Re-route Furnace & H2O Hheater Exhaust Vent

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Old 10-30-08, 07:20 AM
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Re-route Furnace & H2O Hheater Exhaust Vent

I'm finishing my basement and I want to re-route my furnace and water heater flue pipe. Both pipes are single wall and jut out into the room where they meet in a Y. They then join to a double wall type B pipe which goes to a 90 degree elbow (also type B) and then up through the house.

Because it juts out into the open space and the farthest point out is a single wall pipe, it restricts the finished room significantly. There's room to reroute it so I can have a larger room.

My question is what do I need to know to reroute the pipe? It doesn't look hard, the pipes just screw together, but I know there are some standards that I'd need to know. What is the minimum slope for a vent pipe? When attaching sections of type B pipe, do they just screw together or is there some kind of sealant that needs to be used? What about attaching the single wall to the type B? Any limit on the number of bends in the pipe? Anything else I need to know?

I know that doing this wrong can lead to dangerous CO in the home, so I want to make sure I know what I'm doing.

Thanks,
 
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Old 10-30-08, 07:15 PM
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you dont need sealant..if you do it, try and maintain a slope of some kind..1/4 per ft...try not to run more than 5 ft horizontal..if you need a little more than that keep the riser of the unit as high ass possible 12 in or more ...if your furn is draft assist tie it in above the tank and maintain a high riser off the tank...IMPORTANT...when your done turn them both on and roll up a piece of paper and lite it on fire then blow it out and place it at the top of the tank where the draft connector is and observe the smoke ,if it goes up the flu your good, if it takes more than 30 to 45 seconds to start drafting ,your not good..if your furn is natural draft ,get a new one its old!!also test it in different weather just to be sure..low presure out side can affect venting..b-vent requires 1 in clearance to combustables....c-vent requires 6 in clearance unless you have a heat sheild of metal with 1 in clearance behind to combustable and 1 in between the c-vent and the shield...good luck
 
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Old 10-30-08, 07:46 PM
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Well, the house is about 14 years old, built in 1994-1995 and there's already more than 5' of horizontal, more like 10'. There should be a little less when I'm done, but I've got to put in a couple more elbows to get it out of the way.

What is the 'riser of the unit'?

Not sure what draft assist or natural draft is.

Thanks for the tip on the smoke, that'll help a lot.
 
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Old 10-30-08, 07:56 PM
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the riser is the first piece of pipe off the unit..draft assist is a fan assisted combustion blower or power vent...natural draft is well,, natural like your tank..pilot lite cheers
 
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Old 02-16-09, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tin chucker View Post
...c-vent requires 6 in clearance unless you have a heat sheild of metal with 1 in clearance behind to combustible and 1 in between the c-vent and the shield...
OK, I got this done some time ago, it drafts well and I got a CO detector as well just to be safe. I had it in the basement for a time and it never read more than zero.

I've gotten my basement walls up and everything looks great, except that I realized that I missed the main PVC plumbing drain pipe as a combustible. I've got proper clearance to the new walls, but only about 3" to that pipe from a section of C vent. It sounds like I can shield it, but how? I can't exactly screw a metal shield to the drain.

I'm ready for framing inspection on the basement walls and I need to get this dealt with first so I don't raise a red flag there. Any ideas?
 
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