Refrigerator side by side (Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling)

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  #81  
Old 07-21-05, 07:35 PM
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remove the wires and test for continuity. Try to do ot with it in the refrigerator. Un plug the ref first. Pull the connectors off the two ends of the element and do the test. Set the meter to 1X resistance and put 1 lead from the meter on each end and take a reading.On second thought take it out to do the test. I was trying to make it easy but that won't work.
 
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  #82  
Old 07-21-05, 07:46 PM
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I don't know how to take the heater out. I test the continuity before and it tested good.
 
  #83  
Old 07-21-05, 07:58 PM
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Cant say how the heater comes out, looks like clips.

What were your ohm readings when you tested the heater. your post #15
read my post # 20.
 
  #84  
Old 07-21-05, 08:05 PM
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No. I just checked the continuity with a volt meter. Is shows the circuit was open, means no broken filament inside the heater. I have a multimeter, may be I need to do another test.
 
  #85  
Old 07-21-05, 08:11 PM
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what number did the meter show
 
  #86  
Old 07-21-05, 08:13 PM
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My meter does not have digital numbers. All I tested to see if the circuit was open or closed.

I have a digital multimeter but don't know how to use it.
 
  #87  
Old 07-21-05, 08:17 PM
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under those circumstances a closed reading is a good element and an open reading is a bad element.
 
  #88  
Old 07-21-05, 11:48 PM
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An other words, an open circuit, no completed connection.

Here is a link on meters read the section on resistance.
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/multimtr.htm

try using the digital meter. some of the very small analog meters don't check the low resistance very well.
change the battery in the digital meter if its over 2 years old.

If you want go to a electronic store and buy a 28 ohm resistor 1/4 watt for 50 cents you can compare that to your heater
remember to remove the power from your fridge.
 
  #89  
Old 07-22-05, 11:20 AM
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I used the multimeter. The meter is almost identical to the one on the link GWIZ provided.
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/multimtr.htm

I connected Black lead to the bottom hole on the meter and red lead to the hole next to the bottom. The top hole was not connected. I then tested the heater. At 200 Ohm setting, the meter read 21.

I was not able to take the heater out because it is weaving throough the evaporator coil at the bottom and therefore way beyond my limits. I will take the thermostat and find a replacement for it. If that does not work, I am not sure what is next. May be time to replace the ref.
 
  #90  
Old 07-22-05, 11:38 PM
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Change the heaters thermostat, be sure to make good quality connections.
The heater draws a lot of power and will not tolerate bad wiring.
ask for one with pre made connectors just like yours, take your old one and compare the connectors.

Your in the ball park as to your measurements on the heater.
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As joneq stated in post #55
" normal for the freeze is 0 to 10 degrees and less than 40 for the milk section.......
The coils and the defrost problems should have no effect on the cooling at this point since the evaporator was all clear last night."

you may-may be low on freon, or a bad pump.
you would need to call someone to find out.
-----------------------------
Some times a clue on low freon, is the coils freezing on a lower part of the coils, while the upper part stays clean.
The only way to loose freon is a leak OR thru a fitting like on your car tires air valve if-if your fridge has one.
only a professional can add freon to your system.
Take a look for the fitting next to your pump.
-----------------------------
Just a note on your digital meter.
When the battery gets weak the voltage readings may tend to read Hi
 
  #91  
Old 07-23-05, 07:08 AM
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After all of the work I have done, most of it is with the help of both of you, GWIZ and JONEQ. I have to say that I have learned a lot about how the system works from you two. I have gone far enough in the inside of the refrigerator than I had imagined. I have changed Defrost Thermostat & the Timer. The system is apears to be working but the temps are no way near they should be. The Freezer is near 40 deg and ref is way too high around 60 deg. Not sure why the temp is not getting lower. The ice is being made though and stuff I put in the freezer last night was frozen this morning.

I have manually switched to defrost, after replacing the thermostat and heater came on and melted the ice build up on the evaporator coils.

I am now looking more and more towards a new Ref.
 
  #92  
Old 07-23-05, 07:56 PM
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GWIZ and JONEQ
Something I noticed just recently is that the condenser coils were not hot at all. I also did not feel any heat comming from the bottom of the refrigerator. It used to blow out heat before. It there another thermostat for the condenser side? Or another part near compressor that I need to check? Also how does the cold air is brought to the ref side? GWIZ you mentioned a pump in your last response. What pump are you referring to?

The defrost timer was definetively bad. I installed new timer and at the end of the cycle, the heater came on and the ice on the evaporator coils melted all the way, before the cycle started again.
 
  #93  
Old 07-23-05, 08:12 PM
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The freon picks up heat in the freezer and then goes back to the compressor where it is compressed making it even warmer. The purpose of the condenser is to have a place for the heat that was pick up to escape so the freon will be available to pick up as much heat as possible in the freezer. That is why the freezer will get warm if the coils are dirty. It is like when you put on a coat in the winter to stay warm. Heat cannot escape and you stay warm.

The fact that your condenser coils are not even warm means that you are low on freon or the compressor is shot.You are not picking up heat in the freezer that is why it is not cold enough You need a new compressor Imo.

If the defrost timer was not working, and I am not sure it wasn't, it was purely a coincidence. The refrigerater seems to be doing the same thing it was doing at the start of this thread even with the new defrost timer.

These things you are checking really have nothing to do with your problem. As much as you want it to be a timer or thermostat it isn't imo.
 
  #94  
Old 07-23-05, 08:22 PM
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You are absolutely correct that I am back to where I was at the start of this thread.

The compressor appears to be running when the system cycles. I can hear it running. It only shuts down when the deforst comes on.

Is it worth while to buy a pressure test meter and check the system pressure? Also what the pressure range should be that would tell me if the system is low in freon?
 
  #95  
Old 07-23-05, 08:27 PM
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Don't spend too much $$$$ finding out. Good Luck.
 
  #96  
Old 07-24-05, 01:28 AM
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" Also how does the cold air is brought to the ref side?"

The fan located inside the freezer compartment.
-----------------------------------
" GWIZ you mentioned a pump in your last response. What pump are you referring to? "

pump and compressor ? That would be the same thing, The big round thing.
-------------------------------------
" Is it worth while to buy a pressure test meter and check the system pressure? Also what the pressure range should be that would tell me if the system is low in freon? "

No.
If the compressor is bad the gauge may read low.
If your low on freon the gauge may read low.

------------------------
 
  #97  
Old 07-24-05, 06:16 AM
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A set of gauges to measure the pressures will start at $200 and go up. You will also need to install a bullet tap on the line since the frig is a closed system with no factory valves for checking pressure. If you find a leak, you will need a oxyacetelene torch and perhaps a nitrogen setup and accessories to fix it. You will also need to buy refrigerant which requires a EPA license.

In summary, your money is better spent on a new frig. After you quickly rule out the timer and defroster, you are often left with a bad compressor which is not a DIY project due the the expensive tools, skill and licenses required to open the closed system.
 
  #98  
Old 07-28-05, 08:11 PM
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Well,

It has been over a week and after replacing the Defrost timer and thermostat, the refrigerator appears to be working. Temp in both Freezer and Ref is about 10 Deg higher that it was suggested. The freezer is 20 deg and ref is 50 deg. Everything appears to be working otherwise.

It buys me some time and therefore not under pressure to purchase a new one soon.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 
  #99  
Old 07-28-05, 09:33 PM
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Hello.
Is the refrigerator continuously running non stop ?
or is it cycling on/off
 
  #100  
Old 07-29-05, 04:45 AM
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No the ref is not running all the time. It cycles every 8 hour. The new timer I installed is 8 hr timer. Old one was a 10 hr. I have placed a mark on the timer and have noticed that it is moving. The old timer was not moving at all.

By the way I had heck of a time trying to take the heater out earlier. I had taken the retaining clips out and was very difficult putting them back on. The heater is weaving through the evaporator coils and therefore may have to take the evaporator assembly out to replcace it.
 
  #101  
Old 07-29-05, 05:55 AM
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I think GWIZ is asking if it is running all the time except when it is defrosting, meaning 23+ hrs a day. When the compressor is running or defrosting is the only time it is really costing you money.

If it is running all the time when not defrosting, and since your ref only maintains 20 and fifty degrees I would play with the cold control and see if, after those temps have been reached, you can turn down[not off] the cold control to where the compressor turns off. It does you no good to have it up higher if the temp can't get there to eventually turn off the compressor.

If it doesn't turn off on the lowest setting I guess it doesn't matter where you put it.
 
  #102  
Old 07-29-05, 06:28 AM
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Thanks JONESQ.

I did mis-understood the question. I did notice this morning since I have been up, the ref has turned off at least once an hour and started the cycle back again.

Hardish
 
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