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  #1  
Old 01-09-04, 09:16 AM
jguldy
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Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Series Dryer - No Heat

I must apologize up front that I don't have the model number (yet) for this Kenmore dryer. I have a preliminary question and will definitely get that information if/when needed.

My dryer runs (and runs and runs and runs), but there is no heat and the timer does not advance.

I've read some FAQs at applianceaid.com and I'm unsure where to start. Should I start with the lint filter and venting to check for blockage, or, since there is NO heat whatsover, should I just dive right in checking the following suggested parts: "- - house fuse or breaker... - heating element ... - burnt wire ... - thermostats ... thermal fuse ( not all models )... - motor heat switch ... - timer ... - selector switch ... - burnt power cord/plug ..."

Thanks in advance!
Joni G.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-09-04, 11:31 PM
KurtDixon
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Check your venting and blower area (likely around where the lint filter slides in, in back.)
Make very sure your vent is clean and open (not dented or crushed.) also make sure your vent hood is clean (the vent hood is on the outside of the house and prevents critters from entering.)
If you find piles of lint, likely your problem is just a burnt hi limit thermal fuse. The element could have busted as well, you can check it for physical breaks when you remove the back, does this dryer have the lint filter on top or inside the door opening? If the element is fine, then check the thermal fuse (mounted to the side of the element casing, usually white ceramic with two wires going to it.) if you have a multimeter, check it for continuity. If no continuity, replace the thermal fuse (they are only a few bucks.)
 
  #3  
Old 01-10-04, 08:21 AM
Frapster
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Dryer Problems

I have a GE Dryer Model number: DPSR483EAOWW that has recently gone out. I have persistent dryer problems as this is a new dryer (purchased in the last year) and my previous dryers have all gone out multiple times. I have been told that it's related to my vent hose which I have shortened significantly when I put this dryer in. When it went out this last time I immediately looked at the hose and the dryer had been pushed back to the wall and the hose was not kinked but it was a steep climb to the vent. I'm going to build a spacer out of 2x4's to keep the dryer from being pushed back again but my question is this - is there a fuse that would cause the dryer to not heat? It's the only thing that's not currently working as everything else works just fine - it just won't heat. Or am I looking at replacing something?

Thanks,

Rob
 
  #4  
Old 01-11-04, 02:49 PM
jguldy
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Hey, Thanks for the help! Turns out the heating element has a broken coil.

Thanks again - this site rocks!

Joni G.
 
  #5  
Old 01-12-04, 07:45 AM
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HAPPY HAPPY outcome. Got the cover off and noticed that the blower wheel was rubbing against the front of the housing. Loosened the two set bolts, gently slid the blower back a bit, and retightened the bolts. Presto! Noise is gone! The gliders looked okay (to my untrained eye, but they also make no noise). Vacuumed out some lint (not much though). Decided to forgo fixing the humidity control for a few months until some bills are paid. Septic backed up this weekend. Had to purchase a long snake. Does it ever end?!
 
  #6  
Old 01-12-04, 12:43 PM
norco1
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how do i remove front panel . it's a new kenmore with full front panel and coin box? thanks
 
  #7  
Old 01-17-04, 02:27 PM
hazy
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Maytag Dryer How to remove lid?

Hi!
Trying to get a good look at the drum in my dryer as it has been making a terrible thumping noise....
Anyone know how to remove the top/lid to get a good look at the inside?
Thanks!
 
  #8  
Old 01-17-04, 07:01 PM
KurtDixon
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You have to remove the front first. There are 2 screws at the bottom near each side. Remove these and pivot the front up. It will come off (careful with the wires.)
there are 2 bolts under the top near the front, remove these and the top will tilt back.
Thumping can be caused by bad rollers or something in the blower.
 
  #9  
Old 01-21-04, 07:11 AM
ken11751
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HI
Right now I am in the process of trying to fix my older maytag electric dryer model DE306.
I took off the back, there were two aditional screws holding the control panel on. After removing these I gently pried loose the bracket and off cam the top.
Watch it! the sides will start to fall.
Make sure you remove the necessary wires and mark them if necessary.
Good Luck!
 
  #10  
Old 01-21-04, 08:11 AM
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Remove the front two screws like Kurt has mention.
 
  #11  
Old 01-23-04, 05:34 AM
Reece
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Amana Dryer - Continuous Running

This is an Amana Electric Dryer.
Manufacturer Number is P LE8517W2. I can't remember when we purchased this but it was several (3 +) years ago. I started the dryer last night before I went to bed at 10:00pm and when my husband woke at 4:00am for work it was still running.
Please let me know what other information you might need to help out here. But if I can fix this myself it would be terrific.

You all helped me fix my washing machine when it needed a new pump and it saved me $250.00. Thanks!

Reece
 
  #12  
Old 01-23-04, 06:03 AM
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Hello: Reece

Chances are the timer is stuck at one point and will not advance.
Timers have cams that open and close contact points as it advances through the cycles. One of those contacts has become stuck. Timers are a non repairable items. Replacement is needed.

Remove the pull off wire quick disconnects and install them on the new timer. It's that easy. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
 
  #13  
Old 01-23-04, 12:26 PM
KurtDixon
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Try the dryer on timed dry for say, 40 minutes. Come back 10-20 minutes later, the timer should have moved 10-20 minutes. If it is still at 40 minutes, the timer is very likely bad. If the timer does move and after 40 minutes it stops, then the automatic cycles are not working (perhaps a thermisdat or moisture sensor.)
Since this happened all of a sudden, it isn't likely caused by the vent, but do check the vent anyway, they do clog up and you may not even notice it yet.
 
  #14  
Old 01-23-04, 01:38 PM
randalg
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Thanks for all the help. I found a valve today for $23. I'm going to work on it tomorrow. Doesn't seem to be to hard. I'll let you know when I finish.
 
  #15  
Old 01-23-04, 08:15 PM
Reece
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Amana Dryer - New problem

Manufacturer Number is P LE8517W2. Well my original problem was that the machine wasn't turning off on the regular cycle. So, I ran it through a timer cycle (as suggested in another thread) to see if it was the timer but that is working just fine so I thought I'd run a load of clothes on the timed cycle while I thought it through that maybe it was the moisture sensor and guess what.....no heat. So is this the heater coil or whatever it is called? And if so, is this repairable by me or do I need a repair man. I am very handy. Please some suggestions.

Thanks,

Reece
 
  #16  
Old 01-23-04, 09:19 PM
Reece
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Amana Dryer - New problem

Manufacturer Number is P LE8517W2. Well my original problem was that the machine wasn't turning off on the regular cycle. So, I ran it through a timer cycle (as suggested in another thread) to see if it was the timer but that is working just fine so I thought I'd run a load of clothes on the timed cycle while I thought it through that maybe it was the moisture sensor and guess what.....no heat. So is this the heater coil or whatever it is called? And if so, is this repairable by me or do I need a repair man. I am very handy. Please some suggestions.

Thanks,

Reece
 
  #17  
Old 01-23-04, 09:44 PM
KurtDixon
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Both of these are connected. The dryer has to heat in order to run the automatic cycle (the timer moves based on the thermisdat cycling on and off, with no heat, the thermisdat is always on and when the thermisdat is on, the timer doesn't move.)
2 things, either the thermal fuse is bad. This is caused by a clogged dryer vent 90% of the time. Or the element is broken, this is also caused by a clogged vent a lot of times.
So check and clean your vent and then remove the front panel of the dryer. There should be 2 screws on the bottom. There are probably 2 thermal fuses. One is on the blower housing and one is on the element housing. You could test them if you have a multimeter. Or you can replace both, they are cheap. To check the element, check it with a multi meter for continuity. If no continuity, the element is bad. If you have no multimeter, you need to remove the element and check it for physical breaks.
 
  #18  
Old 01-24-04, 05:23 AM
Reece
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Where can I purchase these things? Is there a good place online that makes it easy?

Thanks,

Reece
 
  #19  
Old 01-24-04, 05:38 AM
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You should be able to purchase these parts at any appliance service center. I believe with that model the thermal fuse comes as a kit with both fuses included.
 
  #20  
Old 01-25-04, 07:44 AM
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Hello: Reece

As previously suggested, you will have to verify if the venting system is not clogged or restricted. Either will cause overheating and shutting down the drying cycle of the machine.

Once that is determined not to be the cause, the timer is the next likely cause. If the timer is still not advancing and there is no heat, the electric element is the next likely the cause.

Replacing the heating element should resolve the problem.
DIY'S Appliance Parts and Accessories Shopping Center.
http://doityourself.com/store/applianceparts.htm
(copy & paste)

Problem solving requires a step by step diagnostic procedure to elliminate some possible causes. Begin that process.

Reprt back the results using the "reply" button so all the info remains within this thread. Makes following along much easier.

I combined (merged) the two posts into this one single thread for that purpose and convenience to all concerned parties.
 
  #21  
Old 01-26-04, 07:17 AM
randalg
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thanks for the help!! It only took about 30 mins. to complete the job. So far no leaks. Everything seems to be working fine. By the way Kurt, I did see the links you provided. Thanks!!
 
  #22  
Old 01-26-04, 10:17 AM
billybabe
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Unhappy Kenmore electric dryer 90 Series

I have a Kenmore 90 Series electric dryer. First problem no-heat. Checked all air flow and lint build up. Not the problem. Everything is clear. Dryer purchased new in 1998 or 1999.
Also with the no heat is that when the timer is set it turns the drum for a minute or so then automatically goes to off. Regardless of whether it is set for 10 minutes or 60 minutes on the timer control or the electronic moisture control cycle. Please help. Thanks in advance for your time.
 
  #23  
Old 01-26-04, 05:52 PM
murphy70118
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dryer will not turn

Oh my! I put my robe in the dryer and realized it was not getting dry. When I went to check on it the dryer was pulled out from the wall ( a real mystery). I started the dryer again and realized it does not appear to be turning. Any ideas on how to fix this??
 
  #24  
Old 01-26-04, 05:56 PM
murphy70118
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stack units

I hope to be able to fix my dryer (previous post). However, we have been contemplating getting a stack unit to put inside (our washer and dryer are in the garage which is a real pain with young kids). My husband's closet is directly in front of our bathroon so I am thinking this would be easier for the plumbing. The closet also has an outside wall for the vent. So, does anyone hav any input on stack units? Are they even worth it?? I used to hear how they dont hold much and dont dry well. Have things changed?

Thank you for any ideas!!!

Wendy
 
  #25  
Old 01-26-04, 09:54 PM
KurtDixon
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Things have changed. You can get a full sized stack from Frigidaire and Maytag, don't know about Whirlpool
The electric dryers run on 220 volts like regular dryers so the drying times would be the same as a regular dryer. The gas dryers in them are identicle to regular gas dryers also.
To have an electric stack, you would need either
a 220 volt outlet or 2 120 volt outlet (for 2 120 volt outlets, you should be able to use a regular outlet and use up both the top and bottom which would=2 120s)
I think Maytag's stack is the one that uses 2 120 volts (which is an easier electrical installation, or no electrical installation at all if a regular outlet is nearby.)
For a gas stack, you would need a regular outlet for the motors, timers etc and a gas hookup for the dryer's burner.
For both types you would need a drain for the washer and a vent for the dryer.
It would be easier to repair the dryer that's broken. But it is up to you if you want to keep going into the garage
 
  #26  
Old 01-26-04, 10:01 PM
KurtDixon
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It could very likely be the timer. It could also be a loose connection or a bad door switch (however I would bet my money on the timer.)
Next time it starts "starting and stopping" While it is stopped, push on the door and hold it there. See if that helps any. If not, start jiggling the timer and see if that helps. Make sure you do these tests while the motor is in "stop" mode to see if it springs to life. If it starts up but not because you did anything, wait for it to stop again before doing the tests, good luck
 
  #27  
Old 01-27-04, 09:57 AM
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Hello: billybabe

If the timer is not advancing but the entire machine shuts down, not likely to be the timer. Motor may be defective. Unplug the machine, remove the motor and have it tested at any local electric motor repair shop in your area. The business are listing in the phone book.

What is not clear here is what the timer is doing? Staying on and the machine shuts down? If so than the above may apply. Know what goes off would help also.

Other factors can cause a condition you are describing. More detailed specific info needed. Kindly use the reply button to add additional detailed and specific info. Thanks.

For more detailed information etc. read the recent postings within this forum. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question.

These prior postings and any or all the replies offered within them contain almost all the required information needed pertaining to the many potential and or possible problems with the appliance like your describing.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes and solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures and instructions, pictorials and schematics, all or part of which may be available online.

Another possibility may be to search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe which also needs to be downloaded but worth having the Adobe once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Appliance part stores and dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.
 
  #28  
Old 01-27-04, 01:09 PM
murphy70118
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more info on dryer

When hubby came home he looked at it and found that the belt had broken. This is a Whirpool machine. I found the "fix it kit" and with luck, we will be back in buisness tonight. If anyone has ever changed the felt and has any tips, suggestions are welcome.

THank you for the info on the stack units. I went to a web site and looked at opinions on the various machines.

Wendy
 
  #29  
Old 01-27-04, 03:15 PM
KurtDixon
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So when you say "then it automatically goes to off" does that mean the timer advances ultra fast to the off position? Or do you mean the dryer shuts off with the timer still pointing to a cycle?
 
  #30  
Old 01-27-04, 03:31 PM
KurtDixon
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Yup this is an easy fix. By felt do you mean the rear drum seal? Or the front supporting felt ring?
The rear drum seal just glues in place (the glue should be supplied with the kit) make sure you have the area where the seal glues on nice and clean and dry.
For the front ring, I am not positive how, it probably gets glued in place as well, not totally sure though
You may get confused when it comes time to hook the belt around the motor and idler pulley, let me know if you can't figure it out and I will find a picture for you
 
  #31  
Old 01-27-04, 03:52 PM
murphy70118
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oops .. I meant to write Belt

The belt is part of the dryer repair kit
 
  #32  
Old 01-28-04, 04:05 AM
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Cool

Open the dw door and get the model number. Get a timer for it.
Turn off the power to the dw (should be on a dedicated circuit, but maybe not).
Exchange the wires from the old timer to the new timer ONE AT A TIME TO THE EXACT SAME CONNECTION and you can't go wrong.
Good Luck!
 
  #33  
Old 01-30-04, 09:40 AM
billybabe
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Smile 90 Series Kenmore Dryer premature shut down

I can't determine who this reply is going to, so hopefully it will get to both of you (Kurt Dixon + SharpAdvice). I thank you very much for your advice. Yes to the question of the timer going ultra fast to shut down. And yes I was headed the way of the burnt out motor theory. But as I was waiting to hear back from DIY, I removed the cover from the top and looked to see if anything jumped out at me (eg a burnt computer board or black marks suggesting a burn out.) Found nothing, so I then took the front bottom panel off and the heating element cover off (All of which I must stress being done while unplugged) . I then plugged the machine back in and set to high dry. I was able to determine that the heating coil was not broken but it went off almost immediately. I also noticed heavy lint build-up inside the cabinet, and around all the wires and heating coil. I unplugged and proceeded to clean WITH CAUTION. I then tried again and walllah--PROBLEM SOLVED. The dryer is continuing to work fine.
Obviously I must be attentive to cleanliness and lint build-up as well as signals like "progressively longer drying times which are not normal". Chump that I am, I should have known this all along because I have five little dogs and three of them are pugs which shed constantly. So the hair build-up along (from drying their bedding and toys) with the lint could have caused at the very least a burnt out motor but I suspect that would have been the least of my problems, Thank God it had not started a fire. Hopefully this will aid other "chumps" no strike that, other people like myself to pay more attention. Thanks again!
 
  #34  
Old 01-30-04, 02:18 PM
KurtDixon
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So with a complete dryer clean it works fine now?
Excellent. If you didn't, I would also check the dryer vent from the back of the dryer to the outside hood. With all those dogs, the vent is bound to have some build up in it also
 
  #35  
Old 01-31-04, 12:45 PM
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It's been years since I had an electric dryer but I think that there are two heating coils on a 220V dryer. If one has burned out, it could account for the slow drying.
I switched to gas and it saved a bunch on the utility bill. Of course The gas unit costs more initially and I had to have a gas line run to it.
 
  #36  
Old 01-31-04, 12:50 PM
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When did you last clean the dryer vent duct? If it's been a long time, that may be the culprit. Also, do you clean the lint filter after each use?

Try this test-

1. Move the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the vent duct.

2. Cut the leg from an old pair of panty hose and attach it to the dryer vent with a large hose clamp.

3. Run the dryer. If clothes dry as they should, the problem is in your vent duct. It's probably plugged with lint.
 
  #37  
Old 01-31-04, 02:30 PM
KurtDixon
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Goldstar, Only GEs have 2 heating elements, most (if not all) other electric dryers have one element.
Check the vent (take pieces down and look in them)
 
  #38  
Old 01-31-04, 08:59 PM
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to vent it is

Quick question before I dismantle the vent, It's cold up here NE and the steam is flowing out the vent and i can feel the warm air but it could still be the culprit?
 
  #39  
Old 02-01-04, 05:57 AM
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Hello: stocon

Maybe a clarification is needed. You do not have to disassemble the entire vent. Just remove it (disconnect it) from the back of the dryer.

Than dry a normal load of clothes. The intent is to determine if the vent is restricted. If it is not, the same condition you described as the problem will remain.

If the vent is the cause of the problem, the dryer will still have the same condition described. Than we will know where the problem is and you'll know where to begin the repairs.

You may feel warm air coming out of the vent but the volume of air is also important. The venting system may only be restricted and not plugged totally.

Another place to check is inside the dryer cabinet. Remove the front panel and check the blower fan housing and fan cage. May be excessive lint inside causing an air flow restriction.

Doing that will also allow you to note how many heating coils the unit has, since it was mentioned there could be two and another member mentioned that brand only has one. Check and see.
 
  #40  
Old 02-01-04, 05:58 AM
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Yes it could.

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. I saw steam and felt warm air at the foundation vent, too. When I took the vent line apart, there was "only" ~1" - 2" of lint in the bottom of the duct. After I cleaned it out, the dryer worked better than it had in years.

The idea for now is to determine if the problem is the dryer or the vent. If the panty hose trick trick works (i.e. the dryer drys again), you could use it that way until the weather improves and you can take care of the vent. You would have to clean the panty hose lint trap fairly often, but at least the clothes would get dry.

When (if) you open the vent, make sure it's rigid duct - not that flexible plastic stuff. The flexible duct severly reduces air flow and reduces dryer effeciency.
 
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