Maytag F1, F3 Fault Codes & Parts

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  #1  
Old 02-08-05, 11:35 AM
schatham
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Maytag F1, F3 Fault Codes & Parts

Last Saturday, I cleaned our Maytag range, model MER5550AAH, and set it for the 3 hr clean cycle.

About 5 minutes before the end of the cycle, it gave me a bunch of beeps - that sounded like it was shorted or something (i.e. the beeps were a real stuttered tone, and not any sort of measured pattern or regularity or tone as compared to the beeps the unit usually gives you). I hit cancel, and waited for the oven to cool down so the door would unlock.

Once the door unlocked, I tried to use it, by just hitting the bake button and trying to heat the oven to 350. Immediately, the preheat light lit up, then went off, and then I got an F1 code in the display, along with a beep. I would hit cancel and it'd revert to the beep and F1 code until I was able to successfully cancel it off.

I read somewhere that powering off the unit for a certain amount of time might reset it. I did this, and it came back to me with an F3 code this morning, and then went to the F1 code again. The oven doesn't work, but the cooktop functions as it should. Any subsequent attempt to use the oven part of it, whether it's a clean cycle, broil, bake or whatever always gives the F1 code. The F3 code has shown up only once.

I called Maytag's service, they could only recommend a service technician in the area (who naturally hasn't returned my phone call). I called Sears, and the person I spoke with said it was most likely the clock (according to them, it's a single unit). My guess, after looking yesterday & seeing the error codes for the unit, is that it is most likely the clock, but could also be the Oven Temp sensor. Sears service said the F1 code was almost always the clock on this unit.

As someone who is competent enough to build & work on computers, I feel sure that I can replace the clock in this unit - at worst, it's reconnecting ribbon cables and working with circuit boards, which I know requires grounding myself before touching the boards, etc. What I don't know though, is within what amount of certainty could it be the clock versus some other component.

I'd like to chat with someone who's actually diagnosed & replaced one of these things, to get a feel for what I'm in for.

The other part of it is the cost of the part. I called Sears, and their part - #74003636 - is $198.99 + about $14.00 shipping. I stopped at a local Lowes yesterday - investigating prices on replacing the range - and they have a Parts Hotline, 800-476-8160 saying they have parts available for all makes & models of appliances. They are selling this item (they gave me Maytag Replacement Part # 12001626), for $124.60 + $6.99 shipping.

Being a complete tightwad, I like the chance of making a $130 mistake only slightly less than a $215 one. Just wondering why the vast difference in the cost?

Anyone else have a good source for appliance parts that may be more reliable than one of these two? a $75 difference between the only two local major appliance dealers on a single part has me concerned as to whether either price is correct.

Any help/advice appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-08-05, 11:09 PM
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Hi schatham,
- Sorry, I know nothing about this machine, or in fact any of the Maytag fault codes. We can only hope that somebody more knowledgeable will post in.

Do it Right - Do it once.
 
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Old 02-09-05, 08:11 AM
schatham
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Maytag range

Originally Posted by nomind
Sorry, I know nothing about this machine, or in fact any of the Maytag fault codes. We can only hope that somebody more knowledgeable will post in.
Here's where I stand now.

After I posted here yesterday, I made a couple more phone calls. One of the phone calls was to the owner of a TV & Appliance store who I trust to tell me the straight up on repairs & the like. He hasn't steered me wrong on anything yet.

He has to contract out the repairs himself, and he made a couple of phone calls on my behalf. He called me back and said that he was able to find out the following info:

the Sears Part number & the Part Number from Lowes cross referenced each other. Sears had the part for $199, Lowes for $124. His cost on the part would've been around $135 or so plus freight. He said he wouldn't think twice about getting the same part if he could find it for less money, and said that anyone with a familiarity with circuit boards & computers shouldn't have much problem installing this new clock.

The only question now is the F3 (sensor) code I got when I powered it off for a few hours. From what Sears said though, a bad clock will give you bad sensor info. I'm not 100% sure that what I've ordered will fix it, but hope that I have guessed right.
 
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Old 02-09-05, 08:50 AM
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The F-1 code on a Maytag is ERC (electronic range control) which means Clock. The F-3 on MOST ovens is an open circuit. That may be appearing due to the ERC not working. Hope this helps.
You can test the clock by doing the following:
Disconnect the power. Gain access to the clock. Unplug the touch pad ribbon (flat wire about 1-1/2 to 2" wide) Make sure it isn't touching anything that it could short out against. Turn on power. If you get an F-1 code replace the clock. No beep...replace the touch pad.
 
  #5  
Old 02-11-05, 06:35 PM
schatham
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Update on Maytag range

The F-1 code on a Maytag is ERC (electronic range control) which means Clock. The F-3 on MOST ovens is an open circuit. That may be appearing due to the ERC not working. Hope this helps.
You can test the clock by doing the following:
Disconnect the power. Gain access to the clock. Unplug the touch pad ribbon (flat wire about 1-1/2 to 2" wide) Make sure it isn't touching anything that it could short out against. Turn on power. If you get an F-1 code replace the clock. No beep...replace the touch pad.
Here is an update on it.

Got the part yesterday from Lowes. Put it in this evening. Made sure everything was grounded & static free.

Installed it, turned on the oven, and it pre-heats - for about 2 minutes and goes off. Doesn't heat up. Then it goes back to an F1 error code. About every 15 minutes it beeps about 20 times, and returns the F1 code again.

I took a look at the means to do the test you suggested this evening. However, the unit I have doesn't have the parts you mentioned. I have 4 or 5 wires across the bottom (each a separate wire, with a soldered tab receptacle type head on it). I dropped the old one down inside the stove, and moved one wire at a time up to the new unit once it was mounted. There is a connector on the right hand side of the clock unit, but it is not a ribbon cable. It's a connector that more or less resembles the 4 wire type connectors going to a hard drive. I saw no way to perform the test you suggested on this particular unit.

Called Lowes, and said that I wasn't sure if I got a bad part or what, but did notice that there were several capacitors on the back of the unit I received that were bent to about a 45 degree angle on the back of it. Nothing was obviously broken, but I was somewhat suspicious about the unit I received. Found out also, that Lowes offers a 60 day warranty on this part, as well, so I can return it.

After a few choice words, I called the repair tech, who, when I spoke to him the other day, said that the F1 codes on Maytags were almost always clocks......
 
  #6  
Old 02-11-05, 07:32 PM
schatham
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One more kick in the seat of the pants.....

I pulled the "new" clock, and replaced it with the old clock.

After reading some info about the sensors in them, I disconnected it, and put my ohmmeter on it. It read between 130-185 ohms. I reconnected everything, put it back together & turned the power on.

It now reads an F3 code regularly, every time I turn it on.

An F3 I believe is a bad sensor.

Crap.
 
  #7  
Old 02-12-05, 07:51 PM
schatham
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final follow-up

I took off the oven sensor today, and the wires broke off at the back of it. Found one locally $50.00 - replaced it and it works fine.

It was not until I swapped the clock out that it ever produced an F3 code more than once. I guess even an F1 code isn't really an F1 code......

Thanks for the help though....
 
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Old 04-11-06, 06:48 PM
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Unhappy Same issue

Originally Posted by schatham
Last Saturday, I cleaned our Maytag range, model MER5550AAH, and set it for the 3 hr clean cycle.

About 5 minutes before the end of the cycle, it gave me a bunch of beeps - that sounded like it was shorted or something (i.e. the beeps were a real stuttered tone, and not any sort of measured pattern or regularity or tone as compared to the beeps the unit usually gives you). I hit cancel, and waited for the oven to cool down so the door would unlock.

Once the door unlocked, I tried to use it, by just hitting the bake button and trying to heat the oven to 350. Immediately, the preheat light lit up, then went off, and then I got an F1 code in the display, along with a beep. I would hit cancel and it'd revert to the beep and F1 code until I was able to successfully cancel it off.

I read somewhere that powering off the unit for a certain amount of time might reset it. I did this, and it came back to me with an F3 code this morning, and then went to the F1 code again. The oven doesn't work, but the cooktop functions as it should. Any subsequent attempt to use the oven part of it, whether it's a clean cycle, broil, bake or whatever always gives the F1 code. The F3 code has shown up only once.

I called Maytag's service, they could only recommend a service technician in the area (who naturally hasn't returned my phone call). I called Sears, and the person I spoke with said it was most likely the clock (according to them, it's a single unit). My guess, after looking yesterday & seeing the error codes for the unit, is that it is most likely the clock, but could also be the Oven Temp sensor. Sears service said the F1 code was almost always the clock on this unit.

As someone who is competent enough to build & work on computers, I feel sure that I can replace the clock in this unit - at worst, it's reconnecting ribbon cables and working with circuit boards, which I know requires grounding myself before touching the boards, etc. What I don't know though, is within what amount of certainty could it be the clock versus some other component.

I'd like to chat with someone who's actually diagnosed & replaced one of these things, to get a feel for what I'm in for.

The other part of it is the cost of the part. I called Sears, and their part - #74003636 - is $198.99 + about $14.00 shipping. I stopped at a local Lowes yesterday - investigating prices on replacing the range - and they have a Parts Hotline, 800-476-8160 saying they have parts available for all makes & models of appliances. They are selling this item (they gave me Maytag Replacement Part # 12001626), for $124.60 + $6.99 shipping.

Being a complete tightwad, I like the chance of making a $130 mistake only slightly less than a $215 one. Just wondering why the vast difference in the cost?

Anyone else have a good source for appliance parts that may be more reliable than one of these two? a $75 difference between the only two local major appliance dealers on a single part has me concerned as to whether either price is correct.

Any help/advice appreciated.
I had the same issue last night. Wife cleaned the oven....said it finished..hit cancel to open the door and the f1 error code came up. I attempted to research it last night and was told that the clock (controller) was bad. I had to replace the ERC. I did so after paying an inordinate amount of money for overnight shipping to find that once I replaced it...I have the same F'in error code (pun intended) I called Maytag...no joy there. I sent an email which will hopefully be addressed. The cooktop worked but the oven/broiler didn't. I will take any suggestions if you had success since february.

Thanks.

Josh Wolf
Tampa
[email protected]
 
  #9  
Old 11-24-12, 07:03 PM
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Please try this before ordering new pc board

Shut the brakers first.
Please don't replace the electronic board at first sight. :NO NO NO: There is a flat wire (or multi wire) cable connecting the led control panel to the PCB itself. Check the solders of this flat cable, you should find cracked solders. They are bulky and easy to fix, even with a crap solder gun. Resolder all, even the ones who seems OK, reconnect, and hope.. you will have done 50% of the job a REAL professional would have done.
Now, if the problem persist, you may think of replacing parts.

Alex
Electronic technician
 
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