Carrier exhaust blower wheel


  #1  
Old 10-05-08, 08:29 AM
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Unhappy Carrier exhaust blower wheel

I'm trying to replace the blower exhaust wheel on my Carrier heater. There are 2 set screws holding the wheel on the motor shaft that I can't remove because of rust. I've tried PB blaster and liquid wrench but the inset screws won't budge a bit. My next thought is to drill them out, but there is little room for the drill since the outer casing prevents proper drilling. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to buy the whole exhaust assembly since it's really expensive (over $400).
Thanks,
Stan
 

Last edited by sscarano; 10-05-08 at 08:37 AM. Reason: make more readable
  #2  
Old 10-05-08, 09:03 AM
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You can heat it with a torch! This will expand the metal, hit it with PB one more time let it sit for a couple of hours then give it a try.
 
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Old 10-05-08, 09:56 AM
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Thank you airman.1994. I'll try the heating idea.
Regards
Stan
 
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Old 10-05-08, 09:58 AM
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Sorry to say you're stuck (no pun ).

Because of the acidic nature of of ith flue fumes they bond the metal together (shaft and blower wheel) worse than any rust could.

The motor won't be servicable even if you did manage to free it up. There would be damage to the shaft from the force you would need to seperate the wheel from it.

The motor cost is one of the reasons I won't install the brand you have.

Sorry.
 
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Old 10-05-08, 10:17 AM
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hvaclover,
Thanks, do you think it would be worth trying to have some pro cut it off with an acetylene torch for a few bucks?.
I don't have the money for a new assembly.
 
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Old 10-05-08, 10:47 AM
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you would end up ruining the shaft and/the wheel from the heat.

Don't think you got much to work with sorry.

A long shot (and a bigone too) would be to find a motor rebuilding shop.

See if they can rewind the motor. They would be relunctant but ask them seriously any way. They might do it or if you tell them your situation give you a break on a new motor.

FYI I used to use a dremel to grind off the old wheel to save the mounting. Then it I would scour the area to get a replacement motor. The wheel you buy OEM.

You did not hear that fom me
 
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Old 10-05-08, 01:41 PM
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Thanks hvaclover for all your responses. I'll have to think some more on this. The motor is fine, it's just that the wheel has corroded and making noise when it's running. Carrier has a poor design for attaching the blower wheel to the shaft since it's so difficult to take off and replace.
Regards,
Stan
 
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Old 10-05-08, 02:01 PM
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It's not just Carrier that does it, all the induced draft blowers have this fault.
 
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Old 10-12-08, 08:30 AM
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To all,
I finally removed the blower wheel from the motor shaft, but it wasn't an easy job. If you want to save yourself several hundreds of dollars by not having to buy the whole exhaust assembly and have the time, here's how I did it. Remember that the motor was working fine on my unit, which is really your high priced item on the assembly.
First, make sure you can buy the replacement wheel since Carrier may be reluctant to sell you one. Next, disconnect all the wiring and take out the complete exhaust assembly. Turn
the assembly so the wheel is facing up and stabilize the unit so you can use your electric drill on it. Buy yourself a couple of good metal drills for hard metal since the center ring is really tough steel. Frequently stop and put some oil on bit since they wear down real quick because of the heat generated. I used a 3/8" drill bit, but I think 5/16" will work better on the first drilling pass. You may need 2 or 3 drill bits for the entire job. This may cost you $20-30 for some good drill bits, but it's better than paying $400-$500. Make sure you clamp the wheel down so it doesn't turn when you're drilling. Now drill 2 holes down to the base of the ring where each of the inset screw holes intersect the motor shaft. Make sure you position the drill bit so you don't take any metal off the motor shaft and the hole will break the screw path. Be careful as you approach the bottom, since you don't want to drill through the assembly casing. Once both holes are drilled out and you can see the exposed shaft, you can start carefully drilling out the light metal around the center ring to remove the wheel. You should now only have the center ring left on the shaft, which was the real problem in the first place. Take a hacksaw with a new blade on it and start cutting down real close to the shaft and between the 2 drilled holes. You'll have to grip the ring with say a small Vi-script or pliers when cutting the ring. This may take some time and a strong arm, but when you get to the base of the ring, both halves should break off the shaft it was fused to. That's how I did it and no damage was done to the shaft. This method worked for me, but do this at your own risk. I do not take any responsibility for any injuries or any other costs you might have using this method to remove the wheel.

Regards,
S.
 

Last edited by sscarano; 10-12-08 at 09:18 AM. Reason: add disclaimer
 

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