Maytag stackable MHW2000AWW


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Old 01-04-04, 11:23 AM
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Maytag stackable MHW2000AWW

I read all the problems with the door lock, control board and wax motor. Mine after 6 years of use burned out the 3.9k resistor. I bought the new door lock assembly for $65.00 at a local parts store. I replaced the 3.9k resistor but did not know about the Q6 triac. So it still does not lock. For a quick fix just to get the wash done, I jumped out both micro switches in the door lock. It worked fine ecept when the spin cycle is over the machine will just keep soft tumbling until to press the stop button. Also if you plan to do what I did, make sure you don't try to wash any rugs or heavy quilts. The door can be knocked open and leave you with a mess. Hope this can help others in the same predicament.
 
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Old 01-05-04, 08:01 AM
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Re: Maytag stackable MHW2000AWW

Originally posted by Technoid
I read all the problems with the door lock, control board and wax motor. Mine after 6 years of use burned out the 3.9k resistor. I bought the new door lock assembly for $65.00 at a local parts store. I replaced the 3.9k resistor but did not know about the Q6 triac. So it still does not lock. For a quick fix just to get the wash done, I jumped out both micro switches in the door lock. It worked fine ecept when the spin cycle is over the machine will just keep soft tumbling until to press the stop button. Also if you plan to do what I did, make sure you don't try to wash any rugs or heavy quilts. The door can be knocked open and leave you with a mess. Hope this can help others in the same predicament.
I just installed a new Q6. My local electronic store had an NTE5656. I replaced the 3.9k with a 10k resistor. The machine works great again at an additional cost of $2.39.
 
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Old 01-17-04, 04:53 PM
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MHW2000AWW Your help is needed

I read your messages with a sense of relief. I replaced the door lock assembly but the problem is still there. Can you give me a few instructions on replacing the resistor and the other component? First question: where is the control board? The Sears guy told me it is on top of the dryer (mine is the stacking unit). The Maytag parts depot wants to sell me the control motor/board assembly - $265 CAD. Once I find the control board, do I need more than a soldering gun to replace the resistor and other part?

Thanks for any help you can provide!
 
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Old 01-17-04, 05:13 PM
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Re: MHW2000AWW Your help is needed

Originally posted by crjones1
I read your messages with a sense of relief. I replaced the door lock assembly but the problem is still there. Can you give me a few instructions on replacing the resistor and the other component? First question: where is the control board? The Sears guy told me it is on top of the dryer (mine is the stacking unit). The Maytag parts depot wants to sell me the control motor/board assembly - $265 CAD. Once I find the control board, do I need more than a soldering gun to replace the resistor and other part?

Thanks for any help you can provide!
Buy yourself a de-soldering tool. Its a solder gun with a suction tip on it. The control board is located on the right hand side at the top of the dryer unit. You have to remove the dryer door, front cover, control knob panel and then take out the top corner screws which hold the roof of the dryer to the cabinette. You have to lift up on the metal just enough to remove the board. Oh yeah, you must remove the 2 screws on the top of the dryer that hold the board assembly in. I am doing this by memory so bear with me if I make a mistake. You don't have to unplug the board. Just support it. The board slides out of a metal holder. My experience from working with static sensative components is to leave the wires on. The resistor and varac are close to each other. Take great care when you unsolder not to over heat the board. Do the same when you solder the new parts back in. The lands are very fragile. Use a low wattage pencil iron or a good grounded tip unit like Weller sells. Hope this helps. This site sure saved me money. let me know how you make out.
 
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Old 01-17-04, 05:23 PM
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Re: Re: MHW2000AWW Your help is needed

Thanks for the help! I am off to Radio Shack in the morning!

Originally posted by Technoid
Buy yourself a de-soldering tool. Its a solder gun with a suction tip on it. The control board is located on the right hand side at the top of the dryer unit. You have to remove the dryer door, front cover, control knob panel and then take out the top corner screws which hold the roof of the dryer to the cabinette. You have to lift up on the metal just enough to remove the board. Oh yeah, you must remove the 2 screws on the top of the dryer that hold the board assembly in. I am doing this by memory so bear with me if I make a mistake. You don't have to unplug the board. Just support it. The board slides out of a metal holder. My experience from working with static sensative components is to leave the wires on. The resistor and varac are close to each other. Take great care when you unsolder not to over heat the board. Do the same when you solder the new parts back in. The lands are very fragile. Use a low wattage pencil iron or a good grounded tip unit like Weller sells. Hope this helps. This site sure saved me money. let me know how you make out.
 
  #6  
Old 01-18-04, 03:56 PM
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Re: Re: MHW2000AWW Your help is needed

I went to get the 3.6 K resistor and the salesman wanted to know what wattage? I haven't a clue. Thanks for your input!

Originally posted by Technoid
Buy yourself a de-soldering tool. Its a solder gun with a suction tip on it. The control board is located on the right hand side at the top of the dryer unit. You have to remove the dryer door, front cover, control knob panel and then take out the top corner screws which hold the roof of the dryer to the cabinette. You have to lift up on the metal just enough to remove the board. Oh yeah, you must remove the 2 screws on the top of the dryer that hold the board assembly in. I am doing this by memory so bear with me if I make a mistake. You don't have to unplug the board. Just support it. The board slides out of a metal holder. My experience from working with static sensative components is to leave the wires on. The resistor and varac are close to each other. Take great care when you unsolder not to over heat the board. Do the same when you solder the new parts back in. The lands are very fragile. Use a low wattage pencil iron or a good grounded tip unit like Weller sells. Hope this helps. This site sure saved me money. let me know how you make out.
 
  #7  
Old 01-18-04, 04:18 PM
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Re: Re: Re: MHW2000AWW Your help is needed

Originally posted by crjones1
I went to get the 3.6 K resistor and the salesman wanted to know what wattage? I haven't a clue. Thanks for your input!

Its a 1/2 watt. Use a resistor which is high enough to lower the current in the varac. Its a 24 volt dc circuit. The device has a max current of 5 ma. You want to be below that amount. If you divide 10,000 into 24 you get 2.4 ma. Use a 10k resistor. This is why the board smoked in the first place. The people who design the circuit caused the varac to draw more power than was needed. (You sell more replacement parts that way.)
 
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Old 05-20-07, 11:09 AM
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Maytag stackable MHW2000AWW Control Board Location

Where is the control board located and how do I get to it?

Thanks!
Dennis
 
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Old 06-17-07, 12:13 PM
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Board location

The main board is loacted behind the controls at the top of the machine. Or if you have a stackable, its located inside the top of the dryer on the right hand side. You need to take the front panel cover and door off the dryer. Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 

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