Replacing windows!
#1
03-21-02, 05:05 PM
Replacing windows!
I am fixing to start the next honey doo and it has to do with replacing 8 windows . 4 of them are on the front of the house which has a brick front, while the remaining are only surounded by brick mold on the house siding. They are of various sizes and I have an idea of how to replace and install a window, yet until I've been shown something it is hard for me to get started. How do I go about ordering new windows (I know ," go to Home Depot"), but I need to know how that I get the measurements from the existing windows in order to be able to specify which size I need to get. The windows have storm windows on the outside and I was wandering if I took those off if I would be able to see the rough opening, or if I could go off the finished openings measurements. The house was constructed by a contracter that I later learned my dad knew , who would take shortcuts to get the houses up. I have already ran into the squareness of the house being not up to par on other projects that I have undertaken. I am planning on selling the house in a few years and do not want to expend an awful lot in the way of the best windows but I would like the double paned and fold inward type. Any ideas on a decent window would be appreciated to. Thanks.
#2
03-21-02, 06:22 PM
I would suggest that you go to a local glass shop and start there. Brick exteriors are not the place to learn how to retrofit windows. Unless you have done a hundred or so, I would suggest that you leave this one to a pro. (This is advise coming from a person who has replace about 9,000 to 10,000 windows -- take it or leave it!)
#3
03-21-02, 06:47 PM
You mention brickmould and storm windows, so I'm gonna assume you have wood double hung windows....if not, post back and I'll modify my post to fit what you have.
The vinyl replacements take up the space where the sashes on your current windows travel up and down. You can measure inside:
on the width, measure the space the sash travels...if you have aluminum tracks, measure from aluminum to aluminum. If you house was built from the 60's on, you probably have a standard size window. They start in the 18" range, go to 20, then 24, 28, 32,36,40,44,48" on the width. You should get real close to that measurement. You can also pull a storm and the "stop" strip it was screwed to, measure that width....should be the same. I have mine built 1/4" smaller than the actual width......ie, a 36" I would order 35 3/4"
on the height, measure from the top of the area where the INSIDE sash would go IF it could go that high ( the lock probably won't let it) and down to the upper part of the sloped sill over inside the inside window stool. If you have standard windows, that number should be in the 37 1/2" range for a 38" window (3/2) or 45 1/2" for a 3/10 window or 53 1/2 for a 4/6 window and so on. BE SURE to measure the upper part of the slope, as this is the shortest distance and the new window has a FLAT bottom, and must go in the shortest point. If you get something like 37 3/4 or 53 3/4", drop back to the 1/2" and the window will go in easier, plus it comes with a "head expander" you can use if you have to.....that will allow up to a 3/4" height screw up.
Now, the next BIGGIE......when you go to HD or where ever to order, ORDER -----> EXACT SIZE<----- from your measurements...if you don't specify this, they will cut the windows about 3/4" each way and they end up too small.
BIGGIE #2....WIDTH first, and HEIGHT second....don't assume the yoyo taking your order knows anything and will correct it if you give to them wrong.....you'll own an order of windows that the measurements are backwards.
On the windows themselves, get double strength glass ( HD standard is single strength) and get LowE glass ( good stuff).
To INstall:
It's usually easier to install from the outside , less chance of disturbing inside trim, especially if painted. But if you have a stained stop inside ( the little pc that holds the sash in the track), and it will remove and reinstall easy, go that route.
From outside, take the storms off and the sash stop they were screwed to on the sides is what you chisel out. It should be a small pc of wood about 1/2" x 1/2" showing ( it actually extends back under the brick mould) Don't remove the top ( horizontal ) stop...you can stick the window in under it and actually use it as leverage to push the bottom in later.....
With the stop removed, raise the lower sash, and fold the aluminum track inward some ( it may have a couple of staples or small nails ), then jerk both sashes with tracks and all out of the hole. Watch the tracks, they're spring loaded and will zing by your ears if you turn loose. If you have something besides aluminum tracks or they mount different, you just have to figure out how to get them out. There is usually a stop at the top to separate the inner and outer sash. It is usually a 1/2 x 3/3 pc of wood set in a dado in the header...pry it out or chisel it off, or your new window won't go up high enough.
The new windows just go back in the hole. If they have the foam on the side, they will be a bit tight, but stick the top in first, catch it under the stop and leverage it in the hole up to the inside stop good and tight. The new window is screwed in with four screws thru the jambs in predrilled holes...2 on the outside sash track down low, behind that little cover, and 2 up high , also usually behind a cover.
To finish off, stuff fiberglass insulation under the new window on top the old sill. Caulk where the vinyl window meets the wood jambs and header....also run a small bead around the inside where the vinyl meets the inside stop and sill. I use aluminum trim coil to make a cap for all the outside wood and wrap onto the new window. You can rent a metal brake to do this.
That enought to get you started ?
The vinyl replacements take up the space where the sashes on your current windows travel up and down. You can measure inside:
on the width, measure the space the sash travels...if you have aluminum tracks, measure from aluminum to aluminum. If you house was built from the 60's on, you probably have a standard size window. They start in the 18" range, go to 20, then 24, 28, 32,36,40,44,48" on the width. You should get real close to that measurement. You can also pull a storm and the "stop" strip it was screwed to, measure that width....should be the same. I have mine built 1/4" smaller than the actual width......ie, a 36" I would order 35 3/4"
on the height, measure from the top of the area where the INSIDE sash would go IF it could go that high ( the lock probably won't let it) and down to the upper part of the sloped sill over inside the inside window stool. If you have standard windows, that number should be in the 37 1/2" range for a 38" window (3/2) or 45 1/2" for a 3/10 window or 53 1/2 for a 4/6 window and so on. BE SURE to measure the upper part of the slope, as this is the shortest distance and the new window has a FLAT bottom, and must go in the shortest point. If you get something like 37 3/4 or 53 3/4", drop back to the 1/2" and the window will go in easier, plus it comes with a "head expander" you can use if you have to.....that will allow up to a 3/4" height screw up.
Now, the next BIGGIE......when you go to HD or where ever to order, ORDER -----> EXACT SIZE<----- from your measurements...if you don't specify this, they will cut the windows about 3/4" each way and they end up too small.
BIGGIE #2....WIDTH first, and HEIGHT second....don't assume the yoyo taking your order knows anything and will correct it if you give to them wrong.....you'll own an order of windows that the measurements are backwards.
On the windows themselves, get double strength glass ( HD standard is single strength) and get LowE glass ( good stuff).
To INstall:
It's usually easier to install from the outside , less chance of disturbing inside trim, especially if painted. But if you have a stained stop inside ( the little pc that holds the sash in the track), and it will remove and reinstall easy, go that route.
From outside, take the storms off and the sash stop they were screwed to on the sides is what you chisel out. It should be a small pc of wood about 1/2" x 1/2" showing ( it actually extends back under the brick mould) Don't remove the top ( horizontal ) stop...you can stick the window in under it and actually use it as leverage to push the bottom in later.....
With the stop removed, raise the lower sash, and fold the aluminum track inward some ( it may have a couple of staples or small nails ), then jerk both sashes with tracks and all out of the hole. Watch the tracks, they're spring loaded and will zing by your ears if you turn loose. If you have something besides aluminum tracks or they mount different, you just have to figure out how to get them out. There is usually a stop at the top to separate the inner and outer sash. It is usually a 1/2 x 3/3 pc of wood set in a dado in the header...pry it out or chisel it off, or your new window won't go up high enough.
The new windows just go back in the hole. If they have the foam on the side, they will be a bit tight, but stick the top in first, catch it under the stop and leverage it in the hole up to the inside stop good and tight. The new window is screwed in with four screws thru the jambs in predrilled holes...2 on the outside sash track down low, behind that little cover, and 2 up high , also usually behind a cover.
To finish off, stuff fiberglass insulation under the new window on top the old sill. Caulk where the vinyl window meets the wood jambs and header....also run a small bead around the inside where the vinyl meets the inside stop and sill. I use aluminum trim coil to make a cap for all the outside wood and wrap onto the new window. You can rent a metal brake to do this.
That enought to get you started ?
