Installing toe kick register

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Old 01-25-21, 09:09 AM
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Installing toe kick register

I'd like to install a toe kick register and doing so will require cutting through a 9-1/4" TJI foot joist. Issue is the TJI is one of three supporting a 6ft wide cantilevered floor (not counting the sides), which extends out from the foundation wall 2 feet. The joists are spaced 24" on center and tie back to a doubled up TJI 36" that runs perpendicular (main floor joists). The cantilever supports a row of cabinets with a slab of quartz so there is a significant amount of load on it. For this reason, I am a little leery of cutting a large hole through one of the joists. I had planned on running a 6" duct, but the duct run from supply trunk to register will only be about 6ft in length so I was thinking I could get away with a 5" or even 4" round duct. Or perhaps use a reducer to pass through the joist then back to 6" on either side. What do you guys recommend?
 
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Old 01-25-21, 09:17 AM
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Can't you shift it over enough to avoid the joist?
 
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Old 01-25-21, 09:27 AM
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I could but then it wouldn't be where I need it and the install would be much more difficult. I'd actually prefer to have it even farther over, but that would require cutting two joists.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:17 AM
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Can you avoid cutting any joists if you end the duct at the floor (like a floor register without the grille), use the kick space under the cabinet like a plenum and cut the kick space grille in wherever you want it?
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:21 AM
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Not really enough info to answer sight unseen.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:37 AM
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Can you avoid cutting any joists if you end the duct at the floor (like a floor register without the grille), use the kick space under the cabinet like a plenum and cut the kick space grille in wherever you want it?
Now that's something I hadn't thought of. I'm not sure that will work though because the cabinet where I want the register has a drawer on the bottom. Also, the cabinets have solid integrated bases so I'd hack them up pretty good to do that. I'd prefer to just come up through the base of the middle cabinet and out through the toe kick.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:40 AM
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Not really enough info to answer sight unseen
Sorry I don't have a pic. I just buttoned the ceiling back up yesterday and it's a pita to undo. Basically asking if I should cut a 6" hole in a 9-1/4" TJI supporting a cantilever or use a 6" to 4" reducer and cut a 4" hole considering the cantilever is supporting a set of cabinets and counter quartz countertop.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:46 AM
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"TJI supporting a cantilever" has no meaning without a drawing of your framing along with load bearing wall locations, measurements, length of cantilever, exact location of proposed hole, etc.

If you want to figure it out for yourself, go to the TJI site and download one of their documents or call them for help. There are "no boring zones", and Table A tells you how far a 6" hole in a 9 1/2" TJI would have to be (minimum) from a support wall. Table B is for when cantilevers are involved, so look at that. We have no idea where you plan on drilling as you have not made that clear at all.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:47 AM
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Another option I just thought of is I could cut through the doubled up TJIs that the cantilever joists connect to. That's probably the better solution of the two.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:53 AM
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You don't cut holes that large through beams, and it sounds like that's what they are acting as.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 10:59 AM
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has a drawer on the bottom.
If there is no cabinet "floor" below the drawer and the cabinet would be open to the plenum, you could run 4X rectangular duct from the floor outlet to the kick space grille.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 01:01 PM
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I'll have to check again. I think it may be a single TJI that they tie into. The cantilever is a pop out so other than the cabinets and frame/structure surrounding the windows (and a tiny roof) there is no other load. Nonetheless, I think cut through the cantilevered joist...

I checked the tables and for a 110, a 4" hole can be cut a minimum of 2ft from the bearing point, 5" hole at 3ft, and 6" hole at 5". That being said, I think I'll either go with a 6" to 5" reducer or just run 5" the entire length since it's only a 6ft long run. How does that sound?
 
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Old 01-25-21, 01:17 PM
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No. You use table B if there is a cantilever. See the illustration "allowable holes" and the notation "Minimum distance from Table B".
 
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Old 01-25-21, 02:02 PM
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...the cabinet does have a floor, but I could cut out a large section for ease of installation.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 02:07 PM
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Crap. Table B kind of screws me. Although those numbers are for maximum load conditions. I doubt I am anywhere near maximum. And it seems like I could reinforce the one TJI joist with a 2x10 sandwich that reaches from beam to foundation wall?
 
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Old 01-25-21, 02:28 PM
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You aren't going to get those answers here. You should likely run a 2 1/4 x 14 duct through your toekicks instead of drilling big holes in your TJI.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 03:51 PM
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I understand. Thanks for the suggestions!
 
 

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