Proper Ventilation


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Old 04-22-15, 08:41 AM
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Proper Ventilation

Live in the northeast. Western PA. Remodeling daughters house and everything down to the studs. Currently there is a ridge vent and 2 gable vents, North and South and no soffit venting. there are 2 bedrooms on the second floor with forced air heat and AC. I understand that my best option would be to put in soffit vents and baffles to the ridge and close off the gable vents. My question is this. My plan is to insulate the bedrooms walls and ceilings and seal off air leakage (wiring, vent pipes, etc.) put baffles in the rafters and insulate the rafters up to that point, not the whole way to the ridge. Then when I get the time i will put in soffit vents. This could be months from now and I need to start getting the drywall up. Would it be feasible to close off the gable vents somehow from the outside of the house after adding the soffit vents so that i can get things moving along. Once I drywall i will no longer have access to the inside of the gable vents.

Thank you
 
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Old 04-22-15, 09:40 AM
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Hi Bh and welcome to the forum.
If the existing gable vents have not been a problem with snow or rain, then there is little concern with leaving them and especially if there will be a delay in adding the soffit vents, they work poorly with just a ridge vent, but much better than nothing but a ridge vents.

If you have read the "short circuit" argument for needing to remove the existing gable vents, it is totally bull. I can explain if needed. There are concerns about leaving the gable vents in place, snow and rain as mentioned, but also high humidity in the summer, more of a concern in a marine climate. Leaving them in place will actually increase the total air flow.

But I would not suggest going through a winter with construction half completed. It doesn't take long for condensation to turn to ice and mold so if the project will not be complete, be sure to ask what needs to be buttoned up for winter.

In addition to the air sealing you mentioned, be sure to totally seal all of those ducts, except where the register goes .

Since you are down to the framing, now is also a good time to consider increasing the depth you have for adding more insulation.

Bud
 
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Old 04-23-15, 01:42 AM
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Thanks Bud. Thanks for the straight answer. Hard to get those sometimes. Going to use the Roxul insulation for the outside walls. Like what I have been reading about that. As far as the ducts. Is duct tape good enough or is there some kind of caulking/sealer that might work better. Thanks again.
 
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Old 04-23-15, 06:21 AM
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Ironically, sealing ducts is one of the worst places to use "duct tape". The foil tape is much better and if you want to go pro there are duct mastic procedures with fiber mesh. Personally, the duct mastic may have a few places where it can be used more easily than foil tape, but it is messy and I can get foil tape into some tricky places. Also, have not read any negative reports on the foil tape.

I'll add a link from Efficiency Vermont on air sealing and another on total home remodeling.
Might as well add one on capes also.
http://www.efficiencyvermont.com/ste...ide_062507.pdf
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...build-renovate
http://web.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/...c%20floors.pdf

Best
Bud
 
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Old 04-26-15, 05:05 AM
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Thanks bud. Thanks for the links
 
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Old 05-17-15, 06:04 PM
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Smile

Bud

Took your advice on sealing the ducts. Went with the mastic fiber mesh tape. Good thing its water based. What a mess. Found about 4 or 5 ducts that had come off of the fittings. Like I told my daughter, that's why you take it all down to the studs. I think she's beginning to understand. The links really helped to, especially with the insulation. The baffles were kind of a pain but I'm glad I did it. Now all I need to do is put in the soffit vents. Can you say shaky knees on a ladder! No Top Flites this fathers day, all prov1's .
Thanks again.
 
  #7  
Old 05-17-15, 06:40 PM
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LOL, I try to get away with the foil tape as much as possible just because of the mess. I did modify a few brushes to get up and over to get all of the seams, but with the foil tape I just peel back some of the backing and feed it over the top. Then grab the end of the backing and peel and stick and done. I have no idea how to explain that without a picture.

I love those links and I do appreciate you reading them and letting us know how you are doing, so often posters just disappear.

And finding out what is behind that drywall is often an eye opener. Some recent remodeling on my own home and some of the pvc fell apart. It is common to get everything cut and fit in place, but then they are supposed to go back and reassemble it WITH GLUE. They didn't, 30 years ago. The wife says, why is it taking you so long and I say, because I had to back up 30 years. She didn't laugh.

And I have ladder stories, but we don't have enough room , I freeze up once in awhile and that is a strange feeling.

Best
Bud
 
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Old 05-21-15, 06:34 AM
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Bud

Used a combination of mastic/mesh tape and foil tape where I could and used my hand (with latex glove) to smear some mastic where it was just impossible to get tape around fitting. Did everything Elbows, seams, where ever there was a connection of any sort. Even did around the take off's on the supply ducts and the seams on the air return duct to the furnace. Tested it yesterday and the system looks like its pretty tight. Thanks for the advice. Thanks to you my daughter will be warm in winter and cool in summer. Hope there is no such thing as having the system too tight?
 
 

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