Frigidaire Dishwasher after power surge


Old 02-24-04, 07:32 AM
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Frigidaire Dishwasher after power surge

What a mess. The problem was finally found in my wiring, but the victims may not all be uncovered yet. Directv receiver, cordless phone, answering machine, battery charger, then the garage door opener, which I'm still working on. Last night the dishwasher. The outlet is good. The wiring is properly hooked into the new breaker box. I tried stringing an extension cord from another outlet. The dishwasher shows absolutely no sign of life. It's a frigidaire gallery, probably about 9 years old. (full of dirty dishes). I just took the bottom apart a couple months ago to clean out the bits of crap around the motor, I'm assuming the wiring is likely in the door. I'll be opening that up today. Any advice for what I might find would truly be appreciated.

Thank you

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Old 02-24-04, 11:35 AM
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Hello: Gina

Power surges often destroy electrical componets. Major appliances like diswashers, etc may be covered for damages from power surges by the homeowners policy, if you have one. Inquire.

What you're likely to find is burned electrical circuits, etc. Nno of which are an easy to fix condition.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, ideas, suggestions, test and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

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Old 02-24-04, 12:02 PM
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Thank you for your reply. I'll check with my insurance agent. I have the dw apart now, nothing smells like hot wiring like my door opener did. No obvious signs of anything that had gotten hot. I called one of my dad's friends, an appliance repair guy, and he told me there is no fuse, and the problem is likely the door switch. I didn't think a surge would affect that but he said differently, that everything runs through that.

I have my dad's ohm meter here, although I have no clue how to use that. Butch didn't think that would do much good at determining if the switch is good or not. I'm very much a level one or so when it comes to electricity. I can run switches, outlets, install fans, repair small kitchen appliances, put new plugs on things, but this is a bit beyond me.

He suggested I try to jumper the door switch. Does this mean cut wires going in and out of the switch?
Old 02-24-04, 02:09 PM
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Hi: Gina
Here is what I suggest you do. Unplug the washer. Set the ohm meter to ohms. Insert the test leads into the meter. Touch the two leads together and not the direction the meters needle moves. It must must opposite from it's resting place on the dial.

Touch one probe lead from the meter to one terminal of the door switch and the other lead from the meter to the other door switch terminal.

When the switch is opened, internal contacts not closed, the meters needle will not move. When the switch is closed, like when the door is closed, the meters pointer needle will swing over to the opposite end on the meter.

If the needle does not swing over either position the door switch is in, the switch is defective and has to be replaced. I do not sugest jumping those wires or cutting them, etc. Just remove them from the switch so they do not give a false reading.

If the needle does not move or appears to want to swing in the opposite direction, simply reverse the meters leads on the switch.

Be sure the electrical power is not on or the washer is not plugged into the wall outlet during any testing, etc. Note the results and post back those findings.

You can also test any other switchs, dials, controls, timer etc for continuity. That's what is meant by testing for continity. Using an ohm meter as described above.

Additional Suggestions:
Check for and read any instructions which may be in the box, package, container, etc with the meter, if any are available.

By the way. Also test the main electrical cord. Put one meter lead on one plug prong and test for continuity at the other end of that wire, which will be at a terminal end. Do all power cord wires. Should be 3. One of which is a ground wire. May find one which is internally damaged.

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Old 02-24-04, 02:47 PM
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Thanks so much for your advice!
What I've done so far: (under phone direction of father)

is: unplugged the dw. Carefully scraped the insulation off the four wires going into the switch (there was no exposed wire). Plugged the unit in. Kept the door switch off. With the digital meter set at 500, I touched the probes to the little bits of wire showing through. The bottom black and white wires are obviously the "in" wires, they showed about 118 on the meter. The top wires showed nothing.

Then I turned the door switch on. Tested the top wires the same was as the bottom wires, hoping that the reading would be nothing, but it read about 120 also. I guess this means that the switch is not the culprit.

Since I have the digital meter here, I don't know how to translate the instructions with the needles.

I tested the power at the connection between the dishwasher hot and neutral and the hot/neutral going to the plug, and that was right. My moron ex-husband did not attach a ground, so that is something I will definitely fix.

Maybe I'll have to dig around and find the directions for this meter, as I honestly don't understand the whole continuity thing and how to test without the power on.

I have the schematic/wiring diagram here, it was under the panel when I opened things. I wish I knew what I was looking for now. I was hoping it would be that switch...

thanks again for the advice, I will be standing by!


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