Hey I’ve been trying to figure out how to get my slider out without cutting a thin piece of vinyl on the inside bottom of the frame which prevents it from tilting in at the bottom to be removed.
I’ve pulled the screen door off but am also unsure how to get the fixed door off (it appears the fixed portion has caulk on the seam about 3/4” from the frame, but other than that I can’t see any screws). Not sure if the thin piece on the side is made to pop off, but when I tried it was very stiff.
Ultimately I’ve been waiting most of the winter for warmer weather to get the door off to clean and assess the rollers as it’s been sticking (I assume the dog hair from 3 dogs and dirt from 2 kids is the issue) and getting harder and harder to open and close. I’ve tried vacuuming out the tracks as well as taking a wire brush to them with it not helping a ton. Label, not sure the brand Vinyl lip appears to be part of the door as far as I can tell. Not sure if this piece can be removed without it breaking or bending, tried without much luck.
Can you lift the sliding door straight up, high enough that its bottom clears the track? You might need a helper at the bottom to push up the wheels. I doubt you can easily remove the fixed part and don't know why you'd need to.
To bet the fixed panel off, first remove the snap in vertical cap that is on the side of the fixed panel, shown in photos 5 and 8. Use a thin stiff putty knife and pry it off.
Post a better brighter picture of photo #3, bottom panel, inside bottom of fixed panel. And a photo of the top of that fixed panel, both with the operating door closed.
But if you are only trying to remove the sliding panel, you first need to lower the rollers all the way. And give us a photo of the right side of that sliding panel from the inside that shows the narrow side of the door.
See additional images below. Even with the wheels up all the way and the door being lifted the bottom of the frame of the door hits the piece of vinyl that runs along the inside bottom. That piece is about 1/4” higher than the track.
I came to that conclusion too, and was just barely able to get it out! Thank you. Interior trim with the bolt on it was keeping the door from getting up high enough. With it removed just barely enough space to pull it inside.
Hi all,
First time posting here. Found a couple of old threads and then this one which seems to be the newest. Bought a late ‘80s house in Park City, UT that has two Velux powered skylight windows and integrated powered blinds. We typically leave them open during the warm months as it hardly rains here and we don’t have A/C so they allow heat to escape from the main living room which has vaulted ceilings. Windows are about 18’ up from the floor so hard to access as I don’t have a ladder tall enough. The problem is that they won’t shut...
It has rained here recently and although they openings aren’t too much there is still rain coming in. Not to mention winter is coming and it is getting down into the 40s at night so shutting them would be nice.
There are switches on the wall of the living room that control the operation of the windows (open/close) and the blinds (pitch). Since there are two windows there are four switches. The single metallic switch on top (see below images) controls one of the window blinds and the individual switch buttons on the three switch panel on bottom control the other blind pitch and then the two windows open/close.
There is power to the single top metallic switch as the blinds for the single window it controls operate just fine. The entire switch panel with the three switches on it below that seems to be dead as nothing happens when anything is pressed. So I pulled that panel off thinking there was a battery in there that was dead and found it to be hard wired as seen below...
So I disconnected the three blue, red, and yellow wires, cleaned out the terminals, reconnected them, and still nothing.
Down in the basement is where the power supply is located. There are two white boxes that are plugged into a 110VAC power supply. I opened them both up and the first one looked like this:
The second one looked like this with the PCB:
I’m an engineer by trade and consider myself pretty handy but electrical stuff isn’t my expertise... Anyone have any recommendations? I’ve heard of disconnecting blue wires on window motors, rain sensor issues, bypassing power supplies, etc but don’t know where to start. Seems like to window motors are fine and I have a power supply issue. Any help would be appreciated!Read More
In a house built in 1955 there are steel casement windows, the kind that crank out to open. The house is stuccoed on the outside. The stucco turns in to meet the flange of the window. If I cut the stucco off will I expose the nailing flange of these windows or are the windows screwed or other wise fastened to the studs from inside?
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