Refrigerator side by side (Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling)

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  #1  
Old 07-14-05, 03:20 PM
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Refrigerator side by side (Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling)

I have a 26 CF side by side Refrigerator. It is not cooling on the refrigerator side. The freezer side is still putting cool air around 40 digrees. Everything seems to be working but not cooling. I would like to try to fix it myself before calling the Pros. Any ideas you intelligent folks out there?

It is a whirlpool model #ED27RQXXW.

Thaks
 
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  #2  
Old 07-14-05, 04:25 PM
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We just did a very similar case from ted_he right in this forum. Read it over it may help. It is not always the heater but it is likely.

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=221583

Here is a link to your ref at the site

http://www.partselect.com/MultiModel...RefineSearch=0


And the heater if it turns out to be the part #33

http://www.partselect.com/WSchematic...l/BBISYTNG.gif.

It is a good idea to look at the coils.
 
  #3  
Old 07-14-05, 07:36 PM
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Thanks for a quick response. This forum is very helpful to person like me who has not attempted this kind of repair before.

Does the heater come out easily? If yes how? Also how do I know if the heater is bad?

I took the panel off. There was a lot of ice build up on the condenser. Is th heater bad that is why the ice buildup? I scraped some of the ice off. I have unplugged the Ref for overnight. Will see what happens tomorrow.
 
  #4  
Old 07-14-05, 08:03 PM
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Either let it defrost or use a hair dryer. The heater comes out easy once there is no ice. Looks like yours has 4 clamps.You'll have to see when you can.

To test the heater unplug the refrigerator and remove the wires and check the heater for continuity[resistance] and make sure it is very low resistance. If it is bad it will show a huge number meaning current cannot flow and it will not heat up. Kind of like a light bulb. If you look a bad one the filiment is broken so it can't heat up and glow.

Do a google search for -test for continuity- if you don't know how to check it. You need a meter[cheap one]
 
  #5  
Old 07-15-05, 03:21 AM
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Thanks again for a super fast response. I realy appreciate it very much.

Does the heater looks like a black 1/4" dia wraps arounds the sides and the bottom of the condenser? If yes, do I have to remove the condenser to separate the heater?

Thanks
 
  #6  
Old 07-15-05, 05:36 AM
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That is the evaporator not the condenser. You do not need to remonve the evaporator to get it out. your heater is a "U" shaped element. It is part # 33 on the pic at partsselect.com

http://www.partselect.com/WSchematic...l/BBISYTNG.gif

Match the part on your ref with Part #33. It sounds like the part you describe.


Keep in mind that although the heater was the problem in the other thread it is not the only thing that could cause your problem. Part # 35 in the same pic could be it or it could be the defrost timer. It would be a good idea to advanve the timer before dismantleing the heater.

Before you do any removing check this part. It is #6 on the diagram.




You need to use a small screwdriver to advance it into defrost mode. There is a slot. turn it clockwise till it clicks. It is now in defrost mode. The heater should come on . However that part I mentioned #35 is in the circuit and it will not allow the heater to come on if it is not cold enough in the freezer. I should have told you to do this first. My bad.

You can still check the heater if you want it may be the problem. It would be a good idea to do it now. Then when it ices up or gets cools enough you can advance the timer and see what happens. You could bypass the thermostat but don't.

Here is the defrost time click on the pic to see where it is. It looks like it is where you turn the dials to make it colder.

http://www.partselect.com/MultiModel...RefineSearch=0
 

Last edited by joneq; 07-15-05 at 07:37 AM.
  #7  
Old 07-15-05, 03:11 PM
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Thanks once again.

Where is the defrost timer located, in side the freezer or down below near the compressor?
 
  #8  
Old 07-15-05, 03:20 PM
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In where you keep the milk.It looks like you have to take off the cover where you turn the dials to make it colder.
 
  #9  
Old 07-15-05, 03:23 PM
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Inside the Refrigerator compartment under the control panel
look for a 3/8" hole for a screw driver.
 
  #10  
Old 07-15-05, 04:57 PM
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Not sure how to take the panel off for the thermostate. There are 4 white screws that more likely hold the whole panel including the light fixture. There are two other holes. One is blocked and the other has something about 1/4" dia RED knob. Appears to be for some adjustment. Not sure what.
 
  #11  
Old 07-15-05, 05:15 PM
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No.
He is talking about the heaters thermostat inside the freezer comp.
1-1/8" diameter two wires one going to the heater.
 
  #12  
Old 07-15-05, 05:57 PM
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I am asking about location of defrost timer and how to get to it. JONEQ said it is located in the refrigeration section, near the controls. I am not able to locate the screw or screws to remove the panel to located the timer.

While looking for the timer, I found the the only red knob about the size of 1/4" with appears to be a slot for philips screw driver.
 
  #13  
Old 07-15-05, 06:41 PM
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Joneq

From your response it appears that may be I need to look at the timer first before attempting to replace the heater.

Any idea how to get to the timer?
 
  #14  
Old 07-15-05, 07:20 PM
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Gwiz said to look under the control panel[without removing anything] for a hole to put your screwdriver in and turn till it clicks. The freezer has to be cold for the heater to come on so if the freezer isn't cold and you advance the timer and the heater doesn't come on it may still be good so make sure that the freezer is cold.
 
  #15  
Old 07-15-05, 07:35 PM
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I just tested heater with an ohm meter and it appears to be fine. There was another part near the heater about an inch in Dia with pink and brown wire with red connector at the other end. Not sure what this part is and how to test it.
 
  #16  
Old 07-15-05, 08:09 PM
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Forgive me if I appear to be slow following you guys direction. You both have provide very clear direction, it is I who is taking a while gettin it.

I believe the 1 1/8" dia part with pink and brown wire and red connector at the other end is heaters thermostat since one of the wires is connected to the heater. Is there a way to test the heaters thermostat ?

Also earlier in my response I wrote about the red knob with place for phillip screw. I think this is the defrost timer you guys are talking about.

I have plugged the refrigerater and am going to let it run overnite before testing the defrost timer.
 
  #17  
Old 07-15-05, 08:15 PM
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If it is connected to one if the wires that goes to one side of the heater it is the thermostat. This allows current to flow to the heater only when the refrigerator is cold enough to need defrosting. When it is not cold it is open and the heater will not come on. It's purpose is to turn the heater off in case the timer does not. When the freezer warms up it will open and cut the current to the heater. If you find the defrost timer and advance it and the heater comes on,assuming the freezer is cold enough, then the defrost timer is bad because it didn't do it by itself you had to advance it. If the heater doesn't come on I would vote for the thermostat in the freezer. It is stuck open.

Before you buy anything wait till some else verifies this. I am not a mechanic but I know enough.

You need to advance the timer and you need to do it when the compressor is running. When it goes into defrost mode the compressor will turn off and the heater should come on.

I wish I could help you more with finding these things but I can't. There should be access to the timer without removing anything. You need to look around for the hole that Gwiz was talking about.
 
  #18  
Old 07-15-05, 08:21 PM
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the timer will have a slot for a slotted screw driver not a phillips.
 
  #19  
Old 07-16-05, 03:23 AM
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Something in this link my help you.
You should read the full link.
If you don't at least start at post #20
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=212796
 
  #20  
Old 07-16-05, 03:26 AM
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I'm guessing the heater is 500 watts.
you can look at the label that states the power requirements, it may state the heaters watts.

500 watt heater will have an resistance of 28 ohms.
You can take the heater to a TV shop, ask them to check the resistance for free. it will only take 2 seconds.
If its over 75 ohms I would say its bad.
75 ohms it about 200 watts.
 
  #21  
Old 07-16-05, 07:32 AM
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After I plugged the refrigerator last night, it started working. Freezer side was cold this morning. The temp in Freezer side was little over 40 Deg and Refrigerator was 68 deg. The Refrigerator does not feel very cold.

I then advanced the timer, and a few minute later heater came on. It cycled a few minutes, heater turned off and rest of the cycle started.

Is there another test for timer?

Does it sounds like the drfrost timer? Or shoul I check something else.

Thanks
 
  #22  
Old 07-16-05, 08:20 AM
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If the freezer was defrosted last night when you plugged the ref back in it should have been very cold in the freezer this morning. Is the fan working in the freezer when the compressor comes on, and if you turn the cold control dial to it's lowest setting[while the compressor is running] does the compressor turn off.
 
  #23  
Old 07-16-05, 08:26 AM
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Yes the freezer was very cold. It showed 40 Deg this morning may be not cold enough to freeze things there. And yes the fan is working.

The compressor did turn off when I turned refrigerator control dial all the way to the left. The ice appears to be building on the evaporator coils.

Actually the temp in freezer is about 48 deg
 
  #24  
Old 07-16-05, 08:31 AM
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I am concerned that it is not colder in the freezer. did you put the cover on the back last night. Are all the coils covered with at least some frost
 
  #25  
Old 07-16-05, 08:32 AM
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I did not put the cover back on. Yes all of the coils are cover with a thin layer of ice except the heater.
 
  #26  
Old 07-16-05, 08:36 AM
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put the dial so that it is on the coldest setting to make the compressor come on then advance the timer just till the compressor stops and see if the heater still turns off after a few minutes.
 
  #27  
Old 07-16-05, 08:49 AM
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when the heater defrosts the coils the water drains into a tray below the heater what does it look like? is it empty?
 
  #28  
Old 07-16-05, 08:55 AM
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Yes to both of your questions.

I turned the dial all the way to coldest and then turned the defrost timer manually. The heater came on and melted the ice. I saw the water dripping. After a few minutes the refrigerator cycle started again.

Yesterday before I plugged the ref there was a lot of water in the tray. I vaccumed it out. I am sure there is water from the defrosting. I will check and let you know.

And yes ther is some water in the tray, clear water, not too much.
 
  #29  
Old 07-16-05, 09:17 AM
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the tray may be plugged up. clean out the hole in the bottom of it. I GUESS the defrost thermostat is turning off the heater since it is not too cold in there. I suggest clearing the drain and defrosting the freezer so it is free of ice[hair dryer].And see what happens I am still not nuts about the low temp in the freezer. It should freeze food.

If you free it of ice and put the cover back and the defrost timer is not working the freezer will get cold enough to freeze food and the ref will get cold too.

Normally if the defrost timer is not working it will take a number of days3,4,5-- for enough frost and ice to build up to affect cooling. Your freezer is not getting cold enough for me.

I am not a real mechanic so I would wait for some one more knowledgable than me to verify what I say. I would defer to them. I hesitate to tell you to get a timer. If your ref is not getting cold enough why would defrosting it help if there is not so much frost on the coils that cooling would be affected.
 
  #30  
Old 07-16-05, 09:27 AM
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After I manualy advanced the timer and heater came on, all of the ice had melted before the cycle ref started.

You asked me to check the trey. Does the trey collects water that sits there until the user drains it? As I stated there was a little water in the tray.

Did you mean to check the hole where the water is draining from the Frig into the trey?
 
  #31  
Old 07-16-05, 09:37 AM
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"Yesterday before I plugged the ref there was a lot of water in the tray"

There should not be a lot of water in the tray. It is self draining and you do not have to do anything if it is working right. The hole needs to be clear all the way to under the refrigerator.

If the coils are now free of ice and frost----put the cover on and set the controls to the middle. As I said before if the timer is not working it will take a few days to affect cooling. It should get down to zero or close to it in the freezer even if the heater does not come on. The compressor should run for quite a while while it is bringing the temperature down.
 
  #32  
Old 07-16-05, 09:51 AM
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The temp in freezer is 60 deg. I still have the cover off. I am checking the temp in the ref and it is 70 deg. not sure why it is not getting colder than that both in freezer and ref. Does the cover removed makes the difference?

Also should I clean the condenser coils more. There is some lint/dust on some of the coils.
 
  #33  
Old 07-16-05, 09:53 AM
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turn the cold control to the coldest setting to turn on the compressor[it should be running constantly though] then unplug the ref and plug it back in immediately. does the compressor come back on.
 
  #34  
Old 07-16-05, 10:29 AM
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I rutned both of the controls to coldest setting and then unplugged the Ref and plugged back on, The compressor started running, but made a little clicking noise fore very few seconds.

When I moved the thermomometer to the lowest part of the freezer it was reading below 35 deg. not sure why soo much difference.
 
  #35  
Old 07-16-05, 10:34 AM
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it started running and kept running. Also how long was it running before you unplugged it? Is it running constantly? If it is unplug it and plug it in again. Is the compressor hot or warm
 
  #36  
Old 07-16-05, 10:47 AM
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It has been running since last night when I plugged it. Only turned off when I manually switched the timer.

I feels very hot and appears to be constantly running.

The temp inside REf and Freezer is fluctuating a lot.
 
  #37  
Old 07-16-05, 10:50 AM
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That is not good. It is not cooling enough to satisfy the cold control. There could be a blockage too but you can't fix that. How old is the ref.
 
  #38  
Old 07-16-05, 10:52 AM
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did you clean the coils under the ref. Turn it off first. Make sure the fan underneath the ref is working too
 
  #39  
Old 07-16-05, 10:52 AM
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about 13-14 yrs from the date stamped on it.
 
  #40  
Old 07-16-05, 10:54 AM
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Did you clean the coils under the ref and make sure that fan is working
 
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