I picked up this attic Gable ventilation fan off Facebook marketplace for free. Now I have wired a lot of things, but HVAC is not an area that I'm familiar with. So my questions are, can I wire this thing directly or does it have to have a compactor? And, it has 4 wires, since I'm fairly sure this isn't a 220 volt unit then I'm going to go with the wiring must be for speed control. This is going to be mounted over the gable vent in the loft of my shop. I have tried installing Window AC units out here but 2 units in 2 years is getting expensive. And this is Florida, just a fan in the window doesn't do anything. I need to move some air. I really need to drop the humidity. But unless I'm moving this shop to a different part is the world that's not going to happen. So a fan in the gable vent it is. That will at last move a lot larger amount of air than this little fan in my window does.
So, I have Black, green, purple and brown. Those are all original wires from the manufacturer. The green is ground, the black is common I'm guessing. Anytime I know what the purple and brown are? And when this being AC which is the neutral. Black should be hot.
Like I said, HVAC is not something I'm familiar with. So, HELP, PLEASE.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
The motor should state the required run capacitor and voltage on the tag.
I would connect black to black, purple to one side of the cap and neutral, and connect brown to the remaining side of the cap. ( After verifying voltage and the required run capacitor)
[color=#313131]Hello! My job is located inside a really old house. Recently, we’ve seen little bits of yellow insulation in the vents (they are on the ceiling). Nothing has come through the vents (that we’ve seen or noticed). Is this something we should be really concerned about? It was discovered in 3 of the 5 vents in the building. Just two or three pieces in each. Do we need to clean the ducts? I’ve found various things online…should we be concerned about the air quality in the house? Is it possible the entire place is contaminated with fiberglass? Do we need to clean the entire office space? I have seen things online that say to just do a simple dusting to evacuating the space and bringing in professionals cleaners and throw away all cloth items. Maintenance says that everything in the attic [/color]
[color=#313131]looks fine and is intact. Thanks for any help/insight.[/color]
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Hi all,
I'm reaching out for some advice regarding a replacement heat pump I had installed in my home. For various reasons, I'm not confident in my current contractor and am trying to do some homework before deciding how to proceed.
My old unit was a 5-ton Nordyne heat pump which used the standard 1" filter at the bottom of an upflow configuration. I had no reason to believe there was anything inadequate with the sizing of the old unit, the ductwork, or the filter design. I always got what felt like good flow through the supply registers when the unit ran.
I've had the unit replaced with a GE Connect system (a newer inverter system, similar to Gree Flexx and Mr. Cool, for better or worse). The air handler is similar to the old, but a single speed with a variable speed motor, where the old was a two-speed with a variable speed motor.
The new air handler is equipped with a similar 1" filter slot, but came with a metal filter with 1/8" mesh holes (see pictures). It's also an odd size, measuring about 23x20.5". I get good flow with this filter but felt uncomfortable about its ability to protect the equipment from dust and dirt build-up.
I've been searching for a suitable replacement filter, but everything I'm finding seems to restrict flow considerably. I started with a 23x20x1 MERV 8 pleated filter (closest size, but still not readily available), but what I notice is that it gets drawn up hard against the drain pan below the coil and flow to some of the supply registers drops off badly. My suspicion is with the filter getting drawn up like this, I'm effectively reducing it to a 20x20 filter (the approximate size of the drain pan opening below the coil) and reducing the flow. So even with a lower MERV filter, if I can't keep it off the drain pan, I'm not sure if I will be able to keep adequate flow going through the system. The advantage of the metal filter is that it is heavy enough not to get drawn up and the filtration is so low it has very little restriction. In fact, on some of the documentation I've seen, it's advertised and touted as a "washable filter", which I guess it is, but can't imagine it's very protective.
I suspect a 1" filter is just too small for 5 tons (2000 cfm) of flow. Unfortunately, I don't have any easy way to install an external filter in the ductwork. I've included a photo that shows the air handler configuration.
Any suggestions on how to proceed would be appreciated.
Thanks!
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