One of the Honeywell dampers on our 3-zone HVAC system isn't functioning correctly. It's on zone 2, and it correctly shows as Open when zone 2 is on or the entire system is off. It also correctly shows as Closed when zones 1 and 3 are on, but up in the duct it isn't actually closed all the way. I'm not sure just how much it's open, but it's enough that a noticeable amount of air is making it through. I'm wondering if this is something I can potentially fix myself. I haven't worked with dampers before, but I'm generally pretty handy with most DIY type tasks.
You can use a small pair of pliers/needle nose between the actuator and the duct.
Usually the shaft sticks out of the other side of the duct. You can turn it from there.
I am converting an old drop 2x4 fiberglass ceiling in my basement rec room with 2x2 rigid tiles and LED recessed lights. There are two diffusers in the ceiling of the rec room and I have always kept the dampers closed. I just figured these two vents were for heat (and AC) since they were on the ceiling and there were adjustable dampers. The ceiling vents are actually part of the cold air return. I think it was a prior mistake?? It'll be a pain to adjust the vents lower to fit the rigid ceiling tiles and then cut the tiles to fit the dampers properly. Not to mention they don't look great. [b] Is there any reason to keep these active? [/b] The ceiling tiles will be be easier to install and look better, and besides the dampers have been closed since we moved in 6 years ago.
The basement is about 3/4 finished with a heat vent in a small bedroom and bathroom. The house was built in 1951 and someone added the ceiling grid I'm guessing in the 80's. There are only two heat vents in the basement for a small bedroom (not used currently) and small bath, but both vents are kept closed. The basement is warm from the hot water heating system flows around the basement wall perimeter and that serves the 2nd floor. The 1st floor is serviced by forced air.
I'm thinking someone thought this rectangular duct was heat and decided to connect two round registers to heat the main basement rec room, and this effort was just a waste. When the blower kicks on the cold air returns on the 1st floor supply the furnace but there is still some air flow down the staircase. Based on the air flow I'm assuming there are enough leaks in the cold air return and inflow at the blower in the basement, therefore additional cold air returns in the basement are not helping anything.
[b]Does it seem reasonable to remove these cold air return vents?[/b] I could remove the start collars (hopefully that's easy to do) and close off with a sheet metal patch. This will make ceiling install easier and look better as well. Thanks for any feedback!
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[i]Existing ceiling vents. Rectangular duct is not heat but cold air return.[/i]
I have a 20+ yo vinyl sided house in west Georgia. Nat. gas heating system with the furnace/air handler in the attic. Full ventilated soffit around the perimeter with a gable style roof. There are wall vents at each gable end of the house just under the peak.
My house has always been comfortable in the Winter. This year, not so much. Its been cold somewhat in NOV this year and the interior feels chiily and drafty. The heat seems to run a bit more than last year. At the prices we're paying for fuel this year, I don't need that especially going into the dead of winter.
So looking at what has changed this year vs. last. I had a new roof put on the house in July with the Cobra peak ventilation system. That is standard for roof replacement with GAF shingles in this area apparently. My sister had a similar roof put on her house, similar size and construction, a couple years ago and her house is not drafty like mine. The one difference I see between our houses is hers does not have the gable end vents on the side walls.
Is my roof now "over ventilated" causing it to be drafty? If so, how do I correct it?
Thanks in advance for any help.