Neptune drum bearings repair possible?

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  #1  
Old 12-02-04, 01:45 PM
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Neptune drum bearings repair possible?

As luck would have it, after I successfully saved my broken spinner with new bolts, my Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW now is starting to squeal when on the spin cycle. I suspect the bearings are starting to go. I can spin the drum by hand slowly without feeling any signs of bearing failure but when the cycle starts for spin it starts howling. It used to be pretty quiet. Anyone have any experience with this? Has anyone successfully changed out the outer drum bearings? I've read they are imbedded in the plastic housing without any chance of a DIY repair. To add to that, is it true Maytag is discontinuing this part (outer drum with bearings)?
 
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  #2  
Old 12-03-04, 11:41 AM
K.Gomes
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I had 3 times with a squeeling problem. Is it constant high pitch? or high pitch with a bit of base?

My Maytag had simliar or exact. Scince Maytag hucked the dependile care series and unvailed the neptune and performa, they removed parts that are not needy. One of them was a drain filter. If you have anything in your pockets particularly stringy like a necklace, it can slip thru a whole on the drain cycle and get logged in the pump assembly causeing high pitchy noises.

You can fix it your self. Id say it could be the berings, but check the pump. You can by opening up the top, taking of the front panel and dis-assemble the pump assembly.

Note: Maytag isnt as "dependible" as it used to be.
 
  #3  
Old 12-03-04, 10:24 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I'll try cleaning out the pump tomorrow. Now that my wife has been using the washer since the noise first started, I can detect a slight resistance and roughness when I turn the drum by hand. I was able to find a new outer drum so I ordered it along with a Maytag service manual. I'll let you know what happens.
 
  #4  
Old 12-05-04, 05:53 PM
rgmvmm
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Unhappy My experiences with The Neptune Stack Set

In 1998 I purchased a Maytag Neptune Washer/Dryer Stack set for about $2000 because it fit nicely in our small laundry area and provided more area for laundry products and dirty laundry storage. The machine worked well for a few years. I did not have any of the mold problems that have been reported here and elsewhere. Then the problems started. Intermittent resets of the control, wax motor/door lock issues which kept the machine from going into spin, etc. With some urging Maytag fixed the "mold smell" non issue with the new seal arrangement and at the same time added a new control board in the console to "enhance the washability". In truth, it was probably because they had many problems with control board failures.

About this time, worried that other problems might show up, I sent an email to Maytag Customer service asking for a service manual. They sent one out immediately (Stacked Laundry Service Manual - Issued 7/98). NOTE: This is a fairly well written manual which includes detailed descriptions of the individual subsystems and how they work, Exploded view of components, Troubleshooting Flow Charts, Electrical Component tests and Repair procedures. I recommend that anyone that is the least bit "handy" get a manual like this for their machine. Even if you don't fix it yourself, it gives you a good idea of the complexity of some repairs and hence, how much you will pay in labor.

Two months after the above "Fixes", my wax motor/door lock went. The door would no longer lock, the "locked Light" would not come on and the machine would not go into high speed spin. After analyzing the circuit I determined that you could put a flexible shim between the door lock throw piston and the spin enable micro switch. The door still would not lock but the machine would go into spin. I used a small piece of stiff foam to make this shim. I also warned my wife not to open the door while the machine was running. She indicated that she would never try to do that no matter what.

The above fix (with a foam shim) lasted for several years until the foam took a permanent set. Then I just replaced the foam shim.

Several months ago I got the literature mailed to me concerning the class action lawsuit. I filled in the paperwork and sent it out hoping that nothing else would go wrong before I received a settlement. Well, I was wrong. Must not have "knocked on wood" or something. Two weeks ago the washer section started to have a "howling" noise when it went into high speed spin. I knew that this was NOT GOOD. It was probably a problem with the tub/spinner bearing assembly. There was no "play" between the inner and outer tubs so I hoped that the bearings just needed lubrication. After reading the service manual I deduced that the minimum that I would need would be a spinner shaft seal. I was lucky and found the right shaft seal at my local appliance parts store. (Most internet parts dealers have this part.)

I set to work tearing the machine apart. No fancy tools required. The repair manual was a big help. Everything was fairly well laid out including tricks to get the front shroud unfastened and tucked around the side of my stack set (out of the way). If you have to take apart the outer tub to get access to the inner tub for cleanout or for removing the inner tub, DO NOT REMOVE THE WIRE LOOP AND SPRING. The outer tub cover and seal assembly will come off as one piece after you remove the thirteen tub clips. This will save a whole bunch of time. I then removed the back cover, the pulley bolt/washer and the pulley which came off much easier than I expected. I tried to pull out the stainless spinbasket with the spinner support and shaft attached. I tried loosening the shaft with a hammer and hard wood block driving it toward the front of the machine. It wouldn't budge. I then took out the rear baffles in the spinner tub and after marking part locations removed the three locking nuts. The tub came off the spinner support easily. After several hits with the hammer and a hardwood block the spinner support popped loose and was then removed from the outer tub/bearing assembly.

After popping out the inner part of the water seal which was dry (No seal lubricant) and worn and removing the plastic spacer, I was finally able to see the inner bearing. By this time I was about two and one-half hours into the repair. It was immediately obvious that the inner bearing was lacking lubricant and had been subjected to water incursion (rust around the bearing seal). Crossing my fingers and hoping that the bearing was not damaged (according to Maytag, you can't replace the bearings without replacing the whole outer tub assembly) I lubricated the inner bearing using a needle grease adapter and marine (Water resistant) bearing grease. It took quite a bit of grease. I also lubricated the outer bearing on the back of the tub support which took very little grease and then started the cleanup/assembly process. The cleanup took a little time because of the dirt/scum built up in the pockets of the spinner assembly and on the back of the inner tub at the spinner/inner tub interfaces.

I replaced the spinner support shaft seal per the instructions and then proceeded with the reassembly of the machine. I reinserted the spinner support shaft through the bearings and lightly seated it hoping that the seal would go into place. It did when I put the pulley on the back and tightened up the pulley bolt. It seemed to run quite smooth but was tight which I attributed to the new seals. I reassembled the rest of the machine, kept my fingers crossed and put it on "Final Spin". When the machine got up to several hundred RPM (800RPM is the maximum final spin speed) I could tell that the bearing had been damaged when it ran out of lubricant. Instead of "Howling" at high speed it now had a lower volume rumble coming from the tub. Luck was not with me!!

I went on the internet and looked at how much it would cost me to replace the outer tub/bearing assemblies. Most suppliers showed the part as "No Longer Available - Call the Manufacturer". Sears had it for about $200. At this point I had a decision to make. If this were a washer and not a washer dryer stack set, I would probably have tossed the washer to the junk man and bought a new washer. I sure did not want to buy both a washer and a dryer and reconfigure the laundry area, so I decided to repair the washer myself. Two estimates between $500 and $600 from appliance repair services also made this decision quite easy.

I called Maytag Customer service and complained about the short life of the seal and the fact that a $30 dollar water seal failure also cost me an expensive outer tub/bearing assembly. What a dumb design!! The bearing assembly should have been designed so that it was replaceable (They are two simple [$10 - $15] sealed ball bearings with a spacer between them).
Their answer was typical "Parts do fail" and they sent me over to their parts department. This was a bonus because their prices for all the parts were about 70% of what they would have cost at Sears or other internet appliance parts dealers. I ordered the Outer Tub/Bearing assembly, the spinner support seal (again), the tub cover seal (good insurance policy), new tub clips which hold the tub cover to the outer tub assembly and a new drain pump. The last was also an insurance policy because the motor driven pump was 6 years old and was getting noisy. While I had it apart, I thought that I should replace the pump.

My goal is to try to get another 5 to 6 years out of the machine before I replace it. I am now waiting for the all the parts from Maytag. Lets hope they can get a simple parts order right!

Bob
 
  #5  
Old 12-06-04, 05:20 AM
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Thanks for your reply Bob, I have a new outer drum coming as well as a service manual from Maytag. Good luck with your repair. I'll be using your info to help me with mine!
 
  #6  
Old 12-11-04, 01:03 PM
rgmvmm
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Latest on My Neptune Repair effort - Success

10Dec04 Update

The Neptune Stack-Set is back together and running well (Much quieter than it was before). The Maytag people were great and got me all of the parts that I needed quickly. In addition to the parts listed in the story above, I also replaced the Spinner Support Assembly (which allowed me to use the newer Tub bearing seal assembly – a good choice if it extends the life of the seal) and the support/Inner Tub attachment hardware on my nickel. I also replaced the air dome hose which runs from the Tub Drain area to the pressure switch. The portion of the rubber part inside the tub was showing its age (Hardening & Surface cracking). This was worth the insurance. It would be a difficult repair to make after I had put the machine back together again.
I indicated to Maytag that I was having periodic trouble with the Motor/Motor Control being intermittent and they approved the replacement of the Motor/Control Board with the newer style motor on a warranty exchange basis with a local Maytag parts supplier. Cost me a 15 mile trip to the parts supplier to exchange both the motor and the Control Board which was well worth it. This was also a bonus as long as I had the washing machine section completely apart.
A suggestion to those that try this repair: My original stack Set came to me in two pieces – The lower Washer Section and the Upper Dryer section. I tore the washing machine down to the point where I was ready to remove the outer tub assembly (Motor, Balance weights, pulley, inner Tub and spinner Support assemblies removed) and then decided that it would be much easier to proceed if I unstacked the units first.
For those who didn’t watch their unit being stacked at delivery/setup or got a Factory Stacked unit (Online installation instructions only are for the factory stacked units) the process (At least on my unit) was quite simple: 1) Remove the gas line and fittings from the pipe at the back of the upper dryer section at the right rear. 2) Remove the upper hex head screw (5/16) on the 2 inch long strap which runs from the top of the washer section to the bottom of the dryer cabinet at he left rear. 3) Remove the two hex head screws (5/16) which hold the clips which fasten the dryer to the washer. These clips are located inside the lower “Sled” of the dryer base with the screws coming in thru the dryer base front. 4) Unplug both the right and the left harness connections from the dryer to the washer. 5) The dryer will then slide forward on the washer base until the gas pipe clears the small square hole in the back of the washer. Removal will most likely take two people. 6) Be careful not to damage the Gas Pipe and harness connections when setting the dryer down.
I am totally satisfied the way I was treated by Maytag. The “self–Refurbished” unit runs great and I am looking forward to many years of trouble free operation. Now if only they would fix my broken wax motor locking system (lawsuit issue), I would be totally satisfied.

Bob
 
  #7  
Old 12-13-04, 06:13 AM
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Good job Bob. I just finished mine. From start to finish it took me about 3 hours and it's spinning quietly now. The outer tub bearings were indeed rusting from water getting past the seal. What a poor design. Anyways after looking at the old outer tub, I don't see why a really motivated individual couldn't change the bearings in the tub. I think it's a factory ploy to get individuals to buy the whole tub. In fact I think I'll give it a try and save the old tub for future problems. It doesn't look like the bearings are proprietary and can be knocked out with a simple punch and hammer, just like wheel bearings.
 
  #8  
Old 12-31-04, 02:25 PM
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Outer tub bearing replacement update

Well, I'm back again after an extended break. I had put my outer drum with bad bearings up till I had time to mess with it. I'm on Christmas break now and I resumed the task of replacing the bearings. I can report success! The bearings required a pair of large snap ring pliers, a punch and a heavy hammer. It was similar to replacing wheel bearings. Nice and slow without giving up. The bearings are installed in an aluminum insert that corrodes easily. Once you clean it up sufficiently to knock the races out, you'll be home free. I'm off to the local bearing house to match bearings and seals and now I'll have an extra outer tub in case it happens again. Good luck all of you!
 
  #9  
Old 01-04-05, 03:55 PM
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A special tool to remove bearings!

I'm already past this point, but for those who are gadget freaks will like this one. Check out tonytool.com and take a look at the Maytag Neptune bearing tool.
 
  #10  
Old 05-28-06, 01:22 AM
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Hey bilborjr

How are your replaced bearings holding up? I just ran across your post as I was looking into posts about our new noise (which I'll post as a new thread).
 
  #11  
Old 05-29-06, 10:23 PM
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I've had my new bearings installed since 12/12/2004 with no problems. How are you doing with your repair?
regards,

bilbojr
 
  #12  
Old 05-31-06, 12:05 AM
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Repairs holding

I am thankful to have a mechanic with electrical troubleshooting experience for a husband.

We've went through a few things on our machine - no bearings yet though. Since we've read your post, if we have bearing problems, we know what we'll be doing.

Our problems were the common ones I've read for the Maytag Neptunes minus the wax motor problem. I was so glad to run across this forum because it sure helped us to read everyone's dilemmas and fixes. We, also, broke down and ordered the service manual, which has helped. Our most recent problem was a noise that sounded like the belt slipping during start-up or motor direction change. We flipped the belt the other way (instead of reading Maytag upright, we are now reading it upside down); the noise has stopped. The belts has 6 ribs running length-wise and two outer ribs looked kinda scuffed up compared to the others. I think that somehow the belt jumped out of its proper alignment (didn't pay attention to alignment when we pulled it off of the machine); when we reinstalled the belt, we paid attention to proper alignment. Re-installment and proper alignment seems to have been the fix because the noise is gone.

Thank you for sharing your information with the forum. :-)
 
  #13  
Old 06-01-06, 05:47 AM
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Mine too had a squeek every time the motor reversed direction. Instead of reversing the belt, I changed the motor mount bushings as part of the factory update. The new bushings are harder and I think it keeps the motor steady and less apt to allow the belt a momentary slip as it changes direction. Good thing you have a good mechanic, it always helps!
 
  #14  
Old 07-06-06, 08:18 AM
Join Date: Jul 2006
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bearing replacement follow up

I'm inthe process of replacing the bearings in my old style neptune.
1. the tonytool web site has a nice video that walks you through the process - if you don't buy his tool, you'll still find the video helpful.
2. maytag technical bulletin dated jan 2003, no TDL-0021-B relates to the seal and is helpful to have
3. I was able to remove both bearings with a drift and a hammer - note that the mass of the drift is important, it has to be heavy enough to carry the impact.
4. if you are planning ahead, it's worth the $50 to order the tonytool just to save the sweat of hammering on bearings in an awkward position.
5. my machine was leaking due to the failed seal - this caused some damage to the floor under the machine - so if you hear a bearing failing, it might be good to look inside the macine for water lying on the base
6. this is a great opportunity to clean the interior of the washer.

I'll post the #s of the bearings when I get them - the two bearings are different sizes, the rearmost (close to pulley) bearing is SKF6206-227HT - don't know if that's a good number or not (yet).OD 2.440, ID 1.175. My frontmost bearing has no legible numbers (too much corrosion), the OD is 2.840, Id is 1.375
 
  #15  
Old 07-06-06, 11:38 AM
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neptune bearing #s

I got better quality sealed bearings, bearing numbers 6206 and 6207ZZ for $12 and $15 respectively - precision bearings and supply 310-322-6611 hope this helps
 
  #16  
Old 07-08-06, 04:23 PM
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Cost of Tony Tool

William,

The bearing is howling on our Neptune during spin, and from what I've researched my choices are:

1) Replace Outer Tub Assy, Spinner Support, & misc seals
2) Replace only the bearing that are bad in these two parts
3) Throw it out and buy something new.

I like option 2 the best. Is it true that the Outer Tub Assy in NLA? I saw some mentions of that and the parts houses don't seem to stock it. Also, I read something about the replacemnt parts being upgraded from the original (mines an old MAH3000AWW).

Anyway, you mention that the Tony Tool is only $50, but from what I see on their websit, the tool is $479, and the bearings kit is $50. Or is there a different version of the tool that mere mortals can afford?

Oh, and where are people purchasing the repair manual from?

Thanks. This thread has been great!
 
  #17  
Old 07-12-06, 07:08 AM
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You can get the repair manual at several on-line sources. repairclinic.com has one or else you might want to try others for best pricing. I think I got mine at pcappliancerepair.com but I don't see it list any longer.
 
  #18  
Old 08-17-06, 10:14 AM
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Service Manual

I found this online for free @

http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/16010061new.pdf

Hope this helps. I am going to try and replace mine as soon as I can get the parts. It is screaching something horrible.
 
  #19  
Old 11-03-06, 04:21 PM
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Belt Squeak

I was reading thru the various posts. Verify informative.
Our Neptune washer has experienced many of the same problems.

We had the same belt squeak when the tub changed directions. All we had to do was spray the belt with belt dressing. The squeak went away and all is well.... Kind of... Our washer has developed the howl during the spin cycle. It looks like I will be replacing tub bearings in the near future...
 
  #20  
Old 11-16-06, 11:33 AM
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Replacing bearings and seal in Maytag Neptune

It is possible to replace these bearings. I just finished doing it on my 8 year old Neptune.
I checked out the "Tony Tool" but at over $400 it isnt for the home handyman.
Then I found http://beesmart-ezway.com
They sell a homeowner kit with the bearings, a seal, glue and grease for the seal and also a few crude tools for driving out the bad bearings and driving in the new ones. The tools are basically a pipe and a rectangular piece of steel bar stock but they are well thought out and they work. Also, the instructions in the kit are very good.
The kit costs about $135. I know I could get the bearings and seal for less but my time is worth something to me and this kit allowed me to do it myself in 2.5 hours and it works great.
Three more tips for anyone doing this:
1) freeze the new bearings in the freezer for two days before you install them and dont take them out until just before you install each one. This will minimize the OD of the new bearings and make them easier to install.
2) You are going to need a hand sledge to drive out the old bearings, especially the front one.
3) Get yourself a large can of "Dust-off" (the canned air you use to blow out your computer with). Before you drive out the front bearing (you drive the back one out first) pop off it's inner shield/seal, exposing the balls inside. Take the can of dust off, install the small extension tube in it's nozzle, turn the can UPSIDE DOWN and spray the bearing balls with the liquid that comes out until the bearing is very frozen. This will shrink it away from the hub it is pressed into and make extraction easier.

Good Luck!
 
  #21  
Old 12-29-06, 08:36 AM
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Problem using the kit from beesmart-ezway,

I ordered the kit from beesmart-ezway and installed it. I am having troubles with water still leaking from the weep holes. Any idea's?


Originally Posted by jspad View Post
It is possible to replace these bearings. I just finished doing it on my 8 year old Neptune.
I checked out the "Tony Tool" but at over $400 it isnt for the home handyman.
Then I found http://beesmart-ezway.com
They sell a homeowner kit with the bearings, a seal, glue and grease for the seal and also a few crude tools for driving out the bad bearings and driving in the new ones. The tools are basically a pipe and a rectangular piece of steel bar stock but they are well thought out and they work. Also, the instructions in the kit are very good.
The kit costs about $135. I know I could get the bearings and seal for less but my time is worth something to me and this kit allowed me to do it myself in 2.5 hours and it works great.
Three more tips for anyone doing this:
1) freeze the new bearings in the freezer for two days before you install them and dont take them out until just before you install each one. This will minimize the OD of the new bearings and make them easier to install.
2) You are going to need a hand sledge to drive out the old bearings, especially the front one.
3) Get yourself a large can of "Dust-off" (the canned air you use to blow out your computer with). Before you drive out the front bearing (you drive the back one out first) pop off it's inner shield/seal, exposing the balls inside. Take the can of dust off, install the small extension tube in it's nozzle, turn the can UPSIDE DOWN and spray the bearing balls with the liquid that comes out until the bearing is very frozen. This will shrink it away from the hub it is pressed into and make extraction easier.

Good Luck!
 
  #22  
Old 01-01-07, 01:38 PM
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parts for the job

Hi..

Happy New Year!

We have a Neptune washer, (the 3000 model) that is just 9 years old. At 3 years the wax motor/door lock/control panel issue happened..which Maytag DID cover parts & we paid the service call. Now we have the drum bearing problem and it is getting noisier by the load. My husband is totally willing to try & fix it (he can fix just about anything) & after looking at new washers & dryers today..he is motivated! I am guessing that we also have the problem with the leaking seal.

So...while he has the thing torn apart..what parts should he replace & where is the best place to get them? He won't need any tools.

Thanks!
 
  #23  
Old 01-02-07, 09:55 AM
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Bearing replacement.

I emailed the guys at Tony Tool to see if I could get a bearing and seal kit from him. Unfortunately he only works with dealers. But they had some great advice and sent me the following part numbers for the seals and bearings. The seal kit will have to be purchased from Maytag but the bearings can come from a local bearing supplier like NAPA. I will attach a link to the Tony Tool web site that has a great video of how to disassemble the washer and replace the bearings. You do not need the Tony Tool to get the bearings out. I used a piece of small dia. pipe and drove the rear bearing out first and the then the front. Below is the link and the reply from the guys at Tony Tool.

I would recommend using the seal kit from Maytag. I bought a kit from Bee Smart eezway and I am having some problems with the seal. I am going to replace that seal with one from Maytag unless someone can give me an idea of what may be wrong.

The job takes about 2-3 hours and is not that difficult. The Tony Tool video is was a great help.

Good Luck

http://www.tonytool.com/page3.htm

GET THIS PART SEAL KIT MAYTAG NU. 12002022
FROM LOCAL MAYTAG DEALER OR ON LINE
THEN GO GET A BIG HAMMER AND A PIECE OF PIPE
SIZE TO FIT INSIDE HOLE OF BEARING GAS PIPE STOCK
WORKS THE BEST AND TAKE YOUR TIME WATCH VIDEO
FOR POINTERS DRIVE OUT REAR BEARING FIRST TAKE
SPACER OUT THEN DRIVE FRONT BEARING OUT
WHEN PUTTING TOGETHER PUT REAR BEARING IN FIRST
THEN PUT SPACER IN FRONT HOLD IT IN THERE CENTERING
IT WITH A HOMEMADE WOODEN DOUWEL ROD DRIVE THE FRONT
BEARING IN JUST TILL IT TOUCHES PUSH OUT WOODEN ROD
THEN YOU GOT IT MADE O I ALMOST FORGOT THE BEARINGS
YOU CAN GET LOCAL AT A BEARING DIST OR JUST GO TO
NAPA AUTO PARTS AND GET A 6207-2RS AND A 6206-2RS
SORRY I DON'T RENT THE TOOL AND I DON'T HAVE A
MAYTAG DEALER CONTACT IN YOUR AREA BUT I CAN
TELL YOU LOTS OF HOME OWNERS DID IT LIKE THIS WITH THE
HELP OF VIDEO MY SEAL KIT I OFFER IS A INCENTIVE
FOR THESE MAYTAG DIST TO BUY THE TOOL I DON'T
REALLY DO HOME OWNERS BUT IF YOU CANT FIND
THE SEAL AND BEARINGS I MINT BE ABLE TO HELP
BUT IF YOUR MECHANICAL YOU CAN DO THIS




Originally Posted by gardenmaniac View Post
Hi..

Happy New Year!

We have a Neptune washer, (the 3000 model) that is just 9 years old. At 3 years the wax motor/door lock/control panel issue happened..which Maytag DID cover parts & we paid the service call. Now we have the drum bearing problem and it is getting noisier by the load. My husband is totally willing to try & fix it (he can fix just about anything) & after looking at new washers & dryers today..he is motivated! I am guessing that we also have the problem with the leaking seal.

So...while he has the thing torn apart..what parts should he replace & where is the best place to get them? He won't need any tools.

Thanks!
 
  #24  
Old 01-02-07, 11:47 AM
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Cool thanks!

Thanks for the info..

I did just order the seal kit (part number 12002022 for $36.74) and went ahead & ordered a new belt (part number 12001788 for $16.82) while we were at it..genuine Maytag parts from pcapplianceparts.com (actually called the order in to be sure I was ordering the right thing.)..6.25 for shipping from Oklahoma to Michigan..

Ordered bearings from a local auto parts store..$18 & $12..thanks for the numbers.

I will update this after the repair..

thanks!

I have considered the possibility of purchasing the model 5500 Neptune (if this doesn't work) as one of the big box stores has them...at least it will match my dryer (sort of) and will be less than spending $$$ for a new pair plus the pedastals which I would buy if buying all new stuff.... does anyone know if this model has upgraded any of the old issues?
 
  #25  
Old 01-02-07, 07:26 PM
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I could be wrong but I think the neptune washer is no longer made. Maytag released the new Neptune just before Whirlpool acquired Maytag. The new Matag Epic front loader is built by Whirlpool. Whirlpool transferred the Kitchen Aid front loading laundry line to Maytag. I have heard nothing good about the Neptune or any of Maytag's recently made products for that matter. It seems like all of them are problematic at best. Hopefully Whirlpool will improve the quality of the Maytag line or discontinue production of their problematic designs.
 
  #26  
Old 01-08-07, 07:08 AM
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Thumbs up so far so good!

Ok..

My Neptune now has new bearings! I have run a few loads & everything seems fine. (of course ANY sound it makes now I am trying to remember if that's normal or not)

In the near future we will post some additional tips/comments about the job. My husband watched the Tony Tool video.. (hmmm...) and it did give him ideas on how to make his own pulling tool...but it took some pounding as well...he did do the job with the inner tub still in the machine. The directions that came with the seal kit were awesome & he did less take apart of the front door & seal than they did on the video.

One other thing I will mention at this point is how disgusting the inner tub was! We do have rusty water, which in itself looks bad, but there was black slimy stuff at the front edge, by the drain & in the area by the bearing, way back into those pointed areas...yuk! To think I was putting my clothes in there to get clean!

Thank you everyone for all your helpful info!
 
  #27  
Old 01-09-07, 06:55 AM
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Angry alas..spoke too soon

Well..the washer did 2 loads..then when I opened up the door..the clothes were sopping wet...took them out..tested the cycles...sounds like the belt came off the back..we did put a new one on and it fit very tight...but also, the drum sounds "rough" at the front where it rides against that brush...and there were pieces of that in the washer....I wonder if it is not laying flat after putting it back together...hubby NOT happy & ready to sledge hammer the thing...he might attempt to put the old belt back on..but I don't know if I can convince him to take the front apart or not...anyone else had an issue with that brush seal thing?
 

Last edited by gardenmaniac; 01-09-07 at 06:56 AM. Reason: spelling error
  #28  
Old 01-09-07, 07:25 AM
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Extreme So. Cal.
Posts: 21
Sorry to hear you are having problems. Neptunes sure are challenging, aren't they? Are you sure it went together correctly? I didn't have trouble with the "brush" when I did my repair. Mine is still humming along. No problems, knock on wood!
 
  #29  
Old 01-09-07, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3
Same here, Sorry to hear you are having troubles. I also had no problems with the front. I would recommend take the front apart and double checking.
 
  #30  
Old 01-11-07, 05:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
Unhappy time to go shopping

Well..hubby checked out the Neptune..again..the back pulley had come loose/off & so he tightened it back up & put the belt back on..I couldn't get him to take the front off...so I ran 3 more loads..there is still bits of plastic stuff in the washer..like the brush has melted and come apart & after load 3, there is now water on the floor..hubby said "go shopping.. I'm done"...

so..I guess I am going to purchase something else..

Anone have any idea on what they would buy in a new front loader? I am trying to decide if I should go with a Whirlpool or Fridgidaire...I am NOT going to spend big bucks again..so anything over $800 is out...
 
  #31  
Old 01-11-07, 09:11 PM
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Location: Extreme So. Cal.
Posts: 21
Another Maytag Neptune: R.I.P.
 
  #32  
Old 01-15-07, 06:42 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
bought Bosch

Bought a Bosch Nexxt 300 Washer...it's home & washing....so far so good.
 
  #33  
Old 01-16-07, 02:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3
Belt too short

I think that the new belt is the cause of fault -2" short (old one is 54"- New 52")
This creates great side tension to the bearings and also sending tub out of alignment (evidence-seal leaking). Eventually the bearings or the motor bearings will go out.
I try to find the correct belt, even call the old manufacturer (new belt is from new manufacture) but they discontinued production of this belt. I am continue to use my 8 years old belt but don’t know for how long




Originally Posted by gardenmaniac View Post
Well..the washer did 2 loads..then when I opened up the door..the clothes were sopping wet...took them out..tested the cycles...sounds like the belt came off the back..we did put a new one on and it fit very tight...but also, the drum sounds "rough" at the front where it rides against that brush...and there were pieces of that in the washer....I wonder if it is not laying flat after putting it back together...hubby NOT happy & ready to sledge hammer the thing...he might attempt to put the old belt back on..but I don't know if I can convince him to take the front apart or not...anyone else had an issue with that brush seal thing?
 

Last edited by angel6353; 01-16-07 at 03:49 PM.
  #34  
Old 01-23-07, 08:07 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1
Unhappy Maytag MDG300AWW

I just repaired my washer Model#:MAH3000AWW last week, but now my dryer model#:MDG3000AWW is making noise while pressing the start button, but the machine will not start. I tried turning the drum manually and it is hard to make it turn. However, when I removed the front cover as well as the part that attached with the lint filter which also connect or cover the fan/blower and then try manual turning and it was truning freely without any noise. I checked the gliding pads and they seem to be fine, but was not sure what's holding or if there is any gliding pads near the rear of the drum. If there is no clothes loaded in the machine or only a few pieces, then the machine is spinning except a little noise at first when the start button is press.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback.

Fong
 
  #35  
Old 01-24-07, 06:23 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3
Wrong bearings

I just replaced my washer bearings (it took me 45minutes), but the parts cost $51.49 and $24.99 from "NAPA".
Perhaps you bought wrong parts.
My washer is working perfect.

I did just order the seal kit (part number 12002022 for $36.74) and went ahead & ordered a new belt (part number 12001788 for $16.82) while we were at it..genuine Maytag parts from pcapplianceparts.com (actually called the order in to be sure I was ordering the right thing.)..6.25 for shipping from Oklahoma to Michigan..

Ordered bearings from a local auto parts store..$18 & $12..thanks for the numbers.
 
  #36  
Old 01-25-07, 05:54 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
update..

I have not checked this board for a few weeks as after buying the new washer I was trying to forget the wasted day's efforts and $100...

I do think that the new belt was probably the cause of death for my Neptune...the bearings were correct..they were the ones that everyone said to get...(I am thinking that pricing is just different in different parts of the USA and different stores)

I am pretty frustrated as we did not NEED a new belt..just was trying to be proactive..and yes..the new belt was VERY tight..it makes sense that it was pulling the drum out of allignment..that would account for the plastic brush pieces that were in the washer...too much pressure against that brush....should have put the old one on and maybe it would still be running...anyway..my neptune is in the back garage...going to put it on e-bay one of these days for parts...

Maybe it can still be repaired by someone who is willing to tear it apart again..but now the old belt in in the landfill somewhere..and the only way my hubby is going to touch the thing again is when it's on its way out the door....

Good luck and hope someone learns from this to NOT replace the belt!

I do like my new Bosch 300 so far...
 
  #37  
Old 02-02-07, 03:10 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1
Mah3000aww

Hello, to all the maytag neptune satisfied cowners lol.
Ok, I found this page while trying to find out how to do bearings and seals on our neptune. I pretty much got the washer and dryer for free about 6 months ago one my mother decided that she rather keep the top load maytag washer than to have something that look nicer and more moder so she let me have the set. I had seen them in the sear's store before and seem nice reminded me of the fron heavy duty front loader I use to use in laudrymats. Well after about 2 month the water pump when out on the washer and 2 weeks latter the igniter on the dryer. I was not feeling like doing the work my self so I call a technician to fixed them. 200 dollars for the pump and 100 dollars for the igniter latter The dryer work fine however the washer sound it terrible the dreaded center bearing so I called the tech again and he confirmed that it was the bearing also told me that I should call maytag to see if they would deal with the problem it was obvious he did not want to have the headache to deal with it he did not even want to quote me to fixed it. So It was time for me to deal with the problem I thought about purchansing a new washer however then I would have to purchace a dryer to have a matching set and even if I just purchase the washer I was looking to spend well over $800 dollars. So I took the pludge and purchase the seal kit on ebay for $35 and the bearings for $15 both. It took some pounding on the old bearing one came out piece by piece but eventually they came out and the new bearings and seal whent in. Ohh how glad that was over. or was it lol.Well it seem that now the timer stops at the begining of the rinse cycle and the washer turn off however if I turn it back on the cycle continues and since I don't feel like baby sitting the machine I would like to know if anyone had a similar situation and what was the repair/answer. Since I am getting near the half way mark of the cost of a new washer I want to consider the repair cost and then decide to keep it or trash it. Which bring me to since these new maytags are nothing like the old model what other washer would you guys recomend. Thanks
 
  #38  
Old 03-17-07, 01:03 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Columbus area
Posts: 2
Neptune shutting down before spin cycles...

I seen a solution to this problem at www.neptunewaxmotor.com , in the FAQ section.

This is caused from the water inlet screens getting clogged up over time. If the Neptune does not fill up in time, approx. 6 minutes, it shuts down. Shut off the water supply, remove hoses and look up into the water inlets and pull out the build up from the screens... I hope this helps...
 
  #39  
Old 03-20-07, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2
Angry Bearings Shot

Well it looks like I have been bit by the "bad bearing" problem with my Neptune washer (MAW3000AWW). Its 8 or 9 years old so its not unexpected based on what I've read here. I've ordered the seal kit from repairclinic.com (Maytag # 12002022). I went to NAPA to get the bearings but the costs were out of sight. The 6206-2RS was $27 and the 6207-2RS was $59. Ouch! I passed on them and did a little internet searching. I found the same bearings (6206-2RS and 6207-2RS) from VBX Bearing for $4.95 and $9.95 (thats right...$5 and $10!!!). Shipping will be a few bucks on top of that. The web site is http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc. The bearings have dimensions of 30x62x16 and 35x72x17 when you search the site.

I also did some checking on a new drive belt. The one that Maytag "replaced" the original 22002040 belt with is 2" shorter (part #12001788) and won't work without a bunch of other mods. I did find a used belt on ebay for $5 but passed on it. I think I may have found a supplier for them. If it pans out, I'll pass that info along in my next post.

Now I wait for the parts and do the deed! I'll let everyone know what happens!
 
  #40  
Old 03-29-07, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2
Smile The deed is done!`

Well the washer is fixed. It took me about 3 hours but I also replaced the Door Boot (seal) while I was at it. The old one was covered with mildew. Getting the shaft driven back out of the old bearings was a chore. The bearings had rusted to the shaft. A large (5#) hammer did the job however. The new VBX bearings (see previous post) are working like a champ...quiet and smooth. All together I had just over $100 in the parts (w/ the cheap bearings). I hope it lasts for a while!
 
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