Kenmore 80 series washing machine won't spin unless..


  #1  
Old 12-16-04, 04:31 AM
Jet
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Unhappy Kenmore 80 series washing machine won't spin unless..

My 6 yr old Kenmore 80 series washing machine model # 110.28802890 won't spin unless I open then close the lid during the spin cycle. As I open the lid I hear a "clunk" and the tub turns a little. If I don't do this, when it comes to the spin cycle all I hear is a humming sound and the tub doesn't spin. The motor coupling looks good. I already have installed a new timer and it was acting the same way with the old timer. I've ohm checked the motor switch, the motor and the lid switch.They check out good according to the manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Last edited by Jet; 12-16-04 at 06:40 AM. Reason: Add more information.
  #2  
Old 12-16-04, 08:41 PM
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Try looking in the back at the motor coupling to thr drum as someone switches it on. Post back and let us know
 
  #3  
Old 12-17-04, 05:45 AM
bigjohn1
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These machines have a pause built into the operation that sets the transmission mechanism for spin. Pull up a chair next to the machine, watch an entire cycle [start to finish] and see if the pause is in fact taking place. If no, you might have a bad timer. If it does pause, you might have a transmission problem.
 
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Old 12-18-04, 04:08 PM
Jet
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First, thank you both for responding. I removed the cabinet and jumped out the lid switch put the washer through a whole cycle. It washed OK, paused, drained with a spin OK, paused, went to spin and it just hummed. I looked at the motor coupling and it was spinning but the tub was not. I pushed the timer in then out and it "clunked" and started to spin. It rinsed OK, paused, drained with a spin OK, paused, then did the same thing went it was supposed to spin. Is there something in the gearcase that resets when power is disconnected and then reconnected?
 
  #5  
Old 12-18-04, 04:58 PM
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Hi Jet,
- I know there's some kind of clutch involved with the coupling, but have never ripped one apart, so i don't know if it's electrical or centrifugal, - sorry, maybe Bigjohn will know more about this.
 
  #6  
Old 12-20-04, 04:53 AM
Jet
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Jet

One other thing I forgot to mention, I did notice that at the end of the drain with a spin cycle the tub stopped spinning sooner empty than it did with a load of clothes in it. The tub (with clothes) was not at a complete stop before the machine entered the actual spin cycle. The pause is very short. The test I did with the machine empty entered the actual spin cycle with no problem where as the machine when filled with clothes did not and just hummed. I'm thinking maybe that if the tub is not fully stopped from spinning before it gets the signal to enter the actual spin cycle then it won't engage the gearcase. Yes/No?
 
  #7  
Old 12-30-04, 10:34 AM
ernie3305
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Kenmore washer spin problems

I have been researching a similar problem over the last few weeks (my washer is a Kenmore 90 Series – Heavy Duty, Model 110.20922990). In my case, the washer sometimes misses the final spin and leaves wet clothes that I have to re-spin. Anyway, here’s some information…

The washer you refer to, like mine, is manufactured by Whirlpool (that’s what the “110.” prefix on the model number tells you (you can verify this at http://www.appliance411.com/parts/sears.shtml).

I’m going to assume here that your washer is a direct drive model (no belt and pulley system) if this is not the case, then the following discussion won’t really apply.

In the course of the cycle, the motor, pump and transmission turn one direction to agitate (while the pump circulates water) and then in the reverse direction to drain the water and spin the clothes dry. When the motor first switches from forward to reverse (from ‘agitate’ to ‘pump out’) the basket should not spin. This is called a ‘neutral drain’ cycle (that is, the transmission is in neutral while the tub is draining). Then, when the timer pauses after the drain cycle, the transmission engages – usually with a thump – and the spin starts.

From your description, the neutral drain mechanism inside the gearcase is not engaging and disengaging as it should. That’s why you’re getting a spin during the drain cycle and not during the spin cycle. By opening the lid, you are pausing the timer and motor and allowing the neutral drain mechanism to disengage.

By your posting, you have ruled out the timer, lid switch, and motor coupling as problems – all of which I agree with fully – that leaves only the gearcase as the culprit for your problem.

There have been a number of discussions on the “no spin” and “spin too soon” problems in the alt.home.repair newsgroup. Typically the parts you’ve checked and replaced get pointed at as problem areas first, and the gearcase comes last because it’s sort of a pain to replace and a more costly solution. Here are some ideas for you to follow up on…

Is there a “parts only” warranty still active? If so, it might be more cost effective for you to place a service call and pay the labor charge to get the gearcase replaced. I have found prices from $140 - $160 for this part for my washer. If the service call labor cost is less than this amount, it makes sense to let “the man” put in the part under warranty and pay just the lower cost labor charge. Be sure to check out the total costs both ways.

If you want to see what the job of replacing the gearcase entails, buy a $15 manual (from here http://repair2000.com/books.html for example) and look over the diagrams. Don’t just go in and start pulling the appliance apart blind. Also, keep in mind that the repair guys might not work to finish a job you’ve started since they don’t know exactly what you’ve done and don’t want the liability if the washer doesn’t work after they touch it.

It is possible to replace just the neutral drain mechanism inside the existing gearcase. The last price I saw on this option for my washer was less than $20. However, I have also read at least one cautionary tale posted in the newsgroup by someone who tried this route to fix a drive gear problem. He worked three days and still wound up with a new gearcase in the end as he was unable to get his repaired transmission to function. So be aware that the insides of the transmission may prove difficult to repair.

Best of luck in whatever you decide; let us know how it goes.
 
  #8  
Old 01-05-05, 07:02 AM
Jet
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Thank you for your response and advice. I'll post back as soon as I can on the outcome.
 
  #9  
Old 03-14-05, 11:28 AM
Jet
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I replaced the gearcase in my Kenmore 80 series washer and it works great. It's also a lot quieter. Thank you all for your imput and I hope that this helps someone else out someday.
 
 

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