Duct Question (with pictures!)


  #1  
Old 05-24-07, 01:04 PM
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Duct Question (with pictures!)

Hi all:
I'm remodeling the basement, and the register was stuffed full of insulation up until now.
1- how to I put in a damper? I bought one, but the pipe is a 4' straight run to the furnace. Every single one of my other ducts has one - lol - but this one doesn't and I don't want all the heat and a/c blasting into the basement!! I really have no clue - disconnect from the furnace end and poke it in there? or drill two pilots?

2- was at HD today, no one around to ask. Why/what is this weird duct thing?

Why does it have as much room enclosed on the bottom as it has for the register? Should it be that way?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/ginamarina/oddznendz/DSC03699.jpg

Or do I use the new one I bought?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/ginamarina/oddznendz/DSC03700.jpg

Or do I pipe this down lower for the basement and clear the box I have to build around my funny duct pipe in the ceiling?

thanks for any and all advice! This project is taking forever

G
 
  #2  
Old 05-24-07, 02:18 PM
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Is this a supply duct or a return duct? It looks from the picture to be huge if it is a supply duct.

I don't have a clue as to why the big box on the end.

I can offer a couple of suggestions if you tell us the answer about supply or return, what size room you are trying to heat, the amount if insulation in this room, if there are any more ducts and probably a few other questions that will come to mind after you answer the above.

I'll even let you know how to install the damper.
 
  #3  
Old 05-24-07, 02:47 PM
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Umm. It's not a cold-air return. It blows right out of the furnace, so I guess it would be a supply. It's the shortest duct in the house, just crosses the wall into the other side of the basement. It's a 6" diameter duct coming out to a 12x6" or so hole for the register. The room is about 12x25'. It's not overly imperative that it maintain super temperature, but right now the basement has no heat at all with that insulation shoved in the pipe

That box thing below the register opening is a mystery to me, but that metal thing is way more solid than the one from HD. They've obviously made them 10X thinner since 1950! I can frame it within wood if it would be better to replace the odd thing. There is no hole on the other side for a register or anything, so it's a mystery as to what that compartment was for. I didn't find any stacks of $100s in it...

This is the only source of heat for the basement. There was once a room here, but before I bought the house it was raised (not razed) and the basement walls were replaced due to stupidity or water problems. The stud wall that sits on 2 rows of thin cinder-blocks remains and I'm basically creating a room once again. The ceiling is all-clear for acoustic tiles except I'll have to make one little ramp for that duct to the right of the stuff in question.

Hopefully that's a start without boring the h3ll out of anyone
 
  #4  
Old 05-24-07, 08:04 PM
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What I would do is remove the duct from the furnace plenum (the box all the supply ducts connect to) and remove the existing box between the studs.

Get a "starting collar" (big box store) for a six inch duct and also the damper plate. You remove the wing nut from the end of the damper and stick it in the starting collar with the "axle" going through the two holes in the starting collar. Replace the wing nut and lock the starting collar into the round shape. Install the collar into the plenum and bend the tabs over inside the plenum. Use foil (not cloth) duct tape to seal the collar both inside and outside.

Run ducting out and then using an elbow turn it down close to the back side of your (proposed) wall with another elbow to connect it to the register boot that you have previously purchased and framed into the stud space.

Your duct will probably not be sufficient to keep an even temperature throughout the room but it will be much better than nothing. If you are real ambitious you may want to think about running the duct all the way to the outside wall before terminating it with the register. The addition of a return air duct as far as possible from the supply duct (and also high on the wall or in the ceiling) will make for better heating.

Do not try to install the damper, properly called a balancing damper, at the register, It will be quite noisy in that position.
 
  #5  
Old 05-25-07, 08:44 AM
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Furd, you're a lifesaver!

Ok, so I should take the 6" pipe out of where it is stuck right now? There are like tabs that hold it in place.

Then buy a "starting collar" to use instead. Not sure what that is, but I'm sure they have it. Then the damper.

What exactly do you mean by turning it down close to the back side of the wall? Right now it's a straight shot. Do you mean lower the register closer to the floor with the elbow?

If I do that should I convert the 6" round duct to a flat one at the wall studs? by flat I mean that rectangular stuff that fits between the studs. Then I could exchange the register boot for something else. I'm obviously confused

I can put in a cold air return at the far side of the room. Well, I can tap into one through the ceiling before I put the tiles up. There are a couple places that are sealed off for the upstairs for that. Honestly I didn't know that having a return actually helped the room stay heated. I'm obviously a newbie at this.

I will await further instruction and install my light boxes today. Thank you so much for your assistance!!

Gina
 
  #6  
Old 05-25-07, 12:07 PM
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Yes, straighten the tabs of the existing duct on the inside of the plenum and remove that duct.

A "starting collar" is simply an easier and better way of connecting the duct to the flat side of the plenum. It has tabs on one end, then a rolled "collar" a straight section with two holes for the axle of the damper and then a crimped end for the first section of round duct. It is sold with the ends not connected to allow the insertion of the damper and then you push the ends together to make it round. Insert the tabbed end into the plenum until the rolled collar is tight against the outside of the plenum and then bend the tabs over to hold it in place.

Here is a picture of a starting collar.

http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewcategory.cfm?categoryID=168

The supply air should be near the floor so you need to use two 90 degree elbows to first turn the horizontal duct from the furnace towards the floor and the second 90 to turn it through the wall. Use straight duct inbetween as needed. You could use rectangular duct but I find round to be easier for someone (like me) who does not do sheet metal work for a living. If you choose to use rectangular duct they make starting collars for this also.

Here is site (pdf file) that has a wealth of information on duct work.

http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related/Ductwork.pdf
 
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Old 05-25-07, 01:08 PM
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"Insert the tabbed end into the plenum until the rolled collar is tight against the outside of the plenum and then bend the tabs over to hold it in place."

...I just answered my own question - lol - I stick my hand through the hole to bend the tabs down. not from the inside of the plenum, which I can't access

Now, the starting collar is where I should put the damper? or right in the first few inches of the round duct? I bought a damper and it has one prong that is solid and the other is on a spring, so I'm assuming I'll drill 2 holes.

off to the store again. I managed to put up the first piece of drywall this morning, and the hole I cut Iwith the dremel) for the outlet was in the right spot - small victory.

Gina
 
  #8  
Old 05-25-07, 02:31 PM
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Get a starting collar that already has the holes for the damper. The picture I linked to doesn't have the holes.

If you cannot find a starting collar that has holes they drill holes in the duct close to the furnace.

You do not want the damper any closer to the outlet register than you can because it will create noise. The ductwork between the damper and the outlet register will help to reduce that noise.
 
  #9  
Old 05-29-07, 09:34 PM
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Smile

Thank you so much! I ended up putting in the 90 and converting the round to "oval" and ran it down the wall. Looks super, was able to re-use the round pipe - I cleaned it well (yuck). I also realized that they sold me a damper without the wing nut, that will help a bit

Thanks again for your help!
 
  #10  
Old 05-30-07, 10:59 AM
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You're welcome and thanks for letting us know about your success.
 
 

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