Blackout panels on traverse rod or need to custom order?
#1
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Blackout panels on traverse rod or need to custom order?
My husband works graveyard shift & needs blackout drapes that will block out the light so he can sleep during the day. We're looking at 2 options:
1) Blackout panels on a traverse rod- will the light come through between the panels on a traverse rod or will the rod keep them together? This is a MUCH cheaper option (about 1/5 of the price!) But we want to make sure it will work!
2) Custom drapes on a traverse rod- this will probably work, but 5x the price!!
Anyone have experience with panels on a traverse rod?
There's a "sale" on the custom drapes so we have to decide right away, but of course, custom cannot be returned!
Thanks!!
1) Blackout panels on a traverse rod- will the light come through between the panels on a traverse rod or will the rod keep them together? This is a MUCH cheaper option (about 1/5 of the price!) But we want to make sure it will work!
2) Custom drapes on a traverse rod- this will probably work, but 5x the price!!
Anyone have experience with panels on a traverse rod?
There's a "sale" on the custom drapes so we have to decide right away, but of course, custom cannot be returned!
Thanks!!
#2
Hi and welcome to the forum!
Which panels were you looking at? Can you post a link here so I can see them? What size is your window/s and what size are the panels?
If the panels are pleated (i.e. pinch pleats) they will work on a traverse rod and they need to have overlaps at the lead edge (so they overlap rather than just meet) and they'll need to have a return (so the outside edge goes to the wall) in order to block light at the sides.
Custom or semi-custom may the only way to get the correct size (both width and length).
Altho boarding up the windows is the only way to get true blackout, consider also hanging blackout shades under and a boxed cornice on top, to be more effective. There will still be light coming in thru the top of the draperies without a cornice, but at least hanging a shade will help.
Which panels were you looking at? Can you post a link here so I can see them? What size is your window/s and what size are the panels?
If the panels are pleated (i.e. pinch pleats) they will work on a traverse rod and they need to have overlaps at the lead edge (so they overlap rather than just meet) and they'll need to have a return (so the outside edge goes to the wall) in order to block light at the sides.
Custom or semi-custom may the only way to get the correct size (both width and length).
Altho boarding up the windows is the only way to get true blackout, consider also hanging blackout shades under and a boxed cornice on top, to be more effective. There will still be light coming in thru the top of the draperies without a cornice, but at least hanging a shade will help.
#3
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Thanks!
Thank you for replying. Here's the panels we're considering:
JCPenney : Mystique Interlined Faux-Silk by Chris Madden®
or these:
JCPenney : Supreme Thermal Back-tab Window Coordinates
The panels are 54" wide. The windows we're covering are 11' (OR 132" wide).
Thanks!
JCPenney : Mystique Interlined Faux-Silk by Chris Madden®
or these:
JCPenney : Supreme Thermal Back-tab Window Coordinates
The panels are 54" wide. The windows we're covering are 11' (OR 132" wide).
Thanks!
#4
OK, neither of those panels will work on a traverse rod. Both are rodpockets, which mean they have a pocket at the top that gets shirred on a rod. Also neither of them are blackout lined.
That's a pretty wide window and you'll have a problem finding readymades in that size, not to mention a rod in that size.
Unless you never plan to or want to open them up, you'll need stackback space, so they can clear the glass, so you're looking at a rod about 170" long and I don't think you'll find one this size in a readymade, but not sure.
You need to look for pinch pleats which will be hung with drapery pins, and if you get a 170" rod, the draperies need to be at least 184" finished width for a pair, which will include the overlap, returns and some ease.
When it says "thermal" that isn't the same as "blackout". It will say blackout in the description.
Another thing, unless you don't care about looks, you'll need a valance or cornice to cover a plain traverse rod because they're just plain ugly.
A decorative traverse rod will be better, but will cost more.
btw, they're going to be really, really heavy, so make sure you have enough center supports to hold them up.
That's a pretty wide window and you'll have a problem finding readymades in that size, not to mention a rod in that size.
Unless you never plan to or want to open them up, you'll need stackback space, so they can clear the glass, so you're looking at a rod about 170" long and I don't think you'll find one this size in a readymade, but not sure.
You need to look for pinch pleats which will be hung with drapery pins, and if you get a 170" rod, the draperies need to be at least 184" finished width for a pair, which will include the overlap, returns and some ease.
When it says "thermal" that isn't the same as "blackout". It will say blackout in the description.
Another thing, unless you don't care about looks, you'll need a valance or cornice to cover a plain traverse rod because they're just plain ugly.
A decorative traverse rod will be better, but will cost more.
btw, they're going to be really, really heavy, so make sure you have enough center supports to hold them up.
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Thank you, thank you!!
Thank you so much for your reply. Looks like we'll be going with the custom order. We'll definitely make sure we take all of that into consideration when we order the drapes.
Thanks again!!
Thanks again!!
#6
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one thing to consider
a 10$ roller shade from ace or lowes that is cut at the right width and mounted properly will usually provide more black out than a 200$ custom drape. The trick is to cut it 2'' wider than your molding and to mount it on your wall above the window. mounting it on the wall will force the black out material flush against your window and the 1'' extra on each side will help eliminates any light that may sneak through.
this option allows to then choose whatever drape you would like without worrying about how well it will keep light out.
a 10$ roller shade from ace or lowes that is cut at the right width and mounted properly will usually provide more black out than a 200$ custom drape. The trick is to cut it 2'' wider than your molding and to mount it on your wall above the window. mounting it on the wall will force the black out material flush against your window and the 1'' extra on each side will help eliminates any light that may sneak through.
this option allows to then choose whatever drape you would like without worrying about how well it will keep light out.
#7
A $200 custom drapery for that size window and $10 for a shade that's 134" wide?
H E L L O ! ! !
From what planet, LOL!
H E L L O ! ! !
From what planet, LOL!