Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling/freezing


  #1  
Old 10-21-05, 08:35 AM
aries
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Question Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling/freezing

I searched the forum for threads pertaining to my problem, but I did not find any (sorry if there was one and I missed it). I saw several folks with problems pertaing to just the freezer or just the refrigerator, but I have aproblem with both...

Whilrpool Conquest Gold
Side-by-side
approx 26 cu.ft.
1999 (been in use since mid-2000)

No cooling/freezing whatsoever
lights work
water dispenser working

I have to be honest, I haven't cleaned under it in a considerably lonnnnggggg time (and I do have pets in the house so there is probably some fur underneath ). I just noticed this late last night and I haven't time to actually move the appliance and check underneath it. Do you think it might just be a matter of dust/fur on the coils underneath (or am I wishful thinking)?

Thank you so much for any help you can offer!
 
  #2  
Old 10-21-05, 11:38 AM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,528
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
clean the coils and make sure the fan is running under the ref.

Are the coils under the ref warm-hot?

Is the compressor running at all?

any clicking going on?


Might as well throw in the model # too.
 
  #3  
Old 10-21-05, 12:18 PM
aries
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the reply Joneq!!!

I'll check those things as soon as I get home and let you know. As for a "clicking" sound, I can answer that now...yes, I have heard a sound like this, but it just sounded similar to the sound the icemaker produces when it is about to fill with water (I have since turned the icemaker off so I will pay attention when I get home to see if it is still "clicking.").

I ran out on my lunch hour and purchased that brush made especially for cleaning under the refrigerator. The guy at the hardware store also suggested using an air-compressor or reversing my vaccuum suction and blowing air underneath to really get it clean. I don't have the ability to do either of these things and I'm not so sure I should be hauling my leafblower into my kitchen for this purpose
 
  #4  
Old 10-21-05, 06:30 PM
aries
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi Joneq!

OK, when I got home, I cleaned the coils thoroughly (who knew that I was missing a dog and he was under there for the past three years

It has been about three hours since I cleaned the coils and it does not seem to be getting colder (maybe not enough time has passed?)

The model number is GD25DIXHS02. It is a 2001 model (I had a brain cramp earlier when I said 1999). The coils underneath are neither warm nor cold. Air is blowing our of the bottom-rear, but it is room temperature. Something is coming on inside, as I still hear a clicking-then buzzing sound (but the icemaker has been turned off).

Any thoughts???
 
  #5  
Old 10-21-05, 07:13 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,528
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Possibly part #16 ion this page. Part # 17 is the capacitor that the relay adds to the starting circuit to help the compressor start.test the relay first. The capacitor is dangerous. Don't touch it for now.

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...erator&Mark=11

I assume the compressor is not running because it can't start. The part is the starting relay.First make sure you have 120 volts at the outlet and at the compressor.

See if this page help you to test it.

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appli...essorrelay.php

AGAIN WITH THE SCROLLING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Last edited by joneq; 10-22-05 at 08:19 AM.
  #6  
Old 10-22-05, 08:47 AM
aries
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I am a little confused/concerned about which item that I am looking at is the relay switch and which is the capacitor (since based on the diagram they are both square boxes).

Is the relay switch the white box (approx 1" x 1.5") that is attached to the side of the compressor (which I'm assuming is the large, black barrel - yes, this is the first time I have seen the inside of this appliance )? I removed the white, plastic plate from the side of the part (terminal box?) I believe houses the relay switch. Based on the links you provided, it seems as though I should just be able to slide the relay switch out, but the inside of my terminal box doesn't look like the picture on the link (mine seems much more "modern/sleek.") There are four colored wires that run into the part I am looking at. Two of the wires then proceed to run to the fan. Based on this description, is the part in question, in fact, the relay switch? If so, do I need to apply more pressure in order for it to come off of the side of the compressor?
 
  #7  
Old 10-22-05, 09:31 AM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,528
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
capacitors should only have 2 wires. The relay is in a case.The capacitor looks like it is held in place by 1 screw it would not have wires going to the fan. Stay away from it. Unplugging the ref does not mean it is safe. Do a google search for discharging a capacitor.


You have a solid state[no moving parts] relay you need to remove it and have it tested. If you can't have it tested leave the ref unplugged so it doesn't try to start.

Maybe someone else can help you get it out. It may snap in.
 
  #8  
Old 10-22-05, 10:20 AM
aries
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks joneq!

One last (I hope) question. I think I discovered the capacitor (which I know not to touch!). Would the capacitor have 2 wires running from it to the relay?

I think this is beyond my abilities, so I will call in the professional, but I am glad now that I will not sound so "stupid" when I call. Thank you so much for your help!!!
 
  #9  
Old 10-22-05, 10:51 AM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,528
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes. The relay adds the capacitor to the circuit via. Don't be too hasty and make the call just yet. There may be someone here who can walk you through it better than me. This is pretty simple to do. I am not nuts about the price of that relay either,but it is more than just a relay.
 
  #10  
Old 10-22-05, 02:18 PM
aries
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
OK, I'll wait a bit before I make the call and someone else may come along who can help me further. I'm not in a huge hurry. Although this is my primary refrigerator, I have another in the garage. Thanks, again!

(I have to admit, I would be awefully proud of myself if I could fix this on my own )
 
  #11  
Old 10-22-05, 03:53 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,528
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Right ----and a lot richer to boot. Check your private messages.
 
  #12  
Old 10-22-05, 04:29 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 718
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Whirlpool Ref.

It used to be that you could carry a universal relay in your tool box & plug it on most compressor to determine that was the problem. Not that way anymore. Things are getting way too complicated & expensive. The relay for your compressor is part # 2261636. It retails for $43.62 at APWagner.com.
It does plug onto the side of the compressor. Hopefully that takes care of your problem. However, there is that chance the compressor is bad. Or, the capacitor is the problem. Part # 4387764 -$72.97. The capacitor is the part held on by a screw. I would take the chance of replacing the relay. ( It is listed as the "Start-device combination" ). If it still won't start the compressor it would be up to you to take the chance on buying that expensive capacitor. Maybe at that point it might be worthwhile to call the repairman & let him determine if its the capacitor or compressor. If you bought the fridge in 2001 the compressor should still be under warranty. 5 years on the compressor & sealed system. I believe labor is not included though. Too bad everything is made so cheap nowadays. I have an old GE ref. we bought used 26 years ago. Still keeps my beer cold. Dave
 
  #13  
Old 10-26-05, 05:44 PM
Repairnut
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thumbs up Same problem - No Fridge OR Freezer

Our Whirlpool side-by-side Fridge and freezer just stopped working too. Lights & water dispenser still worked. It turned out to be the "defrost chip" on the circuit board. Found this after taking the control panel off. Didn't have to replace the chip (About an $80 part). It was just loose so we re-soldered it. Both are doing their job now! Good Luck
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: