HRV install question

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-05-11, 07:59 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
HRV install question

Hello,
I had a Fantech vhr2005r installed over the weekend. Prior to installation I was able to control the furnace fan being on or off via the thermostat upstairs. Once this unit was hooked up it is now always on and I have no control any longer.

It was wired according to there manual (page 18). Here is a link to it and I can paste the text just below this too:
VHR2005R - Fantech VHR2005R - VHR Series Heat Recovery Ventilator w/ Recirculation Defrost, 6" Top Ports (up to 5,000 Sq. Ft.)

For a Furnace Connected to a Cooling System:
• On some newer furnaces and older thermostats, energizing the R and G terminals at the furnace has the effect of energizing the Y at the thermostat and thereby turning on the cooling system. If you identify this type of thermostat, you must use the “Alternate Furnace Interlock Wiring”.

It had to be wired above as the other method in the manual resultd int he a/c always on.

I was speaking with someone at fantech and they said I need to do the following:

That being the case we need to wire it completely different. You will need to use an END RELAY[ dry set of contacts] once electricity is supplied from the furnace it will close the relay and the other side of the relay will be hooked to the + and – of the DEHUM terminal.

Can anyone explain to me what this means as I don't understand it. Do i buy a relay from some place and wire it to the unit and the furnace some how or?? There i a Dehumid terminal on the HRV which is what I am assuming he means here. Any help would be great.

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 04-05-11, 06:00 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
in reading the manual and your description it looks as though you have the N.O.(normally open) and N.C.(normally closed) wires switched which would apply power to the blower circuit on the furnace all the time unless the HRV had a call to run.

The HRV has the relay inside it according the instructions and I'm unsure why the fantech support guy told you the info he did.

Check those terminals and wiring! make sure G from furnace is connected to COM on HRV.... R from furnace to N.O. on HRV and G from T-stat to N.C. on HRV
 
  #3  
Old 04-05-11, 07:29 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
hvactechfw thanks for the help and response.

I went down and double checked that i have the wires as you mention and that is how i have them installed. There is a dehum terminal with a plus and minus and I am not sure why he references that? Any other ideas why it might be doing this?
 
  #4  
Old 04-05-11, 07:44 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
are you sure the stat is not set to fan on instead of auto? just to rule this out.
 
  #5  
Old 04-05-11, 07:51 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
do this..... remove the wire on G at the furnace and see if the fan operates after you do this? if it stops then try swapping the NC and NO wires on the HRV. if it continues then something is wrong inside furnace.
 
  #6  
Old 04-06-11, 05:51 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I double checked and the fan was on auto and not on.

I swapped the wire as you recommended. here is the result.

I put the G wire back on to test the below as when i removed it the fan wouldn't start.

HRV is set to low fan speed.

Thermostat is set to auto:
HRV on, furnace fan off. If i adjust the temperature on the thermostat to fire up the burner to see if it turns the fan on and it did and the HRV was still on.

Thermostat set to on:
HRV on, furnace fan on.

The HRV still does not turn off.

Can you tell me what those wires do? What do you think might be wrong with the furnace? d

I think the instructions said it was recommended that I have this set to low or med and not standby. throughout all the testing i have had it set to low.
 
  #7  
Old 04-06-11, 05:54 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Is there a sensor on the hrv to turn it off based on the air quality coming into the unit? wondering if my air might suck that bad it is running that often?

However, this seems a little odd as it has been running steady now for 4 days. thankfully it isn't below zero.
 
  #8  
Old 04-06-11, 11:58 AM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
I think it should be set to standby.....With HRV on low its going to call for fan on from the furnace all the time; hence it is constantly exchanging air regardless of conditions inside or out. I don't believe there is a sensor of air quality in or out Only a control. Speaking of controls which one are you using? are you using a separate dehumidistat? A lot could probably be answered by knowing which control you have. There are many different controls offered for your HRV.
 
  #9  
Old 04-07-11, 08:19 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I believe i may have tried the standby mode initially but the unit never seemed to turn on. I will try it again. I wish there was a way to see if the unit came on while i was out as may checking to see if it runs in the first 5 minutes isn't giving it enough time? I don't know if it comes on after 20 minutes or something.

No dehumidstat or control currently. My initial thought was to see how the rocker switch (low, standby, medium) worked first before investing in one of these. Maybe I need one to make this work as I want?

Does it still seem to you that I may have an issue with my furnace? Also, I still have the wiring setup according to our last change below. Should i put it back the way the book recommended do you think or leave it as is?
 
  #10  
Old 04-07-11, 11:41 AM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
change it back. The rocker switch is for use with no control. The control would control the unit in standby mode. I recommend a control. I dont believe there is anything wrong with the furnace because when you removed the wire from G at the thermostat the fan shut off which is the way it should work and the fan is controlled then by the furnace and operates as need by the furnace.
 
  #11  
Old 04-07-11, 11:49 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Any particular control that you would recommend? Second, where would you place this control? My house is completely done with minimal access. currently the exchanger is setup in the utility room in the basement.

Here is the reason we bought this if this information is needed. we have tremendous moisture buildup on our windows the every since building the house. We were told an exchanger would help with this. In addition, we had some mold issues in a bathroom on the north side of house furthest away from the furnace so air movement seems much less in this room and cold. We don't want to do any more tearing of anything out with such a new house due to mold or the like.

Should i simply place the control on the wall of the utility room facing the large living room down there or is more beneficial to try and figure out how to get it upstairs close to this bathroom for example?
 
  #12  
Old 04-07-11, 12:08 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
if your furnace is close to your HRV and you can run wires to the HRV. I would recommend the Honeywell VisionPro IAQ thermostat and it will control heating, cooling, and HRV. This thermostat only uses 3 wires from the furnace area to the stat so you shouldn't have to run more wires to another location in the house. All the normal wiring would be done at the Equipment interface module which would be located near the furnace.
 
  #13  
Old 04-07-11, 12:30 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
My furnace is 5 feet from the exchanger so good there.

3 wires is the requirement is all so it sounds like i could simply replace my current programmable thermostat with this unit and it will manage all of it then.

the location of my current thermostat is upstairs. This sounds good.

Will i have to wire this any differently that the honeywill will control the air exchanger?
 
  #14  
Old 04-07-11, 03:04 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
  #15  
Old 04-12-11, 03:04 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
This is great! thanks for all the help.

I ordered a TH9421C1004 on ebay today. I saw there was a 1002 and 1004 but the 1004 was version 2. Hopefully this will work. I will let you know when i get it and get it installed if i have anything else.

Love these forms and you have been a great help hvactechfw
 
  #16  
Old 04-13-11, 09:16 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
In thinking about this I am probably going to need some additional wire to connect these things up. What gauge wire should i be using here?
 
  #17  
Old 04-13-11, 02:19 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
18 gauge solid wire......................
 
  #18  
Old 04-26-11, 06:15 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Couple of additoinal questions. I am finally getting around to putting this in.

I don't see any additional a/c wires? I am guessing there must be another method that this is hooked up so have left those out thus far.

First, I have checked the wiring a few times but I am not getting power to this it doesn't seem. Either device, the box or the thermostat. Any ideas?

The furnace did have this metal transformer(guess as to what it is called) with 2 wires that was installed. I don't see this in the drawing below. I looked in the manual and am guessing they must go on c and r?

Thanks again for the assistance.
 
  #19  
Old 04-26-11, 06:23 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
well, what are the model numbers of your furnace and a/c? can you take a picture of this transformer? have you traced the wires back to what they did go to? What terminals are in your furnace?
 
  #20  
Old 04-26-11, 07:05 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
furnace model: ruud achiever 90 plus
ac model: ruud uand030jaz

Picture of furnace hookup:
2011-04-26_19-40-01_779 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

picture of transformer:
2011-04-26_19-32-46_29 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

picture of honeywell unit:
2011-04-26_20-00-12_989 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

When consulting the manual it says there should be an led on but I don't seem to have this on so am a little confused how the unit gets power? Also i may have found where the a/c wire comes in and will let you know where that goes.
 
  #21  
Old 04-26-11, 07:10 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I am an idiot. wires were close and the transformer is for the doorbell i believe. i was kind of wondering. my bad....
 
  #22  
Old 04-26-11, 07:15 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
when looking at this again. is there supposed to be a wire from rc to y,y2,g
and another from rh to w1, w2, w3?
 
  #23  
Old 04-26-11, 08:07 PM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by bline22 View Post
when looking at this again. is there supposed to be a wire from rc to y,y2,g
and another from rh to w1, w2, w3?
no..... that is simply showing wiring connections inside the eim
 
  #24  
Old 04-26-11, 08:12 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
That is what i figured...
 
  #25  
Old 04-26-11, 08:18 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Those were the a/c wires so i hooked them up per the diagram but still no power.
 
  #26  
Old 04-27-11, 05:07 AM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
no power to stat?
check for a fuse on the furnace control board. It is a 3 amp purple or pink fuse in the control board picture.

Did you shut power off to system before wiring?
 
  #27  
Old 04-27-11, 07:03 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Kind of strange. But I went through and loosened and then tightened all of the connectors and then did the same on the r, rc, rh as well to make sure all was connected and the thing fired up. I am not certain which one it was or all or what but we have power at least. I wasn't able to do anything further with it yet at this point but we have power so that is a good thing.

There is a switch that before i monkey around on the furnace i turn it off as a precaution so yes, there is power there.

Thanks again for all of the help hvactechfw. You have been a helpful prompt resource. I will drop a note back in here again if i have some questions on the configuration of this.
 
  #28  
Old 05-01-11, 05:50 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
first, should i bet starting a new thread for some of these additional questions or leave it in this one?

Is the droop temperature a settin that i would use to adjust how many degrees to fluctuate before the heat comes on?

with the new thermostat it seems to be cycling on and off really frequently/ I can go and look at the termostat and the temp has even dropped according to it but the furnace turns on.

Finally, is there a way to see on it how long your furnace ran for a 24 hour period or anything by chance?
 
  #29  
Old 05-01-11, 07:19 AM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Your questions are fine here.
1.) CPH for heating should be at 3. You should not be seeing a droop setting unless you set the stat up for heat pump?
2.) This thermostat holds a tight tolerance it is built for comfort. As with most new thermostats you should never see the insider temp drop below the set to temp. You can change setting 680 to 1 and see if that also helps with the system running frequently. You can also lower the CPH more, down to 1 if you still think it is running too much.
3.)There no function on this stat to see furnace run time for a 24 hour period.
 
  #30  
Old 05-01-11, 08:04 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
the droop setting is still set at the default.

cph=cycles per hour?

Furance is probably kicking on every 20 minutes or so, so if this is what cph stands for it seems correct. Does the same hold true for a/c?

Is the furnace less efficient running so often or maybe more efficient? I know my wife likes the more consistent temp that is for sure, but she doesn't see this bill either.
 
  #31  
Old 05-01-11, 08:43 AM
hvactechfw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,244
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
what setting are you calling droop? You shouldn't see a droop setting unless you set the system up for heat pump.

Yes, CPH is cycles per hour.
 
  #32  
Old 05-01-11, 09:34 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry for the confusion. I didn't setup the heat pump options on the thermostat. I just saw the droop option in the manual when looking through it to see if there was a temp threshold adjustment.
 
  #33  
Old 05-08-11, 07:32 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
i am trying to get this installed and was looking for a remote switch possible allowing me to turn the heater part off and on? I don't have the ability to get a 20 amp line into the current switch box but I can get it in the attic to power the heater.

I was thinking, is there a way to have a switch that sends a signal to turn the heater on from about 15ft away?
 
  #34  
Old 05-08-11, 07:48 AM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 233
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wrong thread....sorry, my previous post can be ignored. sorry about that.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: