tighter at the latch. The torx screws on hinge 3 need to be tightened. The big screw on hinge 4 needs to be ground down so that it doesn't protrude.

Another potential problem is the way the door was measured and trimmed. Your door was not the right wall thickness for your wall and so a jamb extension had to be added onto the interior side of the door jamb. If there is no clearance between the hinges and that jamb extension, then it is probably not helping either. The hinge adjustments I referred to earlier will only work if the hinges have room to move slightly to the right. If you can slip a credit card between the hinge and the door jamb extension when the door is closed, then you have room to adjust the hinges with shims. If its tight, you don't. If you have the clearance to do so, (credit card sized space) try what I said at the end of post 6.
 
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Old 10-29-22, 04:39 PM
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Thanks!

Just confirming, by door not sitting on a
level surface, do you mean that the floors arenít level?

I put a privacy film on the door which is why the glass looks a little odd. The watermark seems to be an L but the glass/L/other notations are upside down. (I flipped it in the photo for ease of viewing.) Do you think that is indicative of it being replaced? Do you think that L could be for Larson?

I did a diagonal measurement and I think the glass is about .25 inches longer going from bottom left to top right but it Iíll need to get another person to help hold the tape measure to confirm that itís truly uneven. Could the door be repaired if the glass wasnít properly shimmed and is causing the door to sag? I looked up the replacement cost for these doors and yikes!

I don't think thereís any way I can rehang this door as a laymanÖ I live in a major metro area and havenít had any luck with finding a handyman who is knowledgeable in doors. Seems to be one in my area but heís got a huge backlog and other door repair companies only work on commercial doors. Based on your experience, do you think my situation is something a typical handyman would be versed in? Not sure if Iím just not reaching out to the right individuals or if there arenít a lot of people who deal with these kinds of doors.





 
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Old 10-29-22, 04:46 PM
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That's a Lincoln door and window trademark.

https://lincolnwindows.com/

if it's out of square you could get ahold of them and see if they would replace it as a warranty item. The door itself should stay square, if it doesnt, that's a mfg defect.
 
 

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