Maytag washer tub leaking


  #1  
Old 11-28-05, 10:41 PM
kindyes
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Maytag washer tub leaking

I have a fairly new Maytag clothes washer, heavy-duty commercial, model #SAV365ZAWW.

A couple of days ago it developed a slow drip leak that only occurs when the tub is full; it produces a puddle underneath the washer and I can't tell where exactly it's coming from, but it's not exterior in either the water supply or the exterior part of the drain line.

I highly suspect that it has to do with freezing. The night previous to the day that we noticed the leak was a very VERY cold night. Our washroom is in an unheated and uninsulated part of the house, practically outside. I have a small electric heater that I place near the water lines in such conditions, plus I leave a faucet dripping. We didn't have any water lines burst on the night in question.

We bought the machine brand-new less than 2 years ago, so I definitely don't want to just replace it. I think it may even still be under warranty, but I hate calling a repairman, and waiting on him, if it's something I can fix myself (especially since we live in the middle of nowhere). I'm a pretty hard-core do-it-yourselfer.

The main thing I need to know is how to open the thing up to take a look underneath. My guess is, it's a burst in the part of the drain line where it connects to the tub, which probably had a little bit of standing water in it that froze.

Also, if I find the drain line intact, what are the other possibilities? And, how do I prevent this in the future? Is there any good way to completely empty the drain line?

Any information is appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 11-29-05, 05:34 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 757
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Maytag washer

Unless they changed the design lately there should be 2 screws on the front panel towards the bottom that you remove & pull the bottom out & up to remove. If not, there might be a clip on each side at the top lip that you push in with a small screwdriver to remove the front. My guess would be the water in your pump froze & cracked the pump. Or maybe the inlet water valve froze & cracked. Only way to tell is have front off & watch machine as it fills & agitates. No practical way to get all the water out of machine for cold weather. You need to get more heat in that room. Dave
 
  #3  
Old 11-29-05, 06:12 PM
kindyes
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks very much for your reply, Dave.

After looking at it and trying to remove the front panel, it appears that they may have actually changed the design from what you were referring to. Prying just a little at the seams and looking into the cracks, it looks like there are small posts or prongs attached to the top panel, which are inserted into holes in the top of the front panel. Making it necessary I suppose to open up the top panel first, in order to remove or open the front. How to open the top is not obvious to me. I'm digging around now for my owners manual, but my guess is that info won't be in ther anyway; I know they don't like for us to do this stuff ourselves!

Any ideas on how to get this sucker open?
 
  #4  
Old 11-29-05, 06:35 PM
E
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 198
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I recently ran into a similar post-top constructed washing machine. I found out that the front panel just snaps on! I pried it out and the front came off.
 
  #5  
Old 11-29-05, 07:22 PM
kindyes
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
OK I got 'er figured out... at least the disassembly part. Thought it would be a good idea to post it just for others' reference.

There are 2 front panels, a small lower one and the main one. The smaller one at the bottom has to come off first. There ARE actually 2 screws at the bottom, like you mentioned Dave... only they're not just "near the bottom", they're all the way down at the floor and very hard to see because they're tucked underneath the bottom of the panel, about an inch back. To see them and take them out, you have to lie on the floor with your head practically on the floor. Once those are out, the bottom front panel comes down and out, exposing the 2 screws that are holding the big main front panel in. Once those are out, you still have to reach into the seam at the top of the main front panel with a small screwdriver, to release the clips that hold it to the top panel. Then, you can pull out on the bottom of the front panel to clear the prongs from their holes in the side panels, then down and out with the front panel, voila!

I still haven't found my leak, but it should be fairly simple now that I can see the "innards" of the machine. Thanks Dave for the tip on getting into it from the front; at first I was trying from the back. I obviously have zero experience with washers... but a strong working knowledge of machines in general, especially automotive.
 
  #6  
Old 11-29-05, 08:16 PM
kindyes
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
OK. Now that I've watched it run, I have more information... and more questions.

It seems to be dripping only during the agitation cycles. The drip is from the rear center of the tub, near the agitator mechanism (or whatever you call that thing that's directly below the center of the tub and creates the agitation motion). I'm assuming there has to be some type of water-tight seal there, where the agitator post comes through the bottom of the tub. That's likely the problem. Can that be damaged by freezing, or did it just wear out? The machine seems a little young to be wearing out parts yet, although it does get VERY heavy use. Also, as I mentioned before, there is the fact that there were freezing temperatures in the washroom the night before the leak started. Coincidence?

And of course, the big question... where do I go from here? Call the Maytag guy? I'm confident that anything a local general appliance repairman could do, I can do. Anything short of requiring specifically a company-trained repairman.
 
  #7  
Old 11-30-05, 06:41 AM
D
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 757
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Maytag washer

Sorry about the mis-information about removing the front. Leave it up to an engineer to change things around. Used to be 2 screws near the bottom, pull & lift. Yes, there is a tub seal that appears to be bad on your machine. I guess its possible the frigid weather might have made it shrink a bit & leak, however I have seen quite a few leak from the same area after only a few years of use. I have tried changing the tub seal twice on 2 washers with no success on either. It is a very time-consuming job as you have to take the whole tub assembly out to get at. What I had found on both washers was a groove from the old seal worn into the transmission shaft. So, after installing the new seal & putting it back together it leaked just as bad as the old one.
Anymore, I don't even attempt to replace. I usually tell the customer to use a med. setting & use the washer untill it leaks again & then replace it. Dave
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: