Are the pvc pipes that are open and vertical in these two pictures where I should pour my bleach into, to clean out all of the mold etc. that might have formed. I know I need to do this about once or twice per year.
I recommend using Hydrogen Peroxide instead of bleach. Hydrogen Peroxide does just as good of job dissolving any build-up and it's less expensive and you don't have to worry about getting bleach on your hands or clothing. Buy a cheap plastic funnel like used for pouring engine oil and buy 4 or 5 32oz bottles of Hydrogen peroxide from Walmart for $1 each.
Every few months during A/C season turn Off your A/C at the thermostat and pour a couple cups of Hydrogen Peroxide into the PVC stub-up for the primary condensate line. Wait about 15 to 20 minutes before turning the A/C back On again at the thermostat to let it soak in and dissolve any gunk in the condensate line.
Should those pvc pipes be capped at all? they are just sticking up fully open.
No, leave the stub-up open to the atmosphere so it will drain properly. The open ¾" PVC standpipe acts as a vent to the atmosphere and must remain open and not be capped. This open vent is much like allowing air into the bottom of a large bottle you want to dump the liquid out of. It's like opening the vent on the back side of a gasoline can when pouring gas in a lawnmower. It needs a vent to allow air in to fill the void where liquid was so the liquid inside can flow out easily and unrestricted..
Some HVAC condensation lines are installed without a P-trap. A P-trap is not needed in a system when the A-Coil and its condensate line is on the positive side. In this setup the condensate line only needs to have an open vent to the atmosphere/attic. If however a P-trap is installed for code purposes it must be vented on the coil side. It is important that this vent pipe not be capped because condensate water will not drain properly.
Pressurized blower air from the A-Coil cabinet, along with the open standpipe vent helps push the water out of the condensate line, which in many areas is drained out underneath a lavatory sink, below its drain and above its P-trap. If the standpipe vent is capped the vent air can't help push the water out - and the sink where the condensate is to drain out can't drain well because blower air pressure would block water from draining out of the sink's bowl at the small gap of the drain stopper. The ¾" PVC vent pipe for the primary condensate line is to be left open to the atmosphere/attic. The small amount of cool air released into the attic or wherever from the ¾" diameter PVC open vent pipe is insignificant and trivial.
I am buying a house built in 1949. The furnace and hot water heater are newer (one is 6 years old and one is 12 years old). These are vented into a brick chimney that is unlined. My inspector said that it should be lined and stainless steel is the best though there are other options. The chimney is tall as it goes from the basement up beyond the 2nd story roof. He estimated it would be around $4k to line it. He called the furnace "medium efficiency".
My questions are:
-Is this required by code or a nice to have? I live in a big city and I'm sure it might vary by jurisdiction.
-How bad is it not being lined? He said the vapor is acidic and will eventually cause problems. But it has been this way at least 12 years.Read More
Hello again,
I'm trying to replace a basic Broan 678 fan with a similar one (that doesn't squeak and squeal). I don't want get involved in ripping out drywall to replace the housing with a bigger/more powerful model at this point in time. The one I bought doesn't have the cutouts for the plugs in the same place. I was thinking of trying to cut out, somehow, the openings, but was wondering if anyone had thoughts or if there is a better way?
Drill the corners of what I want then a jigsaw with metal blade?
Picture of the old and new for reference.
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_5165_05195f112055e4d7b630afd7965c775882f9a018.jpg[/img]
[i]Old on left, new on right. [/i]
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