Maytag Washer Timer Replaced--Still Not Advancing


  #1  
Old 07-11-05, 11:26 AM
pdxkevin
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Maytag Washer Timer Replaced--Still Not Advancing

I have a top loading electric Maytag Washer that I purchased in 1998. Recently the washer would stay on the same cycle indefinitely, so I concluded that I needed a new timer, and replaced it. No luck. It still won't advanced. The machine will fill the tank, start washing, and that's it unless I advance it manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 07-11-05, 12:02 PM
G
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Check the door switch.
 
  #3  
Old 07-12-05, 01:10 PM
pdxkevin
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Thank you for that suggestion. The door switch works fine. Either the new timer itself is broken, or power is not getting to the timer. I checked all connections, removed the new timer and placed it on a tall box in the back of the washer (connections in place), placed a small black mark with a felt tip pin on the gear wheel, and carefully plugged in the washer and started it. The gear wheel did not move, and obviously no cycles advanced. All switches in the control panel are working normally.

Any other suggestions? Is there a fuse, perhaps?

Thanks
 
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Old 07-12-05, 03:09 PM
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What cycle is it not doing ??

Generally

You turn the machine on the fill switch removes the power from the timer motor, once the water gets to the level the fill switch returns power to the timer and does the wash thing.
Next cycle,
Maybe the timer needs the water to be drained before it will get power from the level switch again.
Maybe your pump is bad.

Try turning the timer to the bad position without any water inside see if it moves.

Other switches send power to the timer Motor and some may remove power from the timer MOTOR.
 
  #5  
Old 07-12-05, 03:46 PM
pdxkevin
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When the water fills the tank, the machine will usually start agitating. There have been a few times when it has not. The water always fills to the appropriate level regardless.

I set the washer on the spin cycle and the timer does not advanced. I've tried manually changing the cycles to see if there is any movement....nothing. I did notice that on the new timer, the black wires that supply power to the timer motor are in a different solenoid lead position than the original.

Obviously I'm not an electrician, so is there a good way to test the timer itself to see if it's receiving any power? Are new timers shipped with any type of locking mechanism that has to be removed when opened by the consumer? I didnt see anything. I'm just thinking of all weird possibilities right now.
 
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Old 07-12-05, 06:20 PM
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When you turn the timer to any spin position. Does the machine spin ?

Does the water drain just before the timer stops ?

What makes you think the lid switch is good ?
=======================
" so is there a good way to test the timer itself to see if it's receiving any power? "
A multi meter
Or you can get a cheap tester that has two leads and a small bulb, make sure its rated over 120 volts.
Then place the leads on each wire that goes into the timer motor.
 
  #7  
Old 07-13-05, 09:43 PM
pdxkevin
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When I turn the timer to the any spin position, the machine spins.

The water does drain, but it will continue to spin until I advance the timer.

I believe the lid switch is good because the machine stop spinning if the lid is lifted. I noticed that the gear wheels on the timer were moving during the first main fill cycle only. When I lifted the lid, the machine continued to fill, but the gear wheels stopped moving and resumed when I closed the lid.

I removed both the hot and cold water hose from the machine and cleaned out the screens. They were heavily clogged with rust and sediment.

Thank you.
 
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Old 07-13-05, 11:33 PM
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I'm running out of suggestions. maybe I can find a manual on the net.
what's the serial and model number ?
Does your Maytag have another name type ?
 
  #9  
Old 07-14-05, 11:34 AM
pdxkevin
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Model: LAT8306AAE

Serial: 22084426SY

Thanks so much for your help.
 
  #10  
Old 07-14-05, 04:56 PM
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THE LID SWITH IS A 2 PART SWITCH 1 SIDE GOES TO MOTOR AND 2 GOES TO TIMER MOTOR.... LOOK AT WIRE DIAGRAM ON SEARS.COM AND YOU YOU WILL SEE THE WIRES.. CHECK THEM FOR VOLTAGE TO THE TIMER MOTOR
 
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Old 07-14-05, 06:53 PM
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Print your wiring diagram from this site.
http://www.partselect.com/

I agree the two lid switches are ok.

I would say your problem is with the GY wire connected to the water level switch point # 7 to 7N the timer.
Or timer switches # 8 or # 6 contacts inside or wires going to them.

Sometimes when they crimp the connectors on the wires it cuts the copper inside the insulation.
the insulation holds the wire in place but there is no connection from the cut wire.
Check all the wire crimps.

There appears to be more then one wiring diagram on the sears site
It may be possible to get the wrong timer (I think)
You may need to use your old timer for trouble shooting.

The timer you replaced, did it come with the switches or was it just the motor you changed ?
 
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Old 07-14-05, 07:02 PM
pdxkevin
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I replaced the entire timer. It's the same exact unit, model number, etc. One difference is the solenoid lead positions of the black wires to the motor.

I just removed the lid switch and am checking it.

Thanks again.
 
  #13  
Old 07-14-05, 07:32 PM
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I do Not think the lid switches are bad.
one switch is made to blow a fuse if it has a problem.
 
  #14  
Old 07-14-05, 09:13 PM
pdxkevin
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There was a wiring diagram tucked inside the control panel. I just need the magic decoder key to decipher it! Actually, I found a site that discusses wiring diagrams.

One thing I thought of this afternoon: A little over a month ago, I heard a loud squeal and smelled burning rubber. It appeared as if the tub was too heavy with towels. Before this, I did notice that the cycles took a long time to complete. This happened now and then, but wasn't a problem until recently. Could the overload been the final towel that broke the Maytag's back? Keep in mind all cycles work normally. I just have to manually advance the timer, and again, it did notice signs that something wasn't quite right in terms of the times of the cycles.

I'll check the crimps and the connections.

Thanks again for your time. I appreciate it.
 
  #15  
Old 07-16-05, 11:28 AM
pdxkevin
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SUCCESS!! After all of that troubleshooting and getting NOWHERE, I decided to take the new timer motor and put it on the older timer. I've never been so excited to see gears turn in my life. I actually cheered.

The new timer looks like it had not been assembled correctly. All I really needed was the timer motor, which would have saved me probably $50.

Thank you GWIZ and bambiblaster for your recommendations.

What a relief!
 

Last edited by pdxkevin; 07-16-05 at 04:04 PM.
 

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