Whole house fan motor replacement

Reply

  #1  
Old 06-06-16, 11:43 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 47
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Whole house fan motor replacement

I'm trying to replace the motor. The following information is directly from the faceplate: GE 5KH3QPA0358X (model #), HP 1/3-1/9, V 115, PH 1 A 6.40/2.80, RPM 1725/1140, HZ 60, CONT, SF 1.0, AMB 40°C, CODE M, FP 48, THERMALLY PROTECTED CL A INS, CPA

Can anyone tell me if a replacement motor exists for the obsolete GE or is my only option, bringing it into a motor supply-type business for them to match up?
 
Sponsored Links
  #3  
Old 06-08-16, 08:32 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 47
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks very, very much. I've ordered the motor & am looking forward to cooler nights & days ahead.
 
  #4  
Old 06-13-16, 10:14 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 47
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Whole house fan motor replacement wiring confusion

I'm confused somewhat how to wire the new motor (Dayton 3K386); configured for CW or CCW rotation. The old motor was GE 5KH3QPA0358X; not configured for reverse rotation. I'm enclosing pictures of the old motor, consisting of 3 terminals, with wiring connected, & a picture of the new motor, consisting of 4 terminals, numbered 1-4, from right to left; terminal 4 has it's numerical designation behind the terminal, unlike the others. Also included are the old motor wiring (disconnected), wall timer (wiring connected), toggle switch wiring (disconnected), & Dayton 3K386 wiring label.

In the "old motor wiring" picture, the wiring harness (visibly marked 12/2) on the left is the "power in" source. The wiring harness on the right has a black lead originating at the timer & a white lead originating at the toggle switch low position. The black lead from the "power in" source is joined/bridged with the black lead which originates at the timer (as shown in the “old motor wiring” picture). Why are the two black leads joined? Does that make the white lead in the "old motor wiring" picture wiring harness (visibly marked 12/2) on the left, the "common" wire?

In the high-off-low toggle switch wiring picture, the "low speed" white lead on the right corresponds to the white lead of the "old motor wiring" picture from the wiring harness on the right. In the high-off-low toggle switch wiring picture, the "high speed" white lead on the left corresponds to the single black lead in the middle of the "old motor wiring" picture, whose color was changed for motor terminal connection differentiation purposes. In the high-off-low toggle switch wiring picture, the wire nut-secured wire at the bottom of the picture originates at the toggle switch off position & links to the timer.

Based on the attached Dayton 3K386 wiring label, can anyone provide motor wiring assistance?

Name:  HIGH-OFF-LOW TOGGLE SWITCH WIRING.jpg
Views: 1667
Size:  32.0 KBName:  NEW MOTOR & TERMINALS.jpg
Views: 1178
Size:  48.3 KBName:  TIMER.jpg
Views: 1280
Size:  36.7 KBName:  OLD MOTOR WIRING.jpg
Views: 1548
Size:  33.9 KBName:  DAYTON 3K386 WIRING.jpg
Views: 1502
Size:  49.5 KBName:  OLD MOTOR WIRING CONFIGURATION.jpg
Views: 1286
Size:  33.9 KB
 

Last edited by bobioni57; 06-13-16 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Can't see images
  #5  
Old 06-18-16, 08:39 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,373
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
The picture of the connection diagram is blurry. Can you post a better picture?

I see that you have 2 whites and a black. Do you know where each white went on the old motor? It doesn't look like you labeled either white wire.

Does the old motor have a connection diagram that you can post so that we can find High, Low, and neutral?

Is the control that you pulled off the wall functional? Are we going to use it?

Was the old motor spinning clockwise or counter clockwise? The fan blade will help you determine the rotation.
 
  #6  
Old 06-18-16, 09:16 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,373
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
In the high-off-low toggle switch wiring picture, the "low speed" white lead on the right corresponds to the white lead of the "old motor wiring" picture from the wiring harness on the right. In the high-off-low toggle switch wiring picture, the "high speed" white lead on the left corresponds to the single black lead in the middle of the "old motor wiring" picture, whose color was changed for motor terminal connection differentiation purposes. In the high-off-low toggle switch wiring picture, the wire nut-secured wire at the bottom of the picture originates at the toggle switch off position & links to the timer.

This post was made more complicated because you unwired other components and didn't put them back after determining high speed..

Name:  New  MOTOR WIRING.jpg
Views: 1322
Size:  21.7 KB

We still need to check rotation.
 
  #7  
Old 06-18-16, 10:17 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,100
Received 372 Votes on 349 Posts
Here's a better pic of the motor wiring............

Name:  3K386.JPG
Views: 1203
Size:  46.3 KB
 
  #8  
Old 07-03-16, 11:03 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 47
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Whole house fan motor replacement old & new wiring

I've attached pictures of the old GE motor's wiring configuration as well as the current wiring configuration of the new Dayton motor.Name:  OLD GE WIRING.jpg
Views: 3814
Size:  24.1 KBName:  NEW DAYTON WIRING.jpg
Views: 5882
Size:  27.7 KB

Please review the wiring drawings for accuracy. With all wiring attached to the new Dayton motor, the motor runs on 1(one) speed only. I replaced the 3-position (high-off-low) toggle switch as well as the high & low speed leads from the toggle switch to the motor, nevertheless, with the same result. If I reverse the terminal #1(high) & terminal #3(low) leads at the motor, the motor still runs at only 1(one) speed. After switching the leads at the motor, the only thing that changes is the position I have to flip the toggle switch in order for the motor to run.

Is it possible that I was sent a defective motor? If so, is there a way to bench test the motor to check the RPMs, rated at 1725 & 1140?

By the way, the current clockwise rotation is accurate.
 
  #9  
Old 07-04-16, 11:50 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,100
Received 372 Votes on 349 Posts
I recolored your diagram slightly in order to follow it easier.

Name:  NEW DAYTON WIRING.jpg
Views: 3613
Size:  28.6 KB

When the motor should be operating in low speed... you should measure 120vac on the #2 and #3 terminals.

When the motor should be operating on high speed... you should measure 120vac on the #1 and #2 terminals.

I'd imagine there may be a wiring issue in relation to the high/low switch.


To test motor.... follow instructions above or....
Connect neutral to terminal #2.
Power on terminal #1 will run the motor in high.
Power on terminal #3 will run the motor in low.
 
  #10  
Old 07-05-16, 12:27 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 47
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
To define the motor test specifically, what you're instructing me to do is to use the "power in" black & white leads to connect directly to the motor by removing any toggle switch related terminal leads attached to the motor terminals & connect the "power in" black lead to terminal #1 & the "power in" white lead to terminal #2 to check the motor's high speed as well as connect the "power in" black lead to terminal #3 & the "power in" white lead to terminal #2 to check the motor's low speed, correct? If the motor doesn't run with the "power in" black lead connected to either terminal #1 or #3 & the "power in" white lead connected to terminal #2, then there's a motor issue, correct?
 
  #11  
Old 07-06-16, 06:09 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 47
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I bypassed the 3-position toggle switch & timer & connected the "power in" black lead to terminal #1, the motor functions. I then connected the "power in" black lead to terminal #3, the motor DOES NOT function. I've come to the conclusion that this motor is defective, do you agree?
 
  #12  
Old 07-06-16, 08:33 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,100
Received 372 Votes on 349 Posts
I would agree with your diagnosis.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: