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  #81  
Old 02-12-04, 05:42 PM
Renea
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Unhappy Dryer is Cold

Hi! I have a Kennmore Dryer, Model #16210100. About 2 years ago the "heating element" went out and had to be replaced. Well now the dryer is not heating again, and I assume it is the element again. Is this what you guys think? I want to try and fix this myself if I can...how hard would it be?????

I'm not that mechanically incline, I just put together a 6'x4' entertainment center and did a pretty good job (it's still standing

).

Thanks for your help!
 
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  #82  
Old 02-12-04, 05:49 PM
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One thing to try is it take the vent loose. If it is stopped up the dryer will heat up correctly. If not, then it very well could be another heating element...
 
  #83  
Old 02-12-04, 05:53 PM
Renea
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Thanks...

Yeah, I took the hose off last night...cleared the lint out and reattached it...still cold...

Thanks for the advice!
 
  #84  
Old 02-12-04, 05:53 PM
Stacey03
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Dryer Woes

I am pretty sure that the start button is the culprit of my recent woes. I got a price of $55 dollars for the part alone. Is this a job for a professional. The whirlpool electric dryer is 9 years old and I'm wondering if it is worth replacing the part.
 
  #85  
Old 02-12-04, 06:27 PM
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Congrats on the entertainment center!
Now the dryer, when you changed the element, did you also change the thermostats? You have a fuse box or a breaker box? Door sealing off good? Any rubbing sounds as the tub turns? Thi smay be a mute point, but did you have to stretch the element or was it already stranded? Have you unplugged the dryer and checked to see if all wire connections are tight? This dryer has the cardridge type element right? The element fits in a cage like enclosure? If so, was the it placed back and fitted to the bulkhead ( panel behind drum )properly so that it seals off? Might want to check these things out and lets hope the timer does not have burnt contacts . Seems kind of odd that the element did not last longer than it did.
 
  #86  
Old 02-12-04, 07:13 PM
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Unplug and check all connections at the terminal block. Make sure they are tight. Check the element for a short. The element may have been damaged when it sagged against the cage. Make sure you put a good crimp on the spade connector on the wire you cut back. I'm thinking this may have been made by White Westinghouse, not sure. Some of them were known to do this ( burn the wire). I remember having this problem once and having to redo the high heat spade connector and replacing the wire with a bigger wire. I was not to fond of going to a bigger wire, but was advised to by someone else with a lot more experience than me. Trace the wire that burned and make sure it did not melt somewhere else and touching the cabinet. Check the other end of it for damage also. Does it splice off and go to timer and motor? I'm old, starting to forget .
 
  #87  
Old 02-12-04, 08:20 PM
royandfam
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Try the fuse/breaker 1st

My brother-in-law had the same problem and was taking his dryer apart when I suggested checking his fuse panel. There are two "legs" to the 220v circuit - one runs the dryer and the other is connected to the heating element. If you have fuses, you need to check both. If a breaker system, you should have a double 220v breaker, but sometimes one side can be tripped.

If that's OK, it's probably the element again.

An old repair man once told me the worst thing you can use in an electric dryer is dryer sheets. They have a residue that builds up on the element and eventually can cause breaks in the coils. Try using a fabric softener in the washer instead to avoid future problems.

My Kenmore dryer is almost 30 years old and still works great, but I've had to replace belts and elements more than once.
 
  #88  
Old 02-13-04, 07:23 PM
SamNglenallen
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Wow...what do they say~~~when it rains it pours!!!...LOL!

Thanx to all of you for you info...you all were right (kinda)...

1. breaker popping but varying symptoms...
2. upon investigation, found probs with heating element mounts that led to a short in the element>>>led to a shorted/melted wire..
3. Apparently a weakened breaker...NEW BREAKER installed...

***BAM!!!

4. Breaker kicking off before I even had the DRYER pluged in????

5.(20 yo house we bought)...(meaning lots of lil (probably illegal, definately stupid mods done by previous inhabitants)...
DANG if I don't find another circuit tapped into the dryer outlet when I remove the cover...SEEMS someone wanted to power the storage shed some years back.

6. Now back-tracking...We had severe damage from Hurricane Isabel...and just finished the repairs...THE DAY BEFORE THE BIG FREEZE AND SNOW STORM (that we just defrosted from)...
We had 8 trees removed and 9 stumps ground down @1.5' below the surface...

Me thinks that probably the stump grinder came close enough to that mistery cable run...close enough to introduce moisture but not actually cut the line...after a week of thawing and soggy ground it got to it enough to cause a ground fault!

So, I disconnected that link, reset the breaker, pluged in the dryer and am finishing the last load of laundry as I type...

Thanx again!!!

Sam
 
  #89  
Old 02-14-04, 02:27 PM
troyjm
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Electric clothes dryer

Hello,
I have a 8 year old Whirlpool electric clothes dryer that makes noise when in use. I lifted up the top of the machine and noticed the belt around the drum is still intact but it still makes a bumping noise when going around. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
 
  #90  
Old 02-14-04, 03:00 PM
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Hello troyjm and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Noise is a common problem when the drum rollers wear out on some models. Some dryers do not use rollers. Instead they use pads called gliders or sliders. Some dryers use both rollers and glider or slider pads in combination.

What the noise indicates is those parts have become wornout and the drum is rotating on the support bracket and not on the intended parts. May also be the fan blower, the motor, belt etc. To correct the condition, it will be necessary to replace any and all worn parts.

In order to accomplish this task, the dryers top and front panel will need to be removed. Attached to the front panel will be the drums support bracket. On most models the slider or glider pads will be located on the top of the support bracket.

I highly suggest you clean out all lint inside the cabinet and clean out the entire exhaust system, while in the repair process.

Write down the make, model and serial numbers and visit the local appliance retail parts store in or near your home. There you will find the needed replacement parts and helpful information.

Regarding the belts positioning over, under and/or around the pulleys, my best suggestion is to make a hand drawing of the locations and positions prior to removing the old belt.

While your attempting this do-it-yourself project, a few words of caution and suggestions may be in order. Be sure to turn unplug the appliance or turn off the electrical power ot it.

Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book.

Read several of the already asked questions on dryers which are making noises within this forum. Doing so will provide you with plenty of additional information on the problem and how to correct it.

Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals which may be available online. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe which also needs to be downloaded but worth having the Adobe once obtained.

If you need further assistance, use the reply button to add any additional information or ask additional questions after attempting the correctional method or methods offered.

Regards & Good Luck, Forum Host & Multiple Topic Moderator.
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  #91  
Old 02-14-04, 08:21 PM
cajon ken
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The drum rollers for your dryer are on the back panel. Once you remove the drum you will be able to see them. The little plastic triangle clip is all that is holding the roller on the spindle and it can be pried off with a little screwdriver or a knife. If it breaks they are not expensive but are needed. Once the roller is off take a rag and clean the spindle. If the spindle looks worn then you will need to purchase that also. When changing out the rollers I always use a faint touch of a greasless lubricant on the spindle before installing the roller to ensure it to be free-rolling. Good luck on your project.
 
  #92  
Old 02-15-04, 12:18 PM
funsummer1
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dryer spins but no heat

i have a 24" stackable kenmore washer and dryer. the dryers spins but no heat is coming out. i tried the circuit breaker outside the house but that did not do the trick. i read the manual and it said to replace the fuse. where is the fuse in a stackable dryer?
thanks.
 
  #93  
Old 02-15-04, 03:56 PM
heather128
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Unhappy Dryer starts and then stops

I have a Whirlpool Dryer and when it is started it will warm up and then shut down 5-10 minutes later. We have cleaned the entire lint system in the dryer and it still does the same thing. Please Help!!
 
  #94  
Old 02-16-04, 06:19 AM
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Hello funsummer1 and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

I doubt the fuse is the cause of the no heat problem. Most likely the electric heating element is burned out. Replacing it should resolve the problem. Be sure the power is turned off before attempt any repairs.

For more detailed information etc. read the recent existing questions pertaining to dryers which do not heat within this forum. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question.

These prior postings and any or all the replies offered within them contain almost all the required information needed pertaining to the many potential and or possible problems with the appliance like your describing.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Another possibility may be to search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe which also needs to be downloaded but worth having the Adobe once obtained.

DIY'S Appliance Parts and Accessories Shopping Center.
http://doityourself.com/store/applianceparts.htm
(copy & re-paste into browser)

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #95  
Old 02-16-04, 06:36 AM
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Hello heather128 and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Try totally disconnecting the vent from the back of the dryer and dry a load. If the same problem exists we can be sure the venting system is cleared. If not, check the exhaust vents hood flapper door. That may be stuck or not opening fully.

Other possibilities. The timer may be defective or the motor is over heating and shutting down. The thermal fuse may be defective. That part is located in the venting system on the exhaust vent pipe within the dryer.

For more detailed information etc. read the recent postings within this forum. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question.

These prior postings and any or all the replies offered within them contain almost all the required information needed pertaining to the many potential and or possible problems with the appliance like your describing.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Another possibility may be to search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe which also needs to be downloaded but worth having the Adobe once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
 
  #96  
Old 02-16-04, 05:09 PM
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Hello: Stacey03

The price of the part may not seem costly if it solves the problem. And it may be worth the cost to find out if it can. Better than replacing the entire appliance if the switch is the only part suspected to be the problem. Worth a try, in my opinion.

The part replacement can be a do it yourself task. Be sure the electrical power is turned off or the plug removed from the wall socket, which ever applies.

Remove the back panel cover and replace the switch yourself. Than reinstall the cover, plug the appliance back into the electrical outlet or trun on the power and note the results.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #97  
Old 02-16-04, 07:02 PM
cajon ken
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You did not say what your dryer woes were so I am assuming that it will not start and that you have checked the door switch ( which is usually the culprit on a "wont start" problem. If you were handy around electricity you could momentarily jumper the terminals on the start switch to see if things would go "udden-udden". If they do then the start switch is the culprit. Please do not try to make your dryer go "udden-udden" if your are not handy & comfortable around electricity. One thing you could do would be to take the dryer to a repair shop yourself. That would save the price of a service charge plus the shop would have everything needed available right there. Good luck. Let us know how it all works out.
 
  #98  
Old 02-16-04, 07:21 PM
cajon ken
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some dryers do have a safety fuse on them but they dont look like a car fuse or a house fuse. These are about 1 1/2" to 2" long and about 3/4" wide. They have 2 terminals for wires and they are held on to usually the backside of the wall that the rear of the drum is mounted to with 1 hex-head screw.
 
  #99  
Old 02-16-04, 07:31 PM
cajon ken
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I forgot to mention that I really think your problem may be a bad thermostat. That is what controls the heat by cycling on and off at a preset temperature rate. If the Tstat is faulty by remaining in an "open" state,(like a broken wire would be "open"), then you will not get the voltage to the element and so no heat. The motor would still run but the timer dial in the "AUTO" or "PERMENANT PRESS" cycle would never move. It would move in the "TIMED" cycle though. Hope some of this helps you.
 
  #100  
Old 02-18-04, 09:51 AM
greenayed
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Cannot change dryer settings

For the last year my Kenmore dryer will run continually until you open the door to stop it. When the mood strikes it, it will sound its buzzer like it's finished but keeps on running. Also, I can't change the settings-it stays on high heat. If I turn the knob it makes a terrible sound like when you tighten your car's gas cap too tightly.
 
  #101  
Old 02-18-04, 01:07 PM
kraig
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Dryer Heat wont turn off!

I have a Maytag dryer and unless the timer times out the heat stays on. So if I open the door early to pull out the clothes then shut the door, the heat stays on unless I turn the dryer back on and let it time out. Sometimes my wife forgets and the heat stays on for day or two before we catch it. This isnt normal is it? Any ideas?
 
  #102  
Old 02-18-04, 03:46 PM
cajon ken
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I think you may have a bad door switch that is stuck in the ON position. Try this. Leave your timer at a spot where the heat stays on even when you have the door open the You can take the front of the dryer off by first UNPLUGGING THE CORD FROM THE WALL. Then remove the 2 phillips-head screws near the bottom of the panel just under the crease in the metal. 1 screw on each side. Now swing the panel up from the bottom 6- 7" and it should disengaged from the top. There are 2 wires that go to the door switch. Remove them from their terminals. You will need to somehow insulate those 2 wire ends to make sure they wont come in contact with any metal. I have used 2 marshmellows one time and another time 2 sandwich bags & paper towels. Once you are satisfied they are out of the way of any metal AND YOU plug the dryer in and see if the heat is now off or still on. If off you can check the switch with a meter. It should show open at first and then when you hold the button in it should show closed or zero. If it shows open both ways then the switch is bad. If not????? Something else is holding the voltage across the elements. Possible timer.?
 
  #103  
Old 02-18-04, 04:35 PM
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Arrow Electric Dryer Help Information

Hello and welcome to the electric appliances forum topic.

Below is basic help information pertaining to all electric dryers. The information is rewritten in easy to understand language. Taken from multiple sources and based upon basic appliance diagnostic services.

It is highly suggested checking the basics before assuming there is a mechanical problem or part failure before attempting any repairs.

Safety Concerns:
Be sure the dryer is disconnected from the electrical power source before attempting any inspections and or repairs.

Do not use or store gasoline, flammable liquids or any products which produce flammable vapors near an electric dryer or any other any electric appliance.

Helpful Dryer Problem Diagnosing and Repairing Information:

DRYER DOES NOT RUN:
If the dryer does not run at all, be sure the door is fully closed.
Is the electrical cord plugged in? Open the door and reclose it.

Restart the dryer. Has a fuse blown in the electrical panel or a breaker switch tripped? Check for a fuse. Not all dryers have a fuse.

Broken belt. If the belt broke, the dryer will not run at all. There is a micro safety switch on the belt tensioning arm. When the belt brakes, the tensioning arm springs away from the switch. All dryer action stops. Belt replacement is required. Refer to belts below.

The start button {if equipped with one} could also be defective. To determine this, the appliance must be unplugged from the electrical power source first. Access to the button will have to be made by removing the back panel. A continuity test can be performed.

The timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely soley on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

If the dryer does not start up and the belt is not broken, suspect the door switch. To test, unplug the machine from the electrical power source. Remove the front panel. Access the wires clips on terminals. Test for continuity using an ohm and or continuity test meter.

There should be continuity. If not, the switch is defective and needs to be replaced. Operating the push button by hand during the test will also determine if it working constantly as the button is pushed in and let out. The results can be seen on the tester.

If there is a fuse, when removed from it's holder and or not passing current, under a visual inspection only, the internal filament looks and appears fine. A continuity test may reveal an open circuit in a fuse that other wise looks visually fine.

Dryers with touch pad controls use electronic computerized circuit boards. This part could be removed and taken to the local appliance parts dealer for testing. Repairing is not often an option.

DRYER DOES NOT HEAT:
Check the control panel selections.
Set the controls to heat. Check the heat settings.

DRYER DOES NOT PROVIDE MUCH HEAT:
Clean the lint filter and clean and inspect the exhaust ducting.

Be sure the hood flapper outside is opening and moving freely. Be sure there is no bends, kinks or restrictions to or in the venting.

Check the hot surface glow element. It should be glowing. If not, first check the control panel. If the element is still not glowing, read the hot surface element section below.

Fuseable Link. Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

The temperature control sensors may be defective. They should be located on the fan blowers housing. There is also a moisture sensor and a high limit temp sensor. Any one of them could be defective and or inoperative.

Sensors can be checked for electrical continutiy using a ohm meter. As well as the temp selector switch. Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off or the appliance is unpluged from the wall recepticule.

NOISEY DRYER:
Check the load for objects such as coins, nails, buttons or any other non cloth objects.

NOISE CAUSED BY BELTS:
Belts may also cause squealing/slipping sounds or noises. If this is the case, belt replace must be done. Be aware, some belts have two different sides. One side must face up on the drum.

Regarding the belts positioning over, under and/or around the pulleys, my best suggestion is to make a hand drawing of the locations and positions prior to removing the old belt.

Refer to the drawing when installing the new replacement belt to be positive it is correctly positioned on the drum and routed on the pulleys. Then store that drawing within the dryers upper rear removable panel for future use.

NOISE CAUSED BY DRUM ROLLERS, GLIDERS & SLIDER PADS:
Noise is a common problem when the drum rollers, gliders or slider pads wear out. Slider or glider pads are located on the inside of the front door panel. Replacement of these parts should be easy on most models.

Drum rollers will have clips or pins which can be removed with needle nose pliers. There are or may also be brass or bronze bushings on the roller stems that the wheels attach to.

Some dryers have a rear drum bearing. Noise occurs when the part wears out. Replacement is the only solution. Belt removal is required. Refer to BELTS above.

HEATING ELEMENT:
If all the controls are set correctly on the front control panel and the dryer is running and the element fails to glow, the element most likely will need to be replaced.

CONTROL KNOB ADVANCES SLOWLY:
For most dryers this is normal operation when set in the Auto Dry cycle. Once the load begins to dry the timer control will begin to advance. The rate of advancement will begin slowly at first because of the moisture content.

As the load dries, the advancement will advance more quickly. Dryers with moisture sensers will control the timer advancement in cycles where that function is operatable. All normal operations are based upon the cycles selected.

LOADS DRY UNEVENLY:
Seams, pockets and heavy fabic areas may not dry equally compared to other items in the load. This is a normal condition. Either remove the dried items or use a cycle that allows more drying time.

MOTORS:
Before attempting any motor removals or repairs, try turning the drum by hand. It should have a slight drag with no binding and make several rotations.

If the drum rotates well by hand, the motor may be burned out or defective. If the drum exhibits heavy drag, binding, jamming or grinding type noises etc. there could be drum roller parts wornout or a damage or jammed fan blower, etc.

Basic procedures for removing the motor is to unplug the dryer first. Remove the exhaust vent line. Then remove the rear access panel.

Do not forget to make a hand drawing on paper of exactly how the belt is looped over, around and under each pulley before removing the belt. Same applies to all electrical fittings that needs to be moved or removed.
Then remove the motor. Once an electrical test is done and it can be confirmed that the motor is defective, it can either be replaced with a new motor or possibly rebuilt. Electric motor repair shops are list in the phone directory.

ODORS:
Odors may be caused by the usage of petroleum based products. Products like oil based paints, varnishes, stains, cleaning chemicals, adhesives or any flammable petroleum based product, it will cause an odor.

If the odor smells like a kerosene odor it is usually nothing to worry about. Especially if you are presently or have been recently using an type of petroleum based and or oil based product. The odor is caused by the burning of the invisable vapors the product gives off until it dries or cures. Ventilating the area or entire house helps to resolve the problem.

After using any product with a petroleum base it may take several days for the product to dry fully and cure. After being inside for awhile, you will get use to the smell and do not smell the fumes. Perfectly normal.

If clothes retain the smell after drying, at the end of the drying cycle, use the "No Heat" or "Air Fluff" cycle for about 10 minutes to ventilate the fumes before removing the clothes.

Doing so will vent out the odor from the clothes. Be sure to return the timer back to the prior heat setting when done.

DRYER SERVICE AND SAFETY TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Rigid Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
#of elbows:
0 elbows...44 feet
1 elbow....34 feet
2 elbows..26 feet
3 elbows..20 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...34 feet
1 elbow....26 feet
2 elbows..20 feet
3 elbows..14 feet

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Flexible Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
0 elbows...24 feet
1 elbow....20 feet
2 elbows..16 feet
3 elbows..12 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...20 feet
1 elbow....16 feet
2 elbows..12 feet
3 elbows....8 feet

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations,
disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals, which may be available online.

Read the do-it-yourself appliance parts and accessories pages.
DIY'S Electric Appliances Pages:
http://doityourself.com/appliance/index.shtml
http://doityourself.com/store/applianceparts.htm
http://doityourself.com/store/plumbing.htm
(copy and repaste into browser)

Additional DIY Appliance Help Pages:
DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

DIY'S Small Appliances Pages:
http://doityourself.com/smallap/index.shtml

DIY'S Gas Appliances Pages:
Ranges, Stoves, Ovens and Appliance Tips.
http://doityourself.com/gasapp/index.shtml

DIY'S Small Appliances Pages:
http://doityourself.com/smallap/index.shtml

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers within this
forum topic. Doing so will quickly provide you with additional answers to questions and helpful information on how to diagnose conditions and resolve the problems.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the
most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers.

Try searching this forums page for questions pertaining to dryers. Doing so will bring up the questions already asked and the replies provided in them. The search option is below to the right. Type in the 2 most common key search words. Dryer or dryers.

This helpful information will be edited and or updated as needed. Check back often. To print this page, below is the Show Printable Version link to provide a printer friendly page.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 02-26-04 at 05:08 AM.
  #104  
Old 02-18-04, 04:58 PM
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Hello greenayed and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

If the heat selection control is difficult to turn and makes the knid of noises described, replacement is the best solution. Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off or the electrical cord is removed from the wall socket first.

Most commonly when the dryer does not shut off automatically, the timer is defective. It remains stuck in one setting and does not advance to the end of the cycle. Replacement is the only option.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the electric dryer help information at the topic of this forum for additional help.

Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Another possibility may be to search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe which also needs to be downloaded but worth having the Adobe once obtained.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. Filling in to help in this forum topic.
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #105  
Old 02-18-04, 05:37 PM
cclshome
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Inspect the inner and outer surfaces of your entire belt.

My dryer was making a thumping noises every time the drum went around. Turns out the belt was disintegrating. Chunks of rubber had fallen off the belt in small sections, leaving only the inner cords. Every time these bare sections passed through the drive motor pulley and nearby tensioner, the motor slipped a little and the tensioner jumped, both of which made thumping sounds. It took me a while to figure it out.
 
  #106  
Old 02-19-04, 04:06 PM
cajon ken
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If there is a drawing or schematic it would probably be attached to the inside of the back control panel cover. If not there look on the inside of the main back panel. Most of the time tyhough they are somewhere around the control panel. Drum stops turning when door is opened but element is still heating?? I started another sentence 3 or 4 times but dont know what to say. It is very baffling. Dont know another way for a complete circuit except through the door switch. Perhaps one of our experts here at the forum will be able to help.
 
  #107  
Old 02-20-04, 04:34 AM
kraig
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Exactly Cajun Ken, the drum stops but the heat stays on. I will take this thing apart this weekend and put my meter to it. Judging from my searches this does not seem like a common problem at all.
 
  #108  
Old 02-20-04, 06:47 AM
jimraelee
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Unhappy dryer squeeking

Hello all.... Ive got one of those kenmore dryers (417.69042991) its the match to the stackable front loader washer model... came out a few years ago... any hoot... damm dryer makes a nasty squeek when running. Ive opened the top and identified the noise to be comming from the rear where the heater unit is and not the belt or idler pulley... greased them already and even opened the vented door at the bottom to find no noise there.. definatly comming from the middle back area... there must be some type of bearing or bushing in the middle that the drum rotates on. Anyone have this issue???? dont want to rip out the drum if theres a easy fix
 
  #109  
Old 02-20-04, 09:15 AM
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Hello: jimraelee

Check the glider/slider pads the drum rotates on. Usually causes for noises when wornout. If the drum has screws in the bottom center, there is a type of bearing or bushings there. The drum has to be removed to access those assembly parts.

Be sure to disconnect the power and make a hand drawing of how the belt loops around and or over the pulleys before removing the belt. Often forgot to be done, only later to discover it is sometimes difficult to remember how to reinstall it.

Causes for noise can be found in the dryer help info topic at the top of the list of questions in this forum.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Filling in to help in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #110  
Old 02-20-04, 10:05 AM
jimraelee
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Hey Sharp... thx for the info.. Ill lookinto it today... I figure there is some bushing in the back that must be worn thru giving the metal on metal squeeking sound.. .just didnt want to tear apart the wifee's dryer without doing some investigating first... And yes, pictures are always your best friend when going into unterrirtory... but ive modernized.. DIGITAL CAMERA.. they make far better pics than I can draw.. he he he
 
  #111  
Old 02-20-04, 10:32 AM
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Hi: Jim

Digital camera? EXCELLENT! The modern age. Not all our members have such cameras. So, not knowing whom does and whom does not, over the years I have advised to make a hand drawing how the belt loops.

The camera is surely a better way to go. Even better than some web pics which are generic or difficult to see, etc. Some dryer mfgs include pictures in the owners manuals while some do not.

Others provide plenty of online help info using downloadable pdf files. Which help plenty for the diy person whom is handy. Congrats to mfgs whom provide such.

When the task is completed, post back the final results to share with other members. Helping others to fix their appliance problems is sharing, caring and learning. Thanks.
 
  #112  
Old 02-20-04, 04:30 PM
cajon ken
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Perhaps we are overthinking this problem. If the heat is staying on ALL DAY how come it hasn't burnt up yet or at the least taken out the safety Tstat. I think there is a problem with the other leg of 120V. Doesn't that come in through the motor start switch. Can't remember right now. So I think you are only getting 120V all the time not 240V( with the door open ) which would still give off heat but at a quantity that would cause the temperature to climb high enough to trip the safety Tstat. OMO
 
  #113  
Old 02-22-04, 09:44 AM
jimraelee
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dryer squeeking

well all... tore down the dryer yesterday.. nto too hard... pulled the drum out.. and theres not the typical roller bearing in the back... its a ball socket type.. and there was a bunch of build up in the plastic socket... so cleaned out the tar that had formed in there.... probably from all the dryer lint flying around when the dryer is running.. .and put back together... two loads later and still no squeek...
 
  #114  
Old 02-22-04, 10:56 AM
Mglines
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Mostlikely its a grounded element getting power fromt he timer side. Which means it would heat witht he door open or the timer in any setting that calls for heat(except off setting). If it had grounded where it was getting power thru the motor side then it would cut off when the door was opened. Also it probably h asnt burnt all the way out because the hi limit Tstat is still cycling to keep it from getting above 300 degree's.
 
  #115  
Old 02-25-04, 03:51 PM
elrothir
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Checking dryer seal

Hello. I have a Kenmore 110.86874100 dryer that is drying clothes too slowly. I have read a lot of the other posts about this kind of thing and I think it is the rear drum seal, but how can I tell if that's it? If I open the dryer door and look at the back of the drum, I don't see any torn areas or cracks in the seal there. I popped the top on the dryer and looked at the drum from that angle. The seal on the back of the drum there looks okay, but it is not glued/attached to the back of the dryer. Should it be? If I wiggle the drum, I can see inside the dryer and vice-versa(if I'm looking inside the dryer and wiggle it around, I can see out). I haven't seen anything that says if it should be glued to the back of the dryer or not. Thanks for any help!
elrothir
 
  #116  
Old 02-25-04, 04:37 PM
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Hello: elrothir

Taking a long time to dry due to a dryer seal is not the most likely cause. A restricted exhaust vent is more likely. Read the electric dryer help information topic at the topic of the forums list of questions.

In that post will be the info on how to diagnose a venting problem and correct it. As well as the slide or glide pads the drum rotates on and most other common dryer problems. Doing so will help you quickly find the problem and fix it.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Helping out in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
 
  #117  
Old 02-26-04, 05:09 AM
appliancepresid
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elrother,
The rear felt drum seal is only glued to drum and not the rear bulkhead.

Are your clothes coming out HOT and DAMP? at the end of a normal dry cycle?

If so, It is like Sharp Advise said check for a restriced vent.
 
  #118  
Old 03-06-04, 07:40 PM
ziggy
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Who makes Kenmore Dryers?

Can anyone tell me how to find out who makes Kenmore Dryers. The model number is 110.62802101
Thanks
 
  #119  
Old 03-07-04, 04:31 PM
appliancepresid
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depends on the first 3 digits of the model number that would be the source number for sears such asj11j said/

110. whirlpool brand
363. is ge
etc...

and the first and third numbers after the decimal is the year

in yours would indicate 1968

however that system does not work on the newer models now.
 
  #120  
Old 03-08-04, 10:10 PM
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Posts: 109
Question Small Holes Burned Into Clothing

I have a Whirlpool Electric Dryer that is burning small holes into some of my clothing. When I took a look inside, I noticed that there is a small metal looking plate with holes that is 3/4 rusted. Could this be the culprit and if not, does it need replaced anyway?
 
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