Maytag Dishwasher


  #1  
Old 05-17-03, 11:04 AM
Dear Old Dad
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Question Maytag Dishwasher

I have a Jetclean Maytag dishwasher that will not quite running and continues to fill with water.

It will pass through the various cycles correctly, but when the final cycle is done it continues to make a noice that suggests a motor is still running. The sound is still present afte I have turned off the water source. I had to turn on the water source because it continues to fill throughout all of the cycles.

It sort of sounds like I have a water value that is stuck open, except the continuous motor sound is a concern.
 
  #2  
Old 05-17-03, 12:28 PM
jeff1
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Cool

Hi,

I have a Jetclean Maytag dishwasher
What model# do you have?
http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html
Model# helps.

continues to fill with water.
Will the dishwasher flood/over fill? Usually there is a float device to shut off the power to the fill valve once the float rises enough with the water level. The fill valve can still mechanically stick open and continue to fill even with no power going to the fill valve.

but when the final cycle is done it continues to make a noice that suggests a motor is still running
Might want to remove the access panals to varify if it is indeed the main motor still running...might be dry cycles ?fan? motor still running??

I had to turn on the water source because it continues to fill throughout all of the cycles
If the water is going thorugh the fill valve and you *carefully* pull off the wires goign to the fill valve and the d/w continues to fill, does sound like new fill valve time.

jeff.
 
  #3  
Old 05-25-03, 04:55 AM
Dear Old Dad
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More info on Maytag leak

I appreciate your reply. I followed your guide and check out the valve and the float.

It turns out that the valve shut off when I pull the wire and the float switch also works. I verified that the float is clear and is working.

However, at the end of the cycle the dishwasher continues to fill until I have almost 2 inches of water in the bottom of the washer.

It fills until it is right on the verge of overflowing.

Thanks for your help.
 
  #4  
Old 05-25-03, 05:11 AM
jeff1
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Smile

Hello,

However, at the end of the cycle the dishwasher continues to fill until I have almost 2 inches of water in the bottom of the washer
Is the d/w running at this point or off at this point?

The fill valve can still mechanically stick open and continue to fill even with no power going to the fill valve.
Above is from the last posting.

It fills until it is right on the verge of overflowing
Can you drain this out without any problems by setting the d/w to a drain mode?

A slow drain may "keep" a little water inside after each drain and by the end of the cycle the d/w will be full.

jeff.
 
  #5  
Old 05-25-03, 05:25 AM
Dear Old Dad
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Maytag leak

The dishwasher has completed its cycle, but the water continues to flow into the tub until the float finally shuts off the valve. However, that occurs just before the tub would overflow.

I ran the d/w in the drain mode and all things drained well. The d/w finished its cycle with the water out of the tub. However, the inlet valve is open at that point and the d/w fills until the valve shuts it off again.
 
  #6  
Old 05-25-03, 05:52 AM
jeff1
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Smile

Hi,

What model# do you have?
http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html
Model# helps.

I don't remember finding out which style/model you had.

If you have a volt meter...place it on the fill valves leads...110-120 volts AC to the fill valve and the d/w has shut off might indicate a timer or control still sending power to the fill valve at the wrong time, pinched/shorted wire is next.

No power going to the fill valve would indicate the valve is mechanically opening up and filling.

http://www.applianceaid.com/electric...ting_tips.html
Meter tips.

jeff.
 
  #7  
Old 05-25-03, 11:23 AM
ohm_boy
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Jeff,
His posting:
It turns out that the valve shut off when I pull the wire
makes me think that it is receiving power. Might want to look a little further up the line?
Or did I miss something... again?
 
  #8  
Old 05-25-03, 12:21 PM
jeff1
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110-120 volts AC to the fill valve and the d/w has shut off might indicate a timer or control still sending power to the fill valve at the wrong time, pinched/shorted wire is next
makes me think that it is receiving power. Might want to look a little further up the line?
It turns out that the valve shut off when I pull the wire
*Sounds* all is working throughout the normal cycle...until possibly the end...I don't think you missed anything!??!

jeff.
 
  #9  
Old 05-25-03, 06:54 PM
Dear Old Dad
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Cool Even more on the Maytag

1. Model number
a. Maytag Jetclean EQ-plus
b. MDB9100AWB

2. I measure the voltage between the value and the loose wire I pulled off. I measured 110v. When I depressed the float switch I got a drop of about 5 volts. Nothing more.

3. I then started looking for a pinched or loose wire. I didnít find anything. When I tracked each wire to see what I could see they seemed to all be going into the door.

I appreciate your continued support. Thanks!
 
  #10  
Old 05-25-03, 07:12 PM
jeff1
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Smile

The d/w finished its cycle with the water out of the tub. However, the inlet valve is open at that point and the d/w fills until the valve shuts it off again.
I measure the voltage between the value and the loose wire I pulled off.
To see what is happening at the end of the cycle...do not pull off any wires, do not manually swithc the float switch...leave meter attached to the 2 wires on the fill valve...when the d/w shuts off/finishes see if you are getting power to the fill valve or not when it starts filling again when it is not suppose to be filling.

When I depressed the float switch I got a drop of about 5 volts. Nothing more.
With the d/w filling and meter across the 2 fill valve wires you should read 110-120 volts AC, lift float ( which disengages the floar switch ) you should read 0/zero volts AC. This may not mean much anyway since it sounds liek you d/w isn't messing up until the last part of the cycle?...right?

MDB9100AWB
Electronic controlled d/w...

jeff.
 
  #11  
Old 05-25-03, 09:12 PM
Dear Old Dad
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Thumbs down water in my Maytag

I left the wires connected.
I got 110 volts when the valve was open and 0 volts when the float switch automatically shut off the valve.
The problem is that I now have about 2 inches of water in the bottom of the tub.
 
  #12  
Old 05-26-03, 03:26 AM
jeff1
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Cool

Hi,

Either I am missing the boat here...or not explaining my questions clearly.

I left the wires connected.
Good!

I got 110 volts when the valve was open and 0 volts when the float switch automatically shut off the valve.
Was this at the end of the cycle after the d/w shut off?...like in your statments...**The d/w finished its cycle with the water out of the tub. However, the inlet valve is open at that point and the d/w fills until the valve shuts it off again.**

If yes...judging by the
wiring diagram for your d/w the only thing capable of sending power to the fill valve on it's own after the cycle has ended in the control itself. So if your d/w is filling up again after the cycle has ended, sounds like the control is still sendign power to the fill valve until the water level allows the float switch to open the circuit, which is what the flaot is suppose to do...float sounds ok, fill valve sounds, control sounds bad if this is what is happening.

The problem is that I now have about 2 inches of water in the bottom of the tub
We understand that...what we where trying to determine was the fill opening with no power or was the fill valve receiving power at the cycles end when the d/w refilled on it's own.

PCB ASSEMBLY (Series 10)
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=774576
No pic.

PCB ASSEMBLY (Series 11)
PCB ASSEMBLY (Series 14)
PCB ASSEMBLY (Series 24)

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=940548

The series # is the first two numbers in your d/w's serial #.

Many/most of these controls had a 5 year parts warranty...might be worth checking your BOS! Some of the earlier models had many problems, calling Maytag to see if they will help as well wouldn't hurt.
http://www.applianceaid.com/phone.html#M

jeff.
 
  #13  
Old 08-23-06, 03:22 PM
K
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Maytag Dishwasher Leaking Float

I have an MDB4000AWA Maytag Dishwasher. It is leaking at the float. I have cleaned the draining ports, the six screw filter gismo at the bottom of the dishwasher. Everything is clean and clear, I have checked the drain hose. The dishwasher works absolutely fine. When the dishwasher is in a washing cycle. The float will start to bob up and down slightly, and the float starts to leak ever so slightly at the float switch. I have taken the float out about half a dozen times now, and I just cannot figure this out. What I am really confused about is there does not appear to be any type of a seal to stop the water from splashing up inside of the float and starting to leak down the float tube causing water to leak at the switch side of the float. Should there not be a seal or something inside the float to stop water from getting up and into the tube where the float bobs up and down?
I can usually figure these kind of problems out, but this one has me baffled.
Please help!!!
 
  #14  
Old 05-21-07, 09:43 AM
J
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Location: Westminster
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Cool Float leak

I'm experiencing the exact same problem as Kelvin8r; water is leaking from the post of the float valve. Originally, the machine was leaking from the door seal. After I replaced the door seal, water began to leak from the float valve.

The float valve seems to work OK. It's clean and bobs up and down with the water level in the bottom of the machine. However, water seems to be splashing into the float and dripping down the plastic post to the switch.

Can anyone help us with this problem? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

-JOHN-
 
 

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