advice on installing replacement windows

Hello,

I am considering installing replacement windows because the windows that I have now are old single pane and in general disrepair. If I were going to fix them as opposed to replace them I would be fixing sash cords and a few panes. I figure it will only cost a little more if I replace them and I might increase their energy efficiency.

My questions are: 1) Are replacement sash kits not as good as replacement windows? 2)If my house was built in 1921, do I have to worry about jamb width being compatible with the new replacement windows? 3) If I do replacement windows, do I have to remove the stool as well as the stops or do I just fit the window in over the stool? 4) Do I have to worry about taking measurements of the outside trim or does that just stay in place?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bob

 

Bob, my suggestion is to retrofit the windows rather than going the replacement sash route. Retrofits are custom made to the size you need. You will leave the stool in place. The new windows (single or double hung) will have a piece to compenstate for the slope of the stool. Simply remove the sash guides to get the sashes out, the rest of the current frame stays. The new windows slip in from the inside. Also, unless you know how to measure for retrofits, I would let a rep from the company you order the windows from do the measuring. That way, if a mistake occurs, it's their problem and THEY buy the window. If you do the measuring and a mistake is made, YOU buy the window.

 

Lefty, If the windows are in "general disrepair" might not the remainder of the parts (frame,etc.) be also? The cost of custom windows vs. special order entire window unit is comparable if not cheaper. Installation is another issue. Eventually the remainder of those windows will need to be replaced and he will have the ongoing discrepency in ages of parts. I would (and have) go with the special ordering of the entire window especially if the owner is capable of doing the installation. As a finish carpenter I don't have a problem with replacing the window, brick mould, trim, etc.. If the owner cannot do the install I would still opt for the option of getting a quote from a second window company for entire replacement. With all parts designed to work together as a unit it would be more energy efficient also.

 

Thank you both for your advice. I think I will go with the retrofit even though I share your concern about the frame being unstable. The thing I want to avoid is pulling out the frame because I have the lath and plaster walls that are practically impossible to work with with any kind of precision. I am basically looking to have nice windows with minimal framing and plaster repair.

As far as getting a quote from window companies, I have found the economy to be jacking up the prices. I am sure that I can do it myself for ALOT less.

Thanks again.

P.S. I am thinking about Crestline wood interior/vinyl exterior because they are available at Home Depot and are middle of the road compared to Marvin or Vetter. If you have any opinions, let me know.

 

1921...I knew that...(lath and plaster)...wake up Jeff! Retrofit; a WONDERFUL choice!! Yeah, 'don't want to mess with that lath and plaster (unless it's to tear an entire wall out)! As far as which brand to buy; if you're going to be in the house until its paid off you might consider going with the Marvin and do a few at a time.

 

When you measure for each of the new windows, look the frame over carefully, especially on the outside. If it's not usable, then see what it will take to repair or rebuild it. You are correct that you don't want to have to do any repair to the interior lath and plaster unless it is absolutely necessary. But you don't want to put a new window in a rotten frame, either.

Shop carefully for the windows. You MIGHT get lucky and be able to buy the ones you need off of the shelf at Home Depot, but I doubt it. A big box store is going to carry new construction windows in stock, but should be able to order retrofits. Retrofits are custom made to fit a particular opening. Shop for windows buy comparing features, warranties, construction (mitered, welded corners, not butt joints held together with screws!), festation rating stickers, and finally price. (Spending $4,000 on windows that will cut your utility bills 25% and last 25 or 30 years is cheaper than buying the $3,000 windows that will cut the bills 10% and last for 15 years.)



[Edited by lefty on 07-21-01 at 08:02]

 

Again, I can't thank you enough for your feedback.

The situation now is that I went to HomeDepot and they told me to get the Crestline they would have to order them. I have not carefully checked the features but I will. I feel that the Marvin's are a stretch at this time as I was originally hoping to do a window for $200 but after checking into it, I realized 200-300 is probably the range. I just don't want to pay too much for a name, I want the features.

I am going to take some more time but I have checked a few smaller suppliers as well as the bigger. The Crestlines are about $270. The Marvins are coming in around $380. I have to do 6 windows at this time. Do you have any suggestions?? Maybe you can't suggest a brand without a conflict of interest??? I don't know???

My only remaining question besides which window is this: I took off all the interior trim including stool and apron because I am going to strip off the paint anyway and I figured it would give me a good look at the window frame. I measured the width and came up with 30 5/8 in three places. I checked with a building square and the frame looks good. The height however is more difficult to measure accurately. I took a measurement from inside the house, frame to frame and came up with 56 1/2. Looking at windows in stock (just for dimension purposes) I see 30 1/2 by 57. Is this the dimesion I want????

My follow-up question is: If this is the size I want and I measured 56 1/2, I know that the sill slopes away from the interior, will that 1/2 inch difference fit????

I hope I have been clear with my description. I appreciate any feedback.

Thanks again!

 

Other brands you might want to look at, besides Crestline and Marvin, would include Milgard, Simington, Insulate, etc. Visit some local glass shops.

Retrofitting single and double hungs is done from the inside. With your frame opening being 30-5/8", you want the window to be 30-1/4" wide. With the inside frame-to-frame opening at 56-1/2", you want the window to be made 56-1/4" tall. Your new window should come with a filler that will sit on the sill at the outside to compensate for the slope of the sill and support the new window solidly. The guys at the glass shop can show you how that works. Might be a good idea to let them measure for the new windows, once you find a brand and a shop you like. If THEY do the measuring and make a mistake, THEY buy the mistake. If YOU do the measuring and make a mistake, YOU buy the mistake.