Rust & Humidifier


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Old 12-09-05, 07:01 PM
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Rust & Humidifier

The lady who owned the house before me had this cheapo drum-roll humidifier attached to the return stack. Well, it apparently leaked many times judging by rust, scales, etc. on the metal itself.

My questions are:

1. Is replacing a humidifer an DIY job (for a novice) or would it be better to hire some one?

2. I have a Trane XL 80 Model UD100R963A Dual stage gas furnace. Which humidifer is best suited for my furnace (humidifer should run whenever the fan is running?)

3. What is the best way to clean up my rust/mineral deposits/etc?
 
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Old 12-09-05, 08:39 PM
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If you are petty handy, it can be done DIY.

I would remove the blower cover to make sure there has been no damaged to the blower area, and see if the ductwork is still sound.

If it's good and sound, then you can use CLR to clean it up, make sure you rinse it off well.

Any by pass flow-though unit will work.

Do you know how it's controling it now?

There is two you can control the humidifer... but let us know how it's being contolred now.
 
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Old 12-10-05, 05:08 PM
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I think the controller is mounted on the top of the return stack

(A = thermostat; B= Humidifer controller; C = View of the HVAC with humidifer in blue; D = something called Sail Switch mounted on the lower part of the return stack; E = furnace controller unit)



Anyhow, I spent some time drawing up the wiring diagram. May be you can make some sense out of this?

 
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Old 12-10-05, 06:41 PM
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Great Photo.. Looks like they are using the furnace 24 volts transformer to run the current humidifer.

On the board, do you see HUM or EAC on it?

That humidifer is OLD!
 
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Old 12-11-05, 07:58 AM
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The board, White Rodgers Model 50A51-405 D340021P01 REPLACE with CNT 1308, has both EAC and HUM (2 connections each, Hot and Neutral).



When I traced the wires, hot wires go directly to the power switch shared by the furnace; neutral wires are connected to the blower motor?

If I were to purchase a Honeywell unit from Home Depot (around $200), would it allow me to run the humidifer when the blower is on with the current wiring setup?
 
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Old 12-11-05, 10:39 AM
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Ok, turn off the main breaker/fuse for the furnace.. Undo the switch cover or on backside where the wires all comes in for power on the box that this wire go up to.. There should be the wires that are capped/tapped off.. I'd suggest to wire the new transfromer on the EAC wire. You could do the HUM one, but that only powers up when the HEAT mode comes on.. Where the EAC one powers up anytime the blower is running.


When you buy a new humidifer at HD, there is two box.. One is the humidfier and stat itself.. That would be the only thing you'll need..

In the other box is the wires, sail switch, duct, starter collier/damper, water line (you already have.), Drain hose ( you can buy the hose itself), Transformer you'll need (they are not sold alone. YOu may have to go to Radio Shack and 120/24 volts transformer there.
 
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Old 12-11-05, 09:37 PM
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Thanks Jay. Since I am having such difficulty with my t-stat, I am going to hold off on installing the humdifier for now.....
 
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Old 12-12-05, 06:59 AM
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A quick queston..


Have you removed the wires from the control board from the old humidifer?


If it's still hooked up, undo it.. It maybe why it's accting up???
 
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Old 12-12-05, 09:07 AM
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That's a good suggestion. Since the humidifer controller was in the "OFF" position, I naturally didn't think twice about it.

What is curious is that the thermostat is in the single stage and producing heat.

When I go home tonight, I will disconnect the unit. I will update you on the other forum.

Thanks!

Kev
 
 

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