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  #41  
Old 02-01-04, 11:11 AM
SteveT
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Similar problem with a Whirlpool dryer. The thermostat heater is not showing any continuity on my meter, should be reading 3200-3900, is an open circuit.

The main drying element is right on spec at 8.9 (9 is stated).

I've had a lot of problems with lint even with cleaning, likely due in part to a long run to the back of the house for the duct pipe.

First symptoms were dryer would keep running on the auto cycle for a lot longer than it should (2x). Then on the timed cycle the clothes would not be dry at the end, then finally, no heat at all on either cycle.

Would a break in the thermostat heater element be consistent with that behavior? I'm just a guy with his multimeter who knows more about microelectronics than applicance...and if so, what is the cost range for that element?

Thanks!
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 04-03-04 at 12:16 PM.
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  #42  
Old 02-01-04, 11:13 AM
SteveT
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Unhappy Darn Dryer won't heat!

Oh, BTW the fuses both showed continuity, I assume that means the two are still good and I likely have a broken element...

Steve
 
  #43  
Old 02-01-04, 11:50 AM
SteveT
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Now I am confused. I go searching for something matching the parts I tested, and where the wiring diagram says "thermostat heater XXXX-XXXX ohms"
all I find are:

Thermal Fuse
P/N: 3392519

Thermal Cut-Off Kit
P/N: 279769

Thermal Cut-Off Kit used on many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands electric dryers from 1985 to 1995. Kit contains one Hi-Limit Thermostat and one Thermal Cut-Off (fuse) .

When I look at the photos these guys look like where my testing shows bad -
white wire/purple wire BH/BH1 - open circuit, looks similar to the picture of the Thermal Fuse.
The others test fine.

 
  #44  
Old 02-01-04, 02:38 PM
miguel.rivera
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dryer not heat

I have a dry and is not heating Enough, I have to give more thant 2hours before I get the cloth almust dry, theres anything that I can verify to see what is the problem?
 
  #45  
Old 02-01-04, 02:53 PM
KurtDixon
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Yup, dry without the vent attached and then clean the vent (since the dryer will dry properly when the clogged vent is not attached.)
You will almost always feel some air coming out of a dryer vent, but with even a slightly clogged, bent or crushed vent, the airflow is slowed down considerably and dry times rise.
 
  #46  
Old 02-01-04, 09:49 PM
SteveT
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Thank you Miguel, but I have been informed that my account settings regarding my signature (an obvious poor attempt at humor) is an "ADVERTISEMENT" and unless I change I am in violation of some policy.

Best regards, I hope you find at least one answer here.

SteveT
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 04-03-04 at 12:18 PM.
  #47  
Old 02-02-04, 04:25 PM
Cletus Hawkins
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Squeeky Dryer! Mice?

I gots me a squeeky Maytag dryer. I checked for both mice and gremlins, cain't say as I found any. Even good ol' WD40 failed me on this time. First it seems to run smoothly, then it gets to squeekin' like the dickens, then when I shut off her power and start her back up again, often enuff, she starts a purrin' like a kitty kat. But then she starts a shriekin' an' a squeelin' like a ***** in heat again afore long. Her belt was replaced not that long ago, and seems to be in fine runnin' condition. All her parts seem to be in good condition, includin' the 2 rubber wheels that roll along a groove in the drum (I cleaned these with Rubber Renew; no difference). Do I need to go and get a bigger can of WD40, or...?
 
  #48  
Old 02-03-04, 06:01 AM
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Hello: Cletus

Noise is a common problem when the drum rollers wear out on some models. The rollers have bearings which wear out also. Lubricating the bearings does not work long if at all. WD is not a good lubricant, on appliances.

Some dryers also use pads called gliders or sliders. Some dryers use both rollers and glider or slider pads in combination. The noise may not be coming from only one worn out part. Look for signs of worn out parts mentioned above.

What the noise indicates is those parts have become wornout and the drum is rotating on the support bracket and not on the intended parts. May also be the fan blower or the motor.

Read several of the already asked questions on dryers which are making noises within this forum. Doing so will provide you with plenty of additional information on the problem and how to correct it.

If you need further assistance, use the reply button to add any additional information or ask additional questions after attempting the correctional method or methods offered.

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  #49  
Old 02-03-04, 10:54 AM
Cletus Hawkins
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Thanks for pointin' me in the right direction. I'll do all the readin' I can, before I git started. But its kind of a big job for me to take the whole kit n' kaboodle apart to get at the roller bearings, so I'd like to try to be more sure I need to look at the rollers. 'Cos when I looked at the 2 roller wheels while the machine was runnin', they looked fine, they rolled okay when the drum was turned by hand, too. So what I thought, was that the drum itself may have got loosened off its moorings, causin' that grindin' steel squealin' sound. Should I look at that possibility first, or that ain't gonna be it?
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 04-03-04 at 10:58 AM.
  #50  
Old 02-03-04, 12:52 PM
Cletus Hawkins
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Problem with Dryer’s idle roller

I think I solved the problem I mentioned in “Squeeky Dryer! Mice?”. I took the dryer apart and had me a look at the idle rollers. Here’s what I saw:

LEFT idle roller is a rubber wheel attached to a hollow shaft, mounted on a solid shaft, with triangular plastic retaining clips on either side. There’s about a couple o’ millimetres of play between the clps when you move the wheel back and forth.

RIGHT idle roller is very similar, except there’s about 12 millimetres of play between the clips. That’s a greater width than the width of the groove in the drum that the wheels ride in. So I’m not sure if this is normal, but it actually LOOKS normal. Here’s why: the solid shaft on this right wheel is not of one dimension. There’s about 8mm at the back of the shaft where the dimension of the shaft is smaller than the front part of the shaft. This is where the back retaining clip is currently located. Seems it can’t be pushed forward on the shaft to be placed right behind the wheel (as the LEFT one is), because that part of the shaft is too big for the clip to fit on. On the other hand, it doesn’t make much sense to me that one wheel is supposed to have much more play than the other. As for their bearin’s, both wheels move freely, but the LEFT one moves more freely.

Question I have is, is this normal that one wheel would be designed with much more play between the retaining clips than the other, and if not, why can’t the back retaining clip on the RIGHT wheel be secured behind the wheel? I’m also stumped as to how to take these wheels apart from the FRONT, because the metal ‘nut’ in front of the retaining clip does not screw off.
(I know how to take them off from the back of the machine, they’re bolted on, but accessing that bolt is real tough!).
 
  #51  
Old 02-03-04, 01:27 PM
appliancepresid
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Hello Cletus,
Sounds like you are looking at the drum support rollers.

If you replace them they should be replaced in pairs.

If the shaft or bearing inside roller is wobbled out or worn replace them both on each side. check the shafts also they may be worn and can be replaced also

If you are looking at the idler pulley, this is the one that puts tension on the belt if it is worn out wobbled out replace.

There is a p/m kit available for dryers, it includes rollers , idler, drum seal and belt.

check with your local parts house give them make and model #
 
  #52  
Old 02-03-04, 01:30 PM
appliancepresid
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The metal cap nut is removed with pliers you will get new ones with the new rollers, everything is done from the front to replace drum rollers.

the new cap nuts just push on
 
  #53  
Old 02-03-04, 04:42 PM
Cletus Hawkins
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Thet would be right, they're the (drum roll please...) "drum rollers". Thing is, the shaft looks fine and the rubber wheels ain't got a scratch on 'em. Do you know if the right roller should have that much play, as I described it? Because if that's normal, then maybe the squealin' problem ain't comin' from the rollers...
 
  #54  
Old 02-03-04, 05:45 PM
appliancepresid
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The way you describe the problem , I would replace the drum rollers and idler pulley. retail cost is about 7.99 each for drum rollers and about 9.00 for idler pulley. your in there now it will give more years of use . and the cost should be under 30.00

unless a tech comes out then about 115.00

the moving back and forth is not the problem it would be if the roller has slop if pulling up on the roller as if the bearing or shaft has worn,
generally drum rollers when bad will make the dryer sound as if shoes are "thumping" in the drum. an idler pulley will generally squeal. but have seen both occur.

hope that helps
 
  #55  
Old 02-03-04, 07:30 PM
egray3
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Kenmore dryer noise

How do I take apart dryer?

I have the front panel off and have taking off the "LINT DUCT ASSEMBLY", but I cant get the nut out of the "WHEEL, BLOWER" to dislodge it from the motor. My guess is that something is broke between the motor and the blower wheel or the motor is burned up, thus I want to let the motor spin freely to check my theory

I can spin the wheel by hand and when the dryer on it turns for about 5 secs before stopping (slowing and the motor trips) I smell electric burn up smell. (I only did this one time for a test and stopped it ASAP.

Thanks for you help!
-Ernie
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 04-03-04 at 10:59 AM.
  #56  
Old 02-03-04, 08:00 PM
egray3
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Part II.

Its not the motor. I just disconnect the belt and it blew fine. Thus somthing is jammed/broken in the tumbling unit.

How do I get to the back of that unit to look at the piece it must be sitting on to rotate?

Thanks
-Ernie
 
  #57  
Old 02-04-04, 12:29 PM
Cletus Hawkins
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Okay, new question! How do I tell if an idle roller needs replacin', say if the bearin's are worn? I just read that this device is what can cause high pitched squealin' like I have, and since I haven't yet determined that there's anything unusual about my drum support rollers, this may be the culprit. I tried turning the roller by hand. It turns okay but does not turn freely after I remove my hand. Is it supposed to?
 
  #58  
Old 02-08-04, 11:21 AM
SamNglenallen
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Thanx again for the initial reply...

To save another trip I considered hiring a repairman...but they wanted as much to rebuild the pump as a whole new pump and motor assembly cost and then another $100 on top for the call and removal/installation...almost considered the fee and a new setup...then he said it would be 3-4 days to get the parts!

I reconsidered~~~& very glad I did!!!...found the parts here locally cheaper and it was a nice day for a 2 hour trip to the beach~~~disassembly and installation was a breeze!

I was surprised at just how easy it was!

Sam
 
  #59  
Old 02-08-04, 11:31 AM
SamNglenallen
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dryer, kicking breaker off???

Hi,

If it is not one thing~~~its another!...LOL!

Have FRIDGIDAIRE electric dryer...it is old but functional...it started poppong the circuit breaker yesterday!

It was in the HIGH heat mode...I changed it to a LOW heat mode, reset the breaker...it ran fine and finished the load.

NEXT LOAD...popped the breaker within a couple of minutes...changed it to NO HEAT mode and it worked fine & finished the load (it was a small light wieght load).

last night put in the heavier jeans load and figured...run the tumble with no heat and redo it inb the a.m. till it was dry~~~
well it didn't work...this time, it popped the breaker within just a few moments...even with no heat.

So much for me isolating the problem to the heat control items...

Any suggestions?

Sam
 
  #60  
Old 02-08-04, 12:59 PM
MoHunter
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bad connection

with the breaker off check to if the screws that secure the wire to the breaker are tight, if they are loose they will heat up causing the breaker to trip. Sounds like a bad connection at the breaker or the breaker is just geting weak.
 
  #61  
Old 02-08-04, 09:29 PM
clink1833
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Need help taking apart Kenmore electric dryer

I am trying to replace a belt in my Kenmore (whirlpool brand) full front panel dryer. I know that once I get in there that I will be able to easilt replace it, but I am not sure how to get in there!

Full front Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore style dryers: disconnect power first Once you have the top tilted up and inner front screws off, you pull the top of the front panel out towards you and lift the front panel off the clips that hold the bottom of the panel onto the cabinet. The front is placed onto a clip on the front of the dryer cabinet, the front panel has a hole in it that will sit on a tab built into the front clip. You must pull up slightly to disengage it from the clip and push down slightly to reinstall the front onto the clip.

I am not sure how to tilt the top up. I have it ajar , but I cannot lift it up, there is resitance, and I dont see any screws to unscrew.

Hope someone can help me! The model number is 110.86572110 65721.



 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 04-03-04 at 10:53 AM.
  #62  
Old 02-09-04, 07:13 AM
sjdlewis
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electric dryer not working

Greetings!

I have a kenmore 80 series electric dryer that is not working. I've replaced a burnt-out heating element and thermal fuse and it is still not working.

Does anyone have any insight as to what the problem may be?

The model number is 110 66812692.
 
  #63  
Old 02-09-04, 03:19 PM
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Angry Whirlpool Electric Dryer quit

Model #LET6638DQ1. Turned the knob to drying time, hit the button & thought I saw a flash behind the dryer. Breaker was OK, wires look fine. I unplugged it,plugged it back in and still nothing. Dryer is about 7-1/2 years old. Thanks.
 
  #64  
Old 02-09-04, 05:21 PM
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Hello: sjdlewis

Knowing what is meant by not working after the parts have been replaced would help greatly. No heat? Drum not turning?

Anything happening? Clarify what is meant by not working exactly. Use the reply button to add the additional information.

For more detailed information etc. read the recent postings within this forum. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question.

These prior postings and any or all the replies offered within them contain almost all the required information needed pertaining to the many potential and or possible problems with the appliance like your describing.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

http://www.sears.com
(copy & paste into browser)

Another possibility may be to search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe which also needs to be downloaded but worth having the Adobe once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Search this forum for prior asked questions pertaining to this problem. Chances are very likely this problem has been asked before and the answers to solve it have been provided.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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  #65  
Old 02-09-04, 05:30 PM
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Hello: cliff&kim

If there was an electrical spark behind the control panel, unplug the dryer or turn off the electrical power to it. Than remove the panel cover behind the control panel and inspect for burned wires and or parts.

May find the start button the cause of the problem by visual inspection. May be the start button is internally burned. May need to remove it and replace it.

DIY'S Appliance Parts and Accessories Shopping Center.
http://doityourself.com/store/applianceparts.htm

Electric Appliance Parts & Repair:
http://www.sears.com
http://www.whirlpool.com
Appliance Parts, Pictures & Help:
http://www.PartSelect.com
Appliances Parts & Help:
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com
Kitchen Appliance Parts:
http://www.parts-depot.online.com
(copy & paste into browser)

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

If you need further assistance, use the reply button to add any additional information or questions. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

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  #66  
Old 02-09-04, 09:19 PM
JRichmond
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Squeaky GE dryer

My GE model 473 dryer is making a squealing sound, intermittent, but fairly often. I thought the belt might be slipping so I opened it up and bought a new belt. Before I could install the new belt, the old one came off the tensioner and motor shaft and I don't know how it's supposed to be threaded on them. Also, I'm not sure it actually is the belt that's making the noise. While I've got it open I'm wondering if I should replace anything else, grease anything or what? At the back of the drum there's a little roller, but the front just rests on some pads on the cabinet front. I'd appreciate any help on this because the laundry is piling up.

JIm Richmond
 
  #67  
Old 02-10-04, 05:02 AM
appliancepresid
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Hi,
the drum is resting on "glides" in the front they do become worn out the nylon glide wears down and or the pading underneath the glides become dryed out.

the idler pulley in the rear that the belt goes around is where most noise occur, that has been most of the calls i have been on.

if idler is good, the front glides left and right I would check.
 
  #68  
Old 02-10-04, 05:38 AM
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Hello: Jim

Additional notes and suggestions.

There is also one other remote possiblity for the squeak. The drum bearing, which is located at the back of the drum. Not all dryers have a rear bearing. That model may have one.

Should this be the case, remove the screws securing the drum to the bearing, located inside the drum on it's back wall. Also notice that there is a felt strip inside this plastic extension that the lower part of the drum rides in. This may need to be replaced too.

Remove all lint inside the dryer compartment. It's always recommended that you clean out the exhaust vent tubing, regardless of whether it is plastic or metal tubing. Check the exhaust vents outside hood. It should be freely moveable.

Read the manufacturers online web site for repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals, which may be available online.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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  #69  
Old 02-10-04, 06:13 AM
appliancepresid
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Thanks Sharp Advise, my mind overlooked the rear bearing,

However , another way to get at that bearing is to go to back wall of the dryer, you will see an access cover, behind it will be the drum support bearing shaft which has a E-clip retainer and a couple of washers. when that is removed you can then pull drum out . that bearing is plastic there is a new style and old style. you can find those at most parts houses if worn. just bring model number with you

Going through the back for me is easier than trying to align the 3 screws in the inside of the backwall of drum.

just another thought.
 
  #70  
Old 02-10-04, 01:42 PM
SamNglenallen
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thanx for the info...

BUT I need you to analize this symptoms, please???

Upon opening the unit up...I found arcing traces along the rear of the drum...2 broken porcelain insulators that held the heating coil in a large circle at the back of the drum.

Apparently when the things broke and the element heated up it drooped down and bowed outward to the drum...causing a short.

There was also a connection (closest to the short) that had 2 wires tapped into one connector...The large one was fine but the smaller one was fried!!!...about 1" of insulation black and melted and most of the copper strands gone!

It took a couple days to get the insulators in from Baltimore...I just installed them and repaired the burnt wires!!!

LOOKS GOOD!...reassembled...loaded with clothes~~~~CLICK!!!~~~~~yep before I could even finish loading it and start it...IT POPPED THE BREAKER!!!

Before it did it when you started it...NOW IT IS KNOCKING IT OUT JUST BEING PLUGGED IN???????????????

THANX,

Sam
 
  #71  
Old 02-10-04, 09:28 PM
oneofseven
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Angry Maytag Magic Chef wont start

Maytag's Magic Chef Model YE20HN3


Hey everyone!!!!

Can someone tell me what it means when I try to start my dryer and all I hear is the beginning of starting, then a click and then nothing?

I don't hear any movement from the drum. It just sounds like it wants to start but then it won't. I have to wait about 5 minuets before trying again.

I have no volt meter and according to the parts salesmen at a local store; If I connect the two wires leading to the high-limit thermostat(which I did) and I still get nothing(which I did not), then its not the high-limit thermostat that is the problem. I really thought that was the problem.

Please help me... ...

Lord, I hate the Laundromat. Just think of it...your clothes where others have been.....eeeeewwwww
 
  #72  
Old 02-11-04, 06:39 AM
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Hello: oneofseven

May have a broken belt or a burned out motor. That clicking noise may be the starter windings in the motor. Starter windings are used to get the motor spinning than click out once the motor starts turning.

To check the belt, remove the access panel and check it. If the belt is tensioned on the pulleys, it should be okay.

Next. Open the door. Hand push in the door safety switch to bottom it out. Hold the button in and start the dryer. If the same condition exists, the door safety button is working as it should.

If the dryer begins to run normally, the button is either defective or not being fully depressed when the door is closed.

Without starting the dryer, hand rotate the drum to be sure it is not bound up, jammed or extremely difficult to turn. Should be some light drag resistance to turning until it begins to rotate.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

If you need further assistance, use the reply button to add any additional information or questions. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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  #73  
Old 02-11-04, 09:50 AM
oneofseven
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Question Thanks....Need a little instruction

Thanky Thanky Host Supreme!!!
And Fast too!!

You said, "To check the belt, remove the access panel and check it."

Just how does one open this sucker up anyway?
 
  #74  
Old 02-11-04, 10:13 AM
dryerslave
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Question Any dryers installable outside?

Howdy. I am wondering if anyone knows of a type/brand of electric clothes dryer that can be used outside under a rain shelter. A level concrete slab was poured outside for this purpose and the correct outlet installed, so I'd really like to see if there's a dryer, pref. Energy Star and affordable, that can reliably work outside and maybe even be covered under warranty. I live in Phoenix, so there's not much moisture, but it still rains once in awhile. Anyone? Buehler?
 
  #75  
Old 02-11-04, 11:57 AM
SamNglenallen
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what next?

It is still popping the breaker.

Sam
 
  #76  
Old 02-11-04, 01:32 PM
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Hello: dryerslave. Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

I personally do not know of any brand more well designed for outdoor usage. Appliances using electrical power must be protected from direct contact with rain.

A covered or sheltered area free from direct exposure to the elements of weather, especicially rain, should pose no problems.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

If you need further assistance, use the reply button to add any additional information or questions. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
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  #77  
Old 02-11-04, 08:20 PM
JRichmond
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Thanks a lot for your help. I replaced the bearing, belt, and gliders, and the dryer works like new again.

Jim Richmond
 
  #78  
Old 02-12-04, 02:18 AM
Ed-Diesel
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Unhappy Whirlpool Dryer not working - Help!

I recently replaced the heating element on the dryer. After changing that i noticed that the dryer itself started getting really hot, so hot infact that it melted the plastic lint trap cover.
Now the dryer won't work at all. When I push the start button I get Nothing.
Any Suggestions?
 
  #79  
Old 02-12-04, 06:29 AM
CoolKat
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This sounds like the blower is blocked, or the venting is plugged, and not allowing the heat to be taken away down the vent line.
Also, I'm worried as to why the high limit thermostat didn't shut this off. first thing, make sure that good air flow is coming out of the back of the dryer. Then I would check the high limit thermostat that should be ON the heater can that the element is in, to verify that it has continuity, and that it is correctly connected in line with the element. Also insure that the element is attached correctly to the dryer, if it is not, then the heat will not transfer thru the drum and out the vent.
 
  #80  
Old 02-12-04, 07:07 AM
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Hello: Ed. Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Minor clarification needed. When you say nothing works, does that mean the drum doesn't even turn? Or does the drum rotate but there isn't any heat?

Have you checked for electrical current to the appliance? If nothing works means the entire dryer is inoperative, the electrical circuit power to the appliance may be out.

Check the electrical panel for a tripped circuit breaker. Some tripped breakers appear to be on when they are not. The breaker simply does not snap over to the off side fully. Try turning it off and than back on.

If there is power to the appliance, turn it off. Check the dryers electrical system for a blown fuse. Run some continuity tests on electrical componets. Test the door safety switch, start button and timer, high limit temp switch, etc. for continuity.

Based on those findings, the part or circuit causing the problem may be located. Safety Warning: >Be sure the electrical power is turned off before attempting any continuity testing.<

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Another possibility may be to search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe which also needs to be downloaded but worth having the Adobe once obtained.

http://www.whirlpool.com
(copy & paste into browser)

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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