GE WPSE4270 Washer - Won't Spin


  #1  
Old 10-16-05, 09:02 PM
Michael Gould
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GE WPSE4270 Washer - Won't Spin

My GE WPSE4270 washing machine spin function is not working. The agitator works fine, lid switch is fine. After the agitator cycle, the spin cycle starts then immediately stops. The drum spins freely when I turn it by hand, the belt and belt tension are in good shape.

When the spin cycle is supposed to be on, the motor hums and gets hot, but the drum does not spin. The motor works fine for the agitator cycle - only spin is not working.

Any suggestions are most appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 10-17-05, 08:50 AM
J
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If the pump turns freely it sounds like there is something caught in the inlet hose going to the pump.if it doesn't turn freely it is in the pump impellor.
 
  #3  
Old 10-17-05, 02:24 PM
Michael Gould
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Thanks but the pump is ok

Thanks for the reply.

My pump seems to be working fine. Only issue is spin cycle when it switches from agitator mode, it tries to spin (goes around once or twice) then immediately shuts off. The motor continues to hum like it wants to spin, but it can't. The drum is still free to spin - i.e. not stuck.

Any other ideas?
 
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Old 10-17-05, 08:45 PM
J
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if you are saying the pump is pumping out the water[you said the pump was working ok] but the tub is not spinning and the belt is ok I think it must be something with the clutch or the tranny,but that would be making some noise. Can't figure out why the motor is getting hot if the pump is turning. It is turning right?

What happens if you START the washer in the drain position?
 
  #5  
Old 10-18-05, 04:38 PM
Michael Gould
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It seems like there is a soleniod or something that is preventing it from allowing the spin cycle to run. The Pump itself is a separate mechanism and works just fine. I can fill the tub with water, have it agitate the clothes in a normal way, then when it switchs to spin cycle it spins once, then shuts off. But I still hear motor hum. I can reach under the motor (carefully) and freely spin the belt and drum.

When i put it on drain cycle, the separate pump pumps the water out just fine.

It seems like a safety switch is being triggered or something.
 
  #6  
Old 10-18-05, 05:48 PM
J
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If you are sure the lid switch is good then if you have the wiring diagram find the spin solenoid and see if it is good. It is possible that the motor will agitate because this is a different direction than the spin. When it is done agitating it stops and reverses the motor. If the spin solenoid is not doing the job =no spin. The time is another spot. you may need the wiing diagram for that to find out where there should be voltage in the spin cycle.
 
  #7  
Old 10-18-05, 08:53 PM
Michael Gould
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Hey Jon,
Thanks again for your advice. The spin solinod sounds right to me. Is that something that can be replaced without replacing the entire motor? Any idea where it is located? My wiring diagram does not show it, but then again, my diagram is pretty basic.
 
  #8  
Old 10-18-05, 10:53 PM
J
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I can't really get a look at you washer on any site,and I am not familiar with it.There may be a relay in the top left corner on the back ot it may be on or near the motor itself.This would be the starting relay for the motor if it is there. A solenoid of sorts

"It seems like a safety switch is being triggered or something"

If that means the motor tries to start or starts then cuts out check the relay if there is one.

zoom in on the orange label here
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp...&SeqID=4&Chg=3

It says the original motor has been replaced with a new one with a harness, a relay and a capacitor. Maybe yours doesn't have one.

When a motor tries to start it draws a lot of current which sucks down the relay which adds the start winding with the capacitor in it. The capacitor adds some extra umf to start the motor so it doesn't trip the overload imbedded in the motor.This may be happening. It seems that GE washers may start in 1 direction[agitate] and not in the other[spin]. The most current is drawn in the beginning of the spin cycle till it builds up speed then it drops


You could also test the motor for and open winding. This may or may not help as the winding may open only after it has heated up.

How old is this machine?
 
  #9  
Old 10-19-05, 05:09 PM
Michael Gould
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I think you are on to something. I think the motor is overloading. I tested a few more times, it starts to turn on spin cycle then shuts off completely. My wire diagram shows an overload switch, but is it embedded in the motor?


any way to replace the switch without replacing the motor?

The unit is approx 10 years old.
 
  #10  
Old 10-19-05, 06:23 PM
J
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you can't replace the switch.It is embedded in the windings Did you test the motor?


Make sure that the power cord wires are disconnected from the motor. If it is easy to do, remove the motor from the appliance, though motors can be tested in place.
To test continuity (the flow of electricity) through the motor, set the multimeter on the RX1 scale to measure resistance (in ohms). The multimeter's internal battery will send a small electrical current through the motor's wires.
Attach one of the multimeter's probes to the motor's common lead, usually white.
Attach the other probe in turn to each of the other wires on the motor. The probe will be checking to see if it can measure the multimeter's input signal at the output. A low or moderate reading (in ohms) means the component is okay. A zero or infinite reading means the motor's windings or another component has a short.

There also should be not contiuity from any of the leads to the frame of the washer
 
 

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