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  #121  
Old 03-13-04, 12:48 PM
cnrhensley
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Angry whirpool dryer : timer doesn't work at anything but the 20 minute mark

My dryers timer will not operate on any setting other than the 20 minute timed dry, and even when you turn the dial to get it started you don't need to press the start button.....it starts on it's own. It looks like someone has been 'in the controls' prior to my getting it. Does anyone know what could be wrong ?
 
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  #122  
Old 03-14-04, 07:07 AM
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Hello: Chris. Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

If you suspect someone else tampered with the machine, we have to assume it isn't a new appliance or one you have had and suddenly it began having this problem.

The timers internal motor may be defective or too weak to rotate the timer against the pressure of the internal contact points.

Timer replacement should than solve the problem. The part is available at any local appliance parts dealer which will be listed in the phone book.

Read the manufacturers online web site for problem possibilities, solving methods, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, downloadable repair manuals, etc which may be available online.

Search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe, which also needs to be downloaded first but worth having once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Helping out in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

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  #123  
Old 03-19-04, 08:19 PM
wirespider01
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Question Admiral Dryer Keeps Blowing Thermal Fuse

Its model# ADE20N3V. (ADMIRAL)

The blower assembely is working fine and the duct work is clean (checked it from the inside of the door all the way outside). the thermal fuse has blowed 3 times now.

I have replaced the High limit switch along with Thermal Fuse (as it states to do in fuse pack) every time. Although im not sure there is anything wrong at all with the high limit switch but it claims it should open before the fuse blows.

Anyhow it has 2 thermostats down at the bottom of the dryer that sensers the inside of the blower housing.

It gets to got to touch first down around the outside of the bottom where the blower is located (which is working fine) then the top gets hot and *POP* goes the thermal fuse.

Im guessing that one of the 2 thermostats on the blower housing is the lower limit switch, not sure what the other one is.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.
Wade.
 
  #124  
Old 03-20-04, 06:12 AM
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Hello: Wade. Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Not exactly sure an electrical problem like the description you posted can be exaclty resolved here. The problem for us is not only the dryer may have a problem, but possibily the power source or the recepticule into which the dryer is connected.

If you replaced some parts already, the assumption is they where purchased at a local appliance parts dealer. Wondering if they where able to offer some assistance or product advice.

Since they deal with the products which they sell the parts for an may also have service personal out working on the appliances, they might beable to shed some specific possible causes.

Such as any part which regulates currents within the dryer so only 200-240 volts is applied to the heating elelment(s) and not to the controls, sensors or safety switch in the door, etc. Grounding may be a possible cause too.

Have you read the manufacturers online web site for problem possibilities, solving methods, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, downloadable repair manuals, etc which may be available online? May be helpful to do so.

Search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe, which also needs to be downloaded first but worth having once obtained.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Helping out in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #125  
Old 03-21-04, 06:17 PM
wirespider01
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Question hustlermann the ADE20N3V is the Electric Dryer. Any Ideas?

Original Post

Its model# ADE20N3V. (ADMIRAL)

The blower assembely is working fine and the duct work is clean (checked it from the inside of the door all the way outside). the thermal fuse has blowed 3 times now.

I have replaced the High limit switch along with Thermal Fuse (as it states to do in fuse pack) every time. Although im not sure there is anything wrong at all with the high limit switch but it claims it should open before the fuse blows.

Anyhow it has 2 thermostats down at the bottom of the dryer that sensers the inside of the blower housing.

It gets to got to touch first down around the outside of the bottom where the blower is located (which is working fine) then the top gets hot and *POP* goes the thermal fuse.

Im guessing that one of the 2 thermostats on the blower housing is the lower limit switch, not sure what the other one is.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.
Wade.
 
  #126  
Old 03-21-04, 10:22 PM
cajungrrl33
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Question Gas dryer to electric

I just bought a used dryer from a friend, and she told me that it could be gas or electric. It has been hooked up as gas. We went to Home Depot to get the pigtails, and when we came home and opened the back of the dryer, therre was nothing to hook them up to. Is there any way to change a dryer over to electric from gas?
 
  #127  
Old 03-22-04, 05:53 AM
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Hello: Wade

First thought is the blower motor may be running, but is it doing so at the correct speed. A lack of air flow would cause over heating and continuous cycling on the high limit switch.

Several times doing so may burn the thermal fuse. A search for problems and causes may be found on the Mfg's web site or any number of appliance repair and or service web sites. Try a search.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Helping out in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-15-07 at 06:56 AM. Reason: Removed Obsolete Links
  #128  
Old 03-22-04, 06:04 AM
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Hello cajungrrl33 and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

It's possible but not worth the time and or expense. Two totally different machines. Look the same outisde but not inside. Gas machines use 110 volts while electric dryers use 220-240 volts. Entire electrical systems different.

Ask at the local appliance parts stores. The pros there will advise against any conversions knowing full well it is not an easy project nor one that is safe to do as a do it yourself project, etc.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas and or suggestions.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Helping out in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #129  
Old 03-26-04, 05:05 AM
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Dryer?

I have a Crosely dryer, and lately I have been noticing that my clothes are coming out with a smell of almost being overdried and a burning smell. I am not sure if it is from the dryer that I am getting the smell because our water also contains a good amount of iron in it, and we do not have it filtered from the well. I clean the filter after every dryer use, but I can't seem to figure out what it could be from. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Alaskani
 
  #130  
Old 03-26-04, 11:03 AM
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Hello: Alaskani

That odor wouldn't happen to smell like diesel fumes or kerosene would it? Recently started to smell?

Have you used any petroleum based products lately? Oil based paints, stains, polishes, adhesives or cleaning solvents? If so, the odor may be from any of them. Common condition. Not hazardous.

Well water may have high levels of phosphates, minerals, etc. May also be causing the condition. Notice any difference in the water else where? Dishwasher maybe?

Has the inside cabinet of the dryer been cleaned out of lint and dust recently? Burning lint and or dust inside the cabinet can also create the smell and or odor condition.

Using the reply button to update this thread with additional requested info. More help and advice is available, if needed.
 
  #131  
Old 03-30-04, 08:45 PM
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Dryer woas

I have a Kenmore 80 series heavy duty dryer that doesen't seem to be drying to well. I checked the lint tube to the outside vent and it was clear. My next guess is the heating element is gone out. Is that a difficult job? or is it something I can tackel here at home?
 
  #132  
Old 03-31-04, 06:01 AM
Sweet1
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Question Kenmore Dryer Model 110..96590140

Hello,

I have a dryer listed above and it stopped working. I checked everything except the Thermal Fuse. I have a diagram of where this is located in the Bulkhead. Can someone please tell me how to get to this location on this model number? What do I need to disassemble and how to get to this fuse? Please explain in simple terms. I am a female and have no clue what I am doing basically. I know this is the only thing left to check (except the motor) before calling a repair person out or buying a new dryer.

Thank you so much,
Susan (Sweet1)
 
  #133  
Old 03-31-04, 10:56 AM
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Hello: Hammerhead

If you can visually inspect the heating element(s) while the dryer is in operation, do so. Doing that would allow you to note if the element(s) are glowing at all or glowing dimly.

Once known which it is, replacement should not be difficult. Just be sure electrical power is turned off prior to attempting any repairs.

Besure to check the vent hoods interal flapper door valve to ensure it is opening and or opening fully. Also be sure there is not kinks or bends, etc in the vent tubing if it is a non solid metal type.

For more detailed information read the recent postings within this forum. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question. Those prior postings and all the replies offered within them contain almost all the required information needed.

Read the help information forum note pertaining to the appliance at the top of this forum for additional help.

Read the manufacturers online web site for problem possibilities, solving methods, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, downloadable repair manuals, etc which may be available online.

Search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe, which also needs to be downloaded first but worth having once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Helping out in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
 
  #134  
Old 03-31-04, 11:14 AM
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Hello: Susan

You make an interesting point to which I fully agree with you on. Your quote "Please explain in simple terms."

I always request and suggest anyone posting helpful advice do so in laymens terms, for the benefit of all concerned parties and do so in all forums.

Thanks for bring that point up too....

Always be sure the electrical power to any appliance about to be worked on in an attempt to fix it, is turn off prior. Safety is a major concern too.

Being female or male does not apply either. Both genders are helped and treated equally. We each do not have a clue what we are doing in all do it yourself tasks or projects at times, regardless of gender. If we did know what we are doing, we would not be asking for help...haha...

Some dryers access is gained from the top, front or back panels. Back panels are often the easiest. Front panels may require screws to be removed. They may be in the door frame or base of the machine. Models differ and a close visual inspection is needed.

Some models require the top panel to be removed first. Some slide forwards while some lift upwards once screws in the door frame are removed. Models vary.

You may be able to download a service repair manual or instructional pages from the manufacturers web site, if any are available. Checking moght be worth a try.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

For more detailed information read the recent postings within this forum. Read the help information forum note pertaining to dryer appliances at the top of this forum for additional help.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck. (Helping out in this forum topic)
Sharp Advice. TCB4U2B2B Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #135  
Old 03-31-04, 01:09 PM
Sweet1
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Smile Dryer assembly

Thanks for your reply. I actually used the dryer forum l(read this first) listing to try to find the problem. That was listed at the top of this forum. I put it all back together (the dryer) thinking it did not have a thermal fuse at all. Then I found my paperwork and diagram shows it does have a thermal fuse. I guess I am confused because the diagram shows the Vent out the back of the dryer, and calls this the BULKHEAD area? It looks like I have to take it all back apart and then follow to the inside back of the vent for this thermal heat fuse...UGH.

So, my only real question left is what is meant by the term "bulkhead" area? The cabinet is the lower part, and it has the front panel with the clips...so why or what is the bulkhead?

Thanks for trying to help. I have decided to let my husband come home tonight and find the part...best solution I think.

However, from your list I found it was not the dryer door switch, not the start button, and not the control dials. So has to be thermal fuse or the motor....



Susan
 
  #136  
Old 03-31-04, 04:35 PM
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Hello: Susan

A thermal fuse may be located on the exhaust vent near the exit outlet closest to or on the blower housing where the fan is located. Either location should work for the parts intended purpose.

In either of these location, bulkhead still does not apply. Fan housing and warm air discharge assembly would apply. Anyway, atleast there is a thermal fuse to locate and replace.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-15-07 at 06:58 AM. Reason: Removed Obsolete Links
  #137  
Old 04-02-04, 03:42 PM
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G E Dryer

I have a Model dde0580galwh ser. no. zs212371g,The dryer is overheating ,the drum will burn your hand.What is causing this,Thanks Bob
 
  #138  
Old 04-02-04, 07:02 PM
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Hello: Bob

Some info missing. Is the drum rotating? Is the fan blower working? Is the venting system cleaned out of lint? Not restricted?

Typical causes for overheating above. Check them and post back more detailed info. Use the reply button to do so.
 
  #139  
Old 04-03-04, 05:48 AM
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Dryer works fine,drum turning,fan working,and vent is not restricted. Thanks
 
  #140  
Old 04-03-04, 11:03 AM
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Arrow Electric Dryer Help & Information: Read This Page Also

Hello and Welcome to the "Electric Appliances" forum topic.

Below is basic help information pertaining to all electric dryers. The information is rewritten in easy to understand language. Taken from multiple sources and based upon basic appliance diagnostic services.

It is highly suggested checking the basics before assuming there is a mechanical problem or part failure before attempting any repairs.

Safety Concerns:
Be sure the dryer is disconnected from the electrical power source before attempting any inspections and or repairs.

Do not use or store gasoline, flammable liquids or any products which produce flammable vapors near an electric dryer or any other any electric appliance.

Helpful Dryer Problem Diagnosing and Repairing Information:

DRYER DOES NOT RUN:
If the dryer does not run at all, be sure the door is fully closed.
Is the electrical cord plugged in? Open the door and re-close it.

Restart the dryer. Has a fuse blown in the electrical panel or a breaker switch tripped? Check for a fuse. Not all dryers have a fuse.

Broken belt. If the belt broke, the dryer will not run at all. There is a micro safety switch on the belt tensioning arm. When the belt brakes, the tensioning arm springs away from the switch. All dryer action stops. Belt replacement is required. Refer to belts below.

The start button {if equipped with one} could also be defective. To determine this, the appliance must be unplugged from the electrical power source first. Access to the button will have to be made by removing the back panel. A continuity test can be performed.

The timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely solely on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

If the dryer does not start up and the belt is not broken, suspect the door switch. To test, unplug the machine from the electrical power source. Remove the front panel. Access the wires clips on terminals. Test for continuity using an ohm and or continuity test meter.

There should be continuity. If not, the switch is defective and needs to be replaced. Operating the push button by hand during the test will also determine if it working constantly as the button is pushed in and let out. The results can be seen on the tester.

If there is a fuse, when removed from it's holder and or not passing current, under a visual inspection only, the internal filament looks and appears fine. A continuity test may reveal an open circuit in a fuse that other wise looks visually fine.

Dryers with touch pad controls use electronic computerized circuit boards. This part could be removed and taken to the local appliance parts dealer for testing. Repairing is not often an option.

DRYER DOES NOT HEAT:
Check the control panel selections.
Set the controls to heat. Check the heat settings.

DRYER DOES NOT PROVIDE MUCH HEAT:
Clean the lint filter and clean and inspect the exhaust ducting.

Be sure the hood flapper outside is opening and moving freely. Be sure there is no bends, kinks or restrictions to or in the venting.

Check the hot surface glow element. It should be glowing. If not, first check the control panel. If the element is still not glowing, read the hot surface element section below.

Fuse-able Link. Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

The temperature control sensors may be defective. They should be located on the fan blowers housing. There is also a moisture sensor and a high limit temp sensor. Any one of them could be defective and or inoperative.

Sensors can be checked for electrical continuity using a ohm meter. As well as the temp selector switch. Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off or the appliance is unplugged from the wall receptacle.

NOISY DRYER:
Check the load for objects such as coins, nails, buttons or any other non cloth objects.

NOISE CAUSED BY BELTS:
Belts may also cause squealing/slipping sounds or noises. If this is the case, belt replace must be done. Be aware, some belts have two different sides. One side must face up on the drum.

Regarding the belts positioning over, under and/or around the pulleys, my best suggestion is to make a hand drawing of the locations and positions prior to removing the old belt.

Refer to the drawing when installing the new replacement belt to be positive it is correctly positioned on the drum and routed on the pulleys. Then store that drawing within the dryers upper rear removable panel for future use.

NOISE CAUSED BY DRUM ROLLERS, GLIDERS & SLIDER PADS:
Noise is a common problem when the drum rollers, gliders or slider pads wear out. Slider or glider pads are located on the inside of the front door panel. Replacement of these parts should be easy on most models.

Drum rollers will have clips or pins which can be removed with needle nose pliers. There are or may also be brass or bronze bushings on the roller stems that the wheels attach to.

Some dryers have a rear drum bearing. Noise occurs when the part wears out. Replacement is the only solution. Belt removal is required. Refer to BELTS above.

HEATING ELEMENT:
If all the controls are set correctly on the front control panel and the dryer is running and the element fails to glow, the element most likely will need to be replaced.

CONTROL KNOB ADVANCES SLOWLY:
For most dryers this is normal operation when set in the Auto Dry cycle. Once the load begins to dry the timer control will begin to advance. The rate of advancement will begin slowly at first because of the moisture content.

As the load dries, the advancement will advance more quickly. Dryers with moisture sensors will control the timer advancement in cycles where that function is operable. All normal operations are based upon the cycles selected.

LOADS DRY UNEVENLY:
Seams, pockets and heavy fabric areas may not dry equally compared to other items in the load. This is a normal condition. Either remove the dried items or use a cycle that allows more drying time.

MOTORS:
Before attempting any motor removals or repairs, try turning the drum by hand. It should have a slight drag with no binding and make several rotations.

If the drum rotates well by hand, the motor may be burned out or defective. If the drum exhibits heavy drag, binding, jamming or grinding type noises etc. there could be drum roller parts worn out or a damage or jammed fan blower, etc.

Basic procedures for removing the motor is to unplug the dryer first. Remove the exhaust vent line. Then remove the rear access panel.

Do not forget to make a hand drawing on paper of exactly how the belt is looped over, around and under each pulley before removing the belt. Same applies to all electrical fittings that needs to be moved or removed.

Then remove the motor. Once an electrical test is done and it can be confirmed that the motor is defective, it can either be replaced with a new motor or possibly rebuilt. Electric motor repair shops are list in the phone directory.

ODORS:
Odors may be caused by the usage of petroleum based products. Products like oil based paints, varnishes, stains, cleaning chemicals, adhesives or any flammable petroleum based product, it will cause an odor.

If the odor smells like a kerosene odor it is usually nothing to worry about. Especially if you are presently or have been recently using an type of petroleum based and or oil based product. The odor is caused by the burning of the invisible vapors the product gives off until it dries or cures. Ventilating the area or entire house helps to resolve the problem.

After using any product with a petroleum base it may take several days for the product to dry fully and cure. After being inside for awhile, you will get use to the smell and do not smell the fumes. Perfectly normal.

If clothes retain the smell after drying, at the end of the drying cycle, use the "No Heat" or "Air Fluff" cycle for about 10 minutes to ventilate the fumes before removing the clothes.

Doing so will vent out the odor from the clothes. Be sure to return the timer back to the prior heat setting when done.

DRYER SERVICE AND SAFETY TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Rigid Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
#of elbows:
0 elbows...44 feet
1 elbow....34 feet
2 elbows..26 feet
3 elbows..20 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...34 feet
1 elbow....26 feet
2 elbows..20 feet
3 elbows..14 feet

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Flexible Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
0 elbows...24 feet
1 elbow....20 feet
2 elbows..16 feet
3 elbows..12 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...20 feet
1 elbow....16 feet
2 elbows..12 feet
3 elbows....8 feet

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for additional product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, down loadable repair and or owners manuals, which may be available online.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers within this
forum topic. Doing so will quickly provide you with additional answers to questions and helpful information on how to diagnose conditions and resolve the problems.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers.

Try searching this forums page for questions pertaining to dryers. Doing so will bring up the questions already asked and the replies provided in them. The search option is below to the right. Type in the 2 most common key search words. Dryer or dryers.

This helpful information will be edited and or updated as needed. Check back often. To print this page, below is the Show Printable Version link to provide a printer friendly page.

Electric Appliance Parts & Repair:
Manufacturers Web Sites:

Sears:
http://www.sears.com
http://www3.sears.com

Maytag:
http://www.maytag.com

General Electric:
http://www.ge.com

Whirlpool:
http://www.whirlpool.com

Jen Air:
http://www.jennair.com

Amana:
http://www.amana.com

Bosch:
http://www.boschappliances.com

Roper:
http://www.roperappliances.com

Kitchenaid:
http://www.kitchenaid.com

Miele:
http://www.miele.com

Electrolux:
http://www.electrolux.com

Frigidaire:
http://www.frigidare.com

Staber:
http://www.staber.com

Appliance Parts, Pictures & Help:
http://www.PartSelect.com

Appliances Parts & Help:
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com

Kitchen Appliance Parts:
http://www.parts-depot.online.com

Appliance Parts, Pictures & Help:
http://www.PartSelect.com

Appliances Parts & Help:
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com

Kitchen Appliance Parts:
http://www.parts-depot.online.com

STOVES-RANGES-OVENS-BROILERS
For additional helpful information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159808. Reading this thread will provide information on how to diagnose and fix some problems.

WATER HEATER HELP LINK:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159797

GAS DRYER HELP LINK:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159481

TANK-LESS WATER HEATER HELP LINK:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=147262

WATER HEATER DRAINING AND FLUSHING INFO:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=134483

Electric Appliance Forum Water Heater Draining & Flushing Info:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=164120

Always consider the warranties and future service needs for any major appliances your considering purchasing. Price isn't always the best guide for long term appliance investments.

Disclaimer Notes:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several electrical parts. However, I do not recommend relying solely on either tests to determine if any electrical or electronic part or parts are causing the problem. The idea is not to replace costly parts until the defective one is found.

The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential problems. Have the local appliance parts store person test it or check it. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-15-07 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Obsolete Links Removed
  #141  
Old 04-26-04, 11:46 PM
jmolho
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
dryer vent lengths & cleaning (Specifications Enclosed)

I just purchased a new electric dryer for a condo that we are renting. Connecting from the dryer to the vent inlet in the laundry room seems pretty straightforward, but how do I verify that the rest of the 4" ducting is free of lint? The vent runs through the floor into the (relatively inaccessible) crawlspace under the unit, runs straight for about 30' and then vents outside under the back deck. This is the first time I've installed my own dryer and I have no concept of how much air flow to expect at the vent outlet or how often dryer vent ducting has to be cleaned or inspected. The landlord may pay for any cleaning but only if I give him some information upfront that indicates there is some problem. Thanks for any advice.

Josh
 
  #142  
Old 04-27-04, 05:24 AM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
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Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
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Hello: Josh. Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

A 30 foot run will likely insure lint has accumulated in the vent. Which means the ducting needs to be cleaned before your new machine is connected. To do so requires a clean snake. Much like those used to snake a drain line.

Since you are renting the condo and the owner may be willing to pay for the service, have it done professionally. Would save you the time and expense for the equipment. Not very costly for the service nor the tools needed.

If the task is to be done, the outside vent hood has to be removed. Than snake the vent tube clean. Start from inside and push the snake to the outside.

Replace the vent hood, with a new part, if the internal flapper does not move freely. Dryer vents should be cleaned about every couple of years, depending upon conditions. At a 30 foot run, like that one, maybe, but not always so, 2 years or so. Hard to say. Each condition varies.
 
  #143  
Old 04-27-04, 07:55 AM
jmolho
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
re: verifying dryer vent is free of lint

Thanks for the advice. I definitely plan on calling the landlord, although I can hear him now: "how do you know it's clogged?" This morning I crawled under the deck and inspected what appears to be the exit of the dryer vent. Looks reasonably clear of lint and the flapper on the outside seems to move freely. Thing is, when I connect up the ducting to the dryer and blow unheated air, the flapper under the deck doesn't open more than ~1/4" and I barely detect any air movement. The dryer is brand new and blows like a hurricane if I disconnect the ducting in the laundry room, but I really have no concept of how much load 30' of 4" ducting puts on the dryer. Is the fact that the exit flapper doesn't open fully and the weeds below the vent aren't blowing enough to convince the landlord that there is a problem?

Thanks for the advice.

Josh
 
  #144  
Old 04-27-04, 10:27 AM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 18,389
Wink

Read what the paper work on the dryer said for the vent. I think you will find that most say vent not tobe over 15'. The other thing that you can do if you have one take a lawn blower and blow out the vent pipe there .

ED
 
  #145  
Old 04-27-04, 11:55 AM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
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Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
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Hi: Josh

The below listed sizing and length vent chart fact sheet will help.
These are the approz. recommendations of most but not all manufacturers.
Obtained from documentations sent to our companies offices.
Used as >guidelines< to field service personal.

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Rigid Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
#of elbows:
0 elbows...44 feet
1 elbow....34 feet
2 elbows..26 feet
3 elbows..20 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...34 feet
1 elbow....26 feet
2 elbows..20 feet
3 elbows..14 feet

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Flexible Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
0 elbows...24 feet
1 elbow....20 feet
2 elbows..16 feet
3 elbows..12 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...20 feet
1 elbow....16 feet
2 elbows..12 feet
3 elbows....8 feet

The fact that the vent hood flapper isn't opening fully, possibly indicates the footage is too long. Possibly noted because there can be other causes.

Footage is the most likely. But not the only possible reason. Elbows and footage drastically effect the operating conditions. Dryer fan blowers do not generate powerful air forces. Not intended to for drying purposes and operating reasons.
 
  #146  
Old 11-22-05, 08:57 AM
mom2tadj
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Help!!! Squeaky Dryer

I have a Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Model 86701 each time I turn it on it squeaks real bad but after about 3-5 minutes (after it's warm) it's gone, no more squeaking, is there a way to make it stop squeaky every time I turn it on?
 
  #147  
Old 11-22-05, 05:23 PM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
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Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
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Noise Problems

Hello mom2tadj and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site and the Electric Appliances Forum Topic.

In most cases, it's the drum support rollers. Dryers also have slider/glider support pads, or rollers for the front of the drum. Also check <if your model is equipped with> a center rear drum support bearing. This may also be a part causing the noise. Any one of the parts or combination of parts mentioned above, may be a direct cause of a noise related problem.

Slide or glide pads are located on the inside of the front door panel. They are located on the housing that attaches to the inside front doors panel which supports the front of the drum. The top inside part of the drum rides on two and sometimes 3 of these pads or glides. Replacement of these parts should be easy on most models.

Belts may also cause squealing/slipping sounds or noises. If this happens to be the case, about the only option will be to replace it. Be aware, some belts have two different sides. One side must face up on the drum.

Regarding the belts positioning over, under and/or around the pulleys, my best suggestion is to make a hand drawing of the locations and positions prior to removing the old belt.

Refer to the drawing when installing the new replacement belt to be positive it is correctly positioned on the drum and routed on the pulleys. Then store that drawing within the dryers upper rear removable panel for future use.

You should also check behind the upper rear removable panel for an instructional booklet, leaflet or diagram. It's also possible the instructional information/diagram may be found taped to any other removable panel or location within the appliance cabinet.

To access the parts that needed to be inspected/removed or replaced, in many cases, for free standing and singular appliances, the back and front panels will need to be removed. Top panels will needed to be lifted up or slid rear wards. For many washer/dryer top and bottom attached combo units, access may only be needed or provided through the front panels.

Many instructions, several pictures, lots of discussions, tips and suggestions on this subject can be found within the archives of this forum. Also, check the gas appliance forum, on the same appliance subject, regardless of which energy source is used.

While your attempting this do-it-yourself project, a few words of caution and suggestions may be in order. Special precaution for electric dryers! Be absolutely positive the current is turned OFF! Or the plug is removed from the outlet! These appliances use 220/240 volts! Failure to do so may prove to be a SHOCKING experience at the least---serious injury and even DEATH from electrocution, in some cases, is possible!

Electrocution is always possible while your hands are inside the cabinet poking around, testing or casually fingering the internal parts while the current is ON.

When service instructions/books/booklets or other repair guides are not available, always make hand drawings, on paper, of parts locations and connections that will be needed for reassembly, prior to any part removals. Make a pencil mark on the drum, if need be, to locate the exact position the belt is in on the drum prior to removal.

Contact or visit the local retail appliance parts store with make, model and serial numbers in hand and be sure they currently have, in stock, the parts needed, prior to starting the repairs.

Failure to adhere to this suggestion, may just leave you with a prior working appliance, which is now currently disassembled and inoperative, while you await the arrival of out of stock or back ordered parts.

It's always recommended that you clean out the exhaust vent tubing, regardless of whether it is plastic or metal tubing. Check the exhaust vents outside hood. It should not be damaged and the enclosed flapper trap door should be freely moveable.

Upon inspection of the plastic vent tubing, it may be a worth while idea to replace it, at this time, if it appears old, cracked, dry, yellowed or brittle.

Always remove all dust and/or lint from within the cabinet. An ordinary household vacuum with a flexible suction hose and oval or round bush attachment oftens works fine. As will a shop vacuum or a moistened or dampened old rag or shop cloth.

Read the help information topic note pertaining to the appliance at the top of this forum for additional help.

Additional Help and Suggestions:
Read some of the existing posts in this forum. In them will have additional ideas and or suggestions, along with repairs procedures, etc.

Read the manufacturers online web site for additional product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals, which may be available online.

Search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe, which also needs to be downloaded first but worth having once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and parts dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members and moderators posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, suggestions and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list of current questions automatically.

Helping Out Here Too. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Moderator Hiring Agent & Multiple Topics Moderator. Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
 
  #148  
Old 11-22-05, 05:27 PM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
Likes Received: 4
Arrow Dryer Noises

In most cases, it's the drum support rollers. Dryers also have slider/glider support pads, or rollers for the front of the drum. Also check <if your model is equipped with> a center rear drum support bearing. This may also be a part causing the noise. Any one of the parts or combination of parts mentioned above, may be a direct cause of a noise related problem.

Slide or glide pads are located on the inside of the front door panel. They are located on the housing that attaches to the inside front doors panel which supports the front of the drum. The top inside part of the drum rides on two and sometimes 3 of these pads or glides. Replacement of these parts should be easy on most models.

Belts may also cause squealing/slipping sounds or noises. If this happens to be the case, about the only option will be to replace it. Be aware, some belts have two different sides. One side must face up on the drum.

Regarding the belts positioning over, under and/or around the pulleys, my best suggestion is to make a hand drawing of the locations and positions prior to removing the old belt.

Refer to the drawing when installing the new replacement belt to be positive it is correctly positioned on the drum and routed on the pulleys. Then store that drawing within the dryers upper rear removable panel for future use.

You should also check behind the upper rear removable panel for an instructional booklet, leaflet or diagram. It's also possible the instructional information/diagram may be found taped to any other removable panel or location within the appliance cabinet.

To access the parts that needed to be inspected/removed or replaced, in many cases, for free standing and singular appliances, the back and front panels will need to be removed. Top panels will needed to be lifted up or slid rear wards. For many washer/dryer top and bottom attached combo units, access may only be needed or provided through the front panels.

Many instructions, several pictures, lots of discussions, tips and suggestions on this subject can be found within the archives of this forum. Also, check the gas appliance forum, on the same appliance subject, regardless of which energy source is used.

While your attempting this do-it-yourself project, a few words of caution and suggestions may be in order. Special precaution for electric dryers! Be absolutely positive the current is turned OFF! Or the plug is removed from the outlet! These appliances use 220/240 volts! Failure to do so may prove to be a SHOCKING experience at the least---serious injury and even DEATH from electrocution, in some cases, is possible!

Electrocution is always possible while your hands are inside the cabinet poking around, testing or casually fingering the internal parts while the current is ON.

When service instructions/books/booklets or other repair guides are not available, always make hand drawings, on paper, of parts locations and connections that will be needed for reassembly, prior to any part removals. Make a pencil mark on the drum, if need be, to locate the exact position the belt is in on the drum prior to removal.

Contact or visit the local retail appliance parts store with make, model and serial numbers in hand and be sure they currently have, in stock, the parts needed, prior to starting the repairs.

Failure to adhere to this suggestion, may just leave you with a prior working appliance, which is now currently disassembled and inoperative, while you await the arrival of out of stock or back ordered parts.

It's always recommended that you clean out the exhaust vent tubing, regardless of whether it is plastic or metal tubing. Check the exhaust vents outside hood. It should not be damaged and the enclosed flapper trap door should be freely moveable.

Upon inspection of the plastic vent tubing, it may be a worth while idea to replace it, at this time, if it appears old, cracked, dry, yellowed or brittle.

Always remove all dust and/or lint from within the cabinet. An ordinary household vacuum with a flexible suction hose and oval or round bush attachment oftens works fine. As will a shop vacuum or a moistened or dampened old rag or shop cloth.

Read the help information topic note pertaining to the appliance at the top of this forum for additional help.

Additional Help and Suggestions:
Read some of the existing posts in this forum. In them will have additional ideas and or suggestions, along with repairs procedures, etc.

Read the manufacturers online web site for additional product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals, which may be available online.

Search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe, which also needs to be downloaded first but worth having once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and parts dealers are listed in the phone book.

Helping Out Here Too. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Moderator Hiring Agent & Multiple Topics Moderator. Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
Always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #149  
Old 11-22-05, 05:31 PM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
Likes Received: 4
Arrow Entire Dryer Does Not Operate At All

Check the door safety switch.

My personal method for diagnosing problems is always check for the smallest and least likely possible cause. Doing so avoids replacing parts needlessly.

Especially parts which will not be the direct cause of the problem, cost plenty, difficult to install and not solve the actual problem.

I suggest checking the door safety switch. The entire dryer will not operate if that door safety switch is defective or not fully closing.

Here is one method to test it:
Open the door and use one finger to push and hold the button recessed. Than push the start button.

If the dryer does start up and begin operating, the door switch isn't being fully recessed. Check the door, door hinges, etc. The door must close fully and tightly or the button will not be fully recessed.

If the dryer does not start up, suspect the door switch.
To test that switch do this:
FIRST, unplug the machine from the electrical power source.
Remove the front panel.
Access the wires clips on terminals.
Test for continuity using an ohm and or continuity test meter.
There should be continuity.
If not, the switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
Operating the push button by hand during the test will also determine if it working constantly as the button is pushed in and let out. The results can be seen on the tester.

Other possible causes:
Start Button:
The start button could also be defective. To determine this, the appliance must be unplugged from the electrical power source first. Access to the button will have to be made by removing the back panel. Then a continuity test can be performed.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes and solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, instructions, pictorials, schematics, which may be available online.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. Take will need the make, model and serial numbers.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will quickly provide you with a additional information on how to resolve the problem.

Disclaimer Notes:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several electrical parts. However, I do not recommend relying solely on either tests to determine if any electrical or electronic part or parts are causing the problem. The idea is not to replace costly parts until the defective one is found.

The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential problems. Have the local appliance parts store person test it or check it. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances.

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.

Alway's consider the warranties and future service needs for any major appliances your considering purchasing. Price isn't always the best guide for long term appliance investments.

Helping Out Here Too. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Moderator Hiring Agent & Multiple Topics Moderator. Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
 
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