Fresh Air Damper Recommendation?
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Fresh Air Damper Recommendation?
Jay,
You mentioned previously that you use the Honeywell IAQ to control a fresh air damper. I am thinking abot putting in one as well.
My fresh air vent is tied into the return duct and is currently uncontrolled (always open). So when I set the fan to 'circ' 24/7, I am constantly drawing cold air into the house.
My old furnace used to draw combustion air from the basement, but the new furnace has (2) direct vent pipes and is no longer drawing combustion air from the inside, so there is less need for make up air.
Given that I already have the IAQ control, what is the most cost effective solution to control the amount of fresh air intake? I was looking at the HONEYWELL Y8150A1009 Fresh Air Ventilation System. It comes with its own control, which I don't need.
You mentioned previously that you use the Honeywell IAQ to control a fresh air damper. I am thinking abot putting in one as well.
My fresh air vent is tied into the return duct and is currently uncontrolled (always open). So when I set the fan to 'circ' 24/7, I am constantly drawing cold air into the house.
My old furnace used to draw combustion air from the basement, but the new furnace has (2) direct vent pipes and is no longer drawing combustion air from the inside, so there is less need for make up air.
Given that I already have the IAQ control, what is the most cost effective solution to control the amount of fresh air intake? I was looking at the HONEYWELL Y8150A1009 Fresh Air Ventilation System. It comes with its own control, which I don't need.
Last edited by hvacnewbie; 01-15-08 at 09:33 AM.
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Thanks, Ed,
I have also thought about this option. If I put in a heavy gagae damper that can only be pulled open during high heat or cool, and remained closed during air circulation with low fan speed, the problem would be mostly solved.
I have also thought about this option. If I put in a heavy gagae damper that can only be pulled open during high heat or cool, and remained closed during air circulation with low fan speed, the problem would be mostly solved.
#4
Yeah, I have the control as well, and just laying on my shelf in the garage.. I"ll see if I can find the damper itself for ya.
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Jay,
I did find the part number of the damper itself (ARD6), and that (or something equivalent) is what I'll be looking to get.
How did you set it up in the advanced settings of the IAQ?
BTW, I could never get the LED to work to indicate 2nd stage heat or fan on. No matter what I jumper 'L' to, I get a flashing 'Err 40' message which, I looked it up in the manual, means 'compressor not turned on when it should be'. Do you have a fix for this?
I did find the part number of the damper itself (ARD6), and that (or something equivalent) is what I'll be looking to get.
How did you set it up in the advanced settings of the IAQ?
BTW, I could never get the LED to work to indicate 2nd stage heat or fan on. No matter what I jumper 'L' to, I get a flashing 'Err 40' message which, I looked it up in the manual, means 'compressor not turned on when it should be'. Do you have a fix for this?
#6
How did you set it up in the advanced settings of the IAQ?
BTW, I could never get the LED to work to indicate 2nd stage heat or fan on. No matter what I jumper 'L' to, I get a flashing 'Err 40' message which, I looked it up in the manual, means 'compressor not turned on when it should be'. Do you have a fix for this?
#7
Ok, This is how I have my IAQ set up for the damper.
#400- 2
I don't want the damper opening in the over night hours when my t=stat is in set back.. I have the fan on 24/7, don't want to cool the house anymore than I have to.
#401- 1
It just the two of us, even thou the house is listed as 3 bedrooms, no point to bring in anymore than I have to.
#402- 13
Depends on how many sq ft. your home is. Set it to your home size.
#403- 80
I didn't have a meter to check on how much fresh air is coming in the pipe, since the blower runs at a lower speed in fan on only, figured 80 was a good number.
#404- 50
#405- 1
#406- 1
#400- 2
I don't want the damper opening in the over night hours when my t=stat is in set back.. I have the fan on 24/7, don't want to cool the house anymore than I have to.
#401- 1
It just the two of us, even thou the house is listed as 3 bedrooms, no point to bring in anymore than I have to.
#402- 13
Depends on how many sq ft. your home is. Set it to your home size.
#403- 80
I didn't have a meter to check on how much fresh air is coming in the pipe, since the blower runs at a lower speed in fan on only, figured 80 was a good number.
#404- 50
#405- 1
#406- 1
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Thanks, Jay.
#401 - I, too, have only one occupied bedroom in the house (4 total).
I figured that my answer to #403 would only be around 30 CFM:
total ventilation air flow x (fresh air intake openning / total area of all return registers).
For now, before I put in the motorized damper, I have turned off air circulation during 'sleep' to avoid drawing too much cold air in while in set back.
Are you meeting the ASHRAE standard at 50% setting for #404? I wonder what % setting would pass given my #403 number. I'll try that when I get home. If I have to set it to 100% (unlimited) to meet the standard, I may not need any damper on the intake.
#401 - I, too, have only one occupied bedroom in the house (4 total).
I figured that my answer to #403 would only be around 30 CFM:
total ventilation air flow x (fresh air intake openning / total area of all return registers).
For now, before I put in the motorized damper, I have turned off air circulation during 'sleep' to avoid drawing too much cold air in while in set back.
Are you meeting the ASHRAE standard at 50% setting for #404? I wonder what % setting would pass given my #403 number. I'll try that when I get home. If I have to set it to 100% (unlimited) to meet the standard, I may not need any damper on the intake.
Last edited by hvacnewbie; 01-18-08 at 10:29 AM.
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Jay,
As I suspected, my fresh air inlet pipe (2.5" round) does not seem to bring in enough air to pass the ASHRAE requirement even when it is open all the time, if I am interpreting the IAQ display correctly. Do you think I still need to worry about putting in a damper?
As I suspected, my fresh air inlet pipe (2.5" round) does not seem to bring in enough air to pass the ASHRAE requirement even when it is open all the time, if I am interpreting the IAQ display correctly. Do you think I still need to worry about putting in a damper?
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Honeywell make a 24v damper that will work with your controller I don't have a part number for you but your local supply house will know what your talking about I don't know what size system you have but you probably need at least a 6" damper
#12
ARD6 is the number.
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We live in S.E. Michigan (sub. of detroit). The house is 2200 sq ft. I have a 80k BTU furnace and a 3 ton AC. The furnace has its own combustion intake and exhaust pipes.
We have a high powered range hood that moves a lof of air to the outside (wife is a terrific cook and cares a lot about cooking odor). We also have 2.5 bathrooms with individual exhausts, a gas dryer that is used twice a week, and a gas fireplace (never been used). So there is need for make-up air in the living space of the house.
The fresh air pipe in the basement is larger (insulated 6" flex pipe). But what comes out of the wall on the outside is just a tiny 2.5" PVC pipe that bends down and then goes into the ground (condensate drain?), with a side branch in the middle of it that acts as the air inlet.
If necessary, I can probably enlarge the wall openning and run a 6" metal pipe through. That would give me roughly 100 - 120 CFM worth of air flow. Do I have to worry about the condensate drain?
From experimenting with the IAQ, I found we need at least a 70 CFM intake (#403), venting 55% of the time (#404) to get a 'pass' on the ASHRAE standard.
We have a high powered range hood that moves a lof of air to the outside (wife is a terrific cook and cares a lot about cooking odor). We also have 2.5 bathrooms with individual exhausts, a gas dryer that is used twice a week, and a gas fireplace (never been used). So there is need for make-up air in the living space of the house.
The fresh air pipe in the basement is larger (insulated 6" flex pipe). But what comes out of the wall on the outside is just a tiny 2.5" PVC pipe that bends down and then goes into the ground (condensate drain?), with a side branch in the middle of it that acts as the air inlet.
If necessary, I can probably enlarge the wall openning and run a 6" metal pipe through. That would give me roughly 100 - 120 CFM worth of air flow. Do I have to worry about the condensate drain?
From experimenting with the IAQ, I found we need at least a 70 CFM intake (#403), venting 55% of the time (#404) to get a 'pass' on the ASHRAE standard.
Last edited by hvacnewbie; 01-19-08 at 09:02 AM.
#14
We have a high powered range hood that moves a lof of air to the outside (wife is a terrific cook and cares a lot about cooking odor). We also have 2.5 bathrooms with individual exhausts, a gas dryer that is used twice a week, and a gas fireplace (never been used). So there is need for make-up air in the living space of the house.
The fresh air pipe in the basement is larger (insulated 6" flex pipe). But what comes out of the wall on the outside is just a tiny 2.5" PVC pipe that bends down and then goes into the ground (condensate drain?), with a side branch in the middle of it that acts as the air inlet.
From experimenting with the IAQ, I found we need at least a 70 CFM intake (#403), venting 55% of the time (#404) to get a 'pass' on the ASHRAE standard.
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Jay,
I want to kick myself for being so dumb. What I thought was the fresh air vent was actually the sump pump pipe. The fresh air vent is quite a distance away from it at the other end of the deck. Both are hidden under the deck and therefore hard to get a good look at them. But I don't know how I could have confused them because they are so far apart!
Anyway, what I do see on the fresh air vent is that the 6" pipe has a rectangular (roughly 3x10) intake openning. So I should be able to get enough air flow from it to warrant putting in the ARD6 damper.
Thanks, Jay/Mike/Ed, for all your help!
I want to kick myself for being so dumb. What I thought was the fresh air vent was actually the sump pump pipe. The fresh air vent is quite a distance away from it at the other end of the deck. Both are hidden under the deck and therefore hard to get a good look at them. But I don't know how I could have confused them because they are so far apart!
Anyway, what I do see on the fresh air vent is that the 6" pipe has a rectangular (roughly 3x10) intake openning. So I should be able to get enough air flow from it to warrant putting in the ARD6 damper.
Thanks, Jay/Mike/Ed, for all your help!
#18
LOL I was really starting to wonder what in the heck you had there!? Glad to turn out the 2.5" pipe isn't for fresh air!
So yeah you should be good with that, and adding the damper to the home.
So yeah you should be good with that, and adding the damper to the home.
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Thanks.