Help!!! Squeaky Dryer

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Old 11-22-05, 08:57 AM
mom2tadj
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Help!!! Squeaky Dryer

I have a Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Model 86701 each time I turn it on it squeaks real bad but after about 3-5 minutes (after it's warm) it's gone, no more squeaking, is there a way to make it stop squeaky every time I turn it on?
 
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Old 11-22-05, 05:23 PM
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Noise Problems

Hello mom2tadj and Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site and the Electric Appliances Forum Topic.

In most cases, it's the drum support rollers. Dryers also have slider/glider support pads, or rollers for the front of the drum. Also check <if your model is equipped with> a center rear drum support bearing. This may also be a part causing the noise. Any one of the parts or combination of parts mentioned above, may be a direct cause of a noise related problem.

Slide or glide pads are located on the inside of the front door panel. They are located on the housing that attaches to the inside front doors panel which supports the front of the drum. The top inside part of the drum rides on two and sometimes 3 of these pads or glides. Replacement of these parts should be easy on most models.

Belts may also cause squealing/slipping sounds or noises. If this happens to be the case, about the only option will be to replace it. Be aware, some belts have two different sides. One side must face up on the drum.

Regarding the belts positioning over, under and/or around the pulleys, my best suggestion is to make a hand drawing of the locations and positions prior to removing the old belt.

Refer to the drawing when installing the new replacement belt to be positive it is correctly positioned on the drum and routed on the pulleys. Then store that drawing within the dryers upper rear removable panel for future use.

You should also check behind the upper rear removable panel for an instructional booklet, leaflet or diagram. It's also possible the instructional information/diagram may be found taped to any other removable panel or location within the appliance cabinet.

To access the parts that needed to be inspected/removed or replaced, in many cases, for free standing and singular appliances, the back and front panels will need to be removed. Top panels will needed to be lifted up or slid rear wards. For many washer/dryer top and bottom attached combo units, access may only be needed or provided through the front panels.

Many instructions, several pictures, lots of discussions, tips and suggestions on this subject can be found within the archives of this forum. Also, check the gas appliance forum, on the same appliance subject, regardless of which energy source is used.

While your attempting this do-it-yourself project, a few words of caution and suggestions may be in order. Special precaution for electric dryers! Be absolutely positive the current is turned OFF! Or the plug is removed from the outlet! These appliances use 220/240 volts! Failure to do so may prove to be a SHOCKING experience at the least---serious injury and even DEATH from electrocution, in some cases, is possible!

Electrocution is always possible while your hands are inside the cabinet poking around, testing or casually fingering the internal parts while the current is ON.

When service instructions/books/booklets or other repair guides are not available, always make hand drawings, on paper, of parts locations and connections that will be needed for reassembly, prior to any part removals. Make a pencil mark on the drum, if need be, to locate the exact position the belt is in on the drum prior to removal.

Contact or visit the local retail appliance parts store with make, model and serial numbers in hand and be sure they currently have, in stock, the parts needed, prior to starting the repairs.

Failure to adhere to this suggestion, may just leave you with a prior working appliance, which is now currently disassembled and inoperative, while you await the arrival of out of stock or back ordered parts.

It's always recommended that you clean out the exhaust vent tubing, regardless of whether it is plastic or metal tubing. Check the exhaust vents outside hood. It should not be damaged and the enclosed flapper trap door should be freely moveable.

Upon inspection of the plastic vent tubing, it may be a worth while idea to replace it, at this time, if it appears old, cracked, dry, yellowed or brittle.

Always remove all dust and/or lint from within the cabinet. An ordinary household vacuum with a flexible suction hose and oval or round bush attachment oftens works fine. As will a shop vacuum or a moistened or dampened old rag or shop cloth.

Read the help information topic note pertaining to the appliance at the top of this forum for additional help.

Additional Help and Suggestions:
Read some of the existing posts in this forum. In them will have additional ideas and or suggestions, along with repairs procedures, etc.

Read the manufacturers online web site for additional product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals, which may be available online.

Search the manufacturers web site for a downloadable version of the owners or service manual. The file will be a pdf file opened with Adobe, which also needs to be downloaded first but worth having once obtained.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance part stores and parts dealers are listed in the phone book.

Check back on your question several more times. Other members and moderators posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice, suggestions and or repair methods.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list of current questions automatically.

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