If I drill into the vinyl, what is under there? What is the core of the sash made of? One of my windows will need to be partway open to accommodate a portable air conditioner. In order to lock the window (as is, someone could slide either sash freely), I want to drill a hole through the lower sash face and into the upper sash face to take a security bolt. The bolt head would be recessed and requires a "key" to remove. As an alternative to this, I could make vertical stops and screw them into the jambs.
Is it solid in there?
Thank you for the fast response! It's probably just as well, and maybe easier too. I can still countersink the stops to make the bolt heads hard to get to, especially the one on the outside, and paint the stops white to look good.
Hi Norm - thanks! That works fine on the inside sash, but the outside sash needs something that is hard to remove. If someone cut the screen, the prop or stop could simply be pulled out, and the sash could be lowered. That's why I'm thinking about putting a security bolt in that piece. The air conditioner piece that fits in the window is only about 8" tall, so the sashes could be moved quite a bit to gain access.
OK I understand. I just don't like the idea of putting a hole into the window itself. You may beak the seal and weaken the frame and also allow moisture to seep into the framing.
How about screwing a block of wood or a metal stop into the side of the window frame instead, preventing the sash from moving? Use the same antitheft type bolt that needs the key in order to remove it. If a break in takes place with that system, there is little doubt anything else will stop a break in at that point.
OK - I did it. A block cut for each sash, with the outside sash piece screwed into the frame on the side. The inner piece isn't screwed since by the time you get to that from the outside, you would already have needed to break something. I used 3/4" x 1 1/2" PVC trim board thinking it would look nicer. This was the first time I've used that and I liked it for this project. Not having to prime and paint made up for the price difference. My wife is happy so all is good. It actually looks like part of the window, and I figured it so that the pieces can stay in place even when the AC is removed for winter, and even when cleaning the tilt-in windows.
Thanks guys, for the help. It's great to have such fast and good support!
Window question.
My daughter needs to get new windows. These are not just the typical window, but floor to ceiling style in the front. The front of the house is an “A” frame style. These will also include typical double hung widows around the rest of the house. Several widow installers have mentioned three types. Vinyl, all wood, or wood veneer. Vinyl is not an option. However the veneer is substantially less expensive than solid wood. The inside will have decorative veneer on an all solid wood frame. She is worried that after a short period of time (say 2 to 5 years) the veneer may begin to peel or chip.
Does anybody have an opinion? I think the veneer will be fine.
FWIW... she lives in central PA.Read More
I have a little barn-style house that was slapped together by subcontractors in 2018. They did a very basic window installation, and it's clear that they neglected to finish the windows properly. (No flashing, or whatever other materials are necessary to make windows watertight.) When the rain hits my kitchen window, water comes in all along the top edge. I caulked the exterior of that window (top and sides) and the top and sides of the boards that frame the window. I even caulked along the top edge of the long horizontal piece of trim that goes from side to side above that window. The rain has not been deterred. The second story window occasionally seeps moisture when it rains, but it's never as bad as the kitchen window. If anyone can point me in the right direction as to how to solve this problem, I would be most grateful.Read More