Kenmore Dryer only runs while button is pressed

I have a 3 year old Kenmore (Model# 110.62942100) dryer that only runs when the Push To Start (PTS) switch is depressed. If you let go, it stops running. I've tested everything I know how to from the tech sheet, and here's what I've found:

- Thermistor resistance ok
- Heater element resistance in spec
- Thermal cut-off and thermal fuse intact
- Timer voltages ok
- PTS switch voltages ok
- 0VDC, 0VAC (COM to NO) at Motor Relay when running
- 0VDC at Heater Relay when running
- Same behavior when relays are swapped

The tech sheet recommends replacing the Even Heat Control Assembly, but several people have said that I shouldn't rule out the motor. Both are expensive, so I don't want to make a mistake.

So, my question is: How do I determine which of the two components is bad?

 

Check this out and see if it applies.

http://fixitnow.com/2003/12/mailbag-...art-button.htm

 

I have the same problem with a 2 year old model 110.63942101 Kenmore dryer. I have already replaced the electronic control board ($100) and it's still the same. I read somewhere that the centifugal switch on the motor may be the culprit, however this requires a complete new motor. Also, this is not be an easy fix as the fan may be stuck to the motor shaft. I too would llike to know how to verify the faulty component before going any further as this is getting expensive!
I tried the diagnostic test as descibed on the Tech Sheet and didn't get a single beep.

 

I swapped the motor relay for the heater relay this morning and BINGO, the motor continued to run after I released the push to start button. There's no heat but at least the wife can fluff the clothes until I get a new relay.

 

Gmaxx,
Thanks for the link. That's the second recommendation I've seen for replacing the board (other one was applianceaid.com, I think). I think I'll check out the motor before I commit, though. Plus, my wife is getting used to drying the laundry over to her parents. ;)

Fixorbust,
Sounds like your problem was the motor relay. When I swapped mine, nothing changed. I suppose they both could be bad, but that doesn't seem likely. By the way, my test mode didn't beep, either. Good luck!

Furious

 

hi furious
- you didn't mention if you checked the centrifugal switch, or is that what you called 'motor relay' in post #1. The cenrifugal is generally a separate item. To test it use a con. tester not voltmeter. Remove and label the wires, then check across 1-2 ,should be cont, with button out, resistance with in. terms 5-6 are same and terms 5-Bk are opposite, cont, with button in and res. with button out.

Do irt Right - Do it once.

 

Hello,

I just finished installing a new even heat control board, and now my socks & drawers are detting dried!

I finally ordered the control board because it didn't make sense to me that the motor switches could be bad, yet both relays tested bad when they were plugged in as the heater relay. Nothing on the schematic suggested to me that if the motor was bad, you wouldn't get 48VDC at the heater relay. This reasoning could have been wrong, but it looks like the result was fine.

Regards,

Furious

 

Good moves, furiousd77, and thanks for posting back with the solution.

Do it Right - Do it once.

 

Thanks for the help. I dunno if you guys get paid, but I really appreciated the input.

Regards,

Furious