spin problem - Kenmore clothes washer 80 series

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  #41  
Old 05-23-10, 11:37 AM
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Saw you have been active in many threads - question for you. Washer tub (Kenmore combo washer/dryer) was off balance - permanently leaning towards to the back right. Opened the panel and it looks like the right rear suspension assembly is broken/compressed. Is there any sure way to tell that this is the problem before I replace all three? Appreciate the help.
 
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  #42  
Old 05-23-10, 06:22 PM
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Hotrod43

Thanks, for the advice on the lid paddle switch, that is my problem. Next ?, how do you get the lid up so that you can replace the switch, Thanks in advance for the help.

Warm Regards, Hotrod43
 
  #43  
Old 05-24-10, 04:15 AM
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model # please in general 2 screws in front corner of consul. pull consul forward and tilt back. unplug wire in top(lid switch) remove 2 gold looking clamps . Cabinet lifts off, replace switch and reinstall. Keep us posted
 
  #44  
Old 05-24-10, 04:16 AM
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one with bad legs need model #
 
  #45  
Old 05-27-10, 06:59 AM
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pugs

Thanks for your help,

hotrod43

Have a good day & a better week.
 
  #46  
Old 05-29-10, 11:50 AM
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Kenmore Washer 80 Series Repair. Please help

Please help.
My Washer, when it is on the circle for rinse it pauses, but it will not move any further. Like its stuck. I have to play so it will at least spin.
 
  #47  
Old 05-29-10, 12:33 PM
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Check your lid switch, read earlier posts and thry will tell you how.
 
  #48  
Old 05-31-10, 08:23 AM
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kenmore series 70 won't spin

I have read through the forum and have tried to diagnose the problem. Here is what I know: the washer will agitate and pump but won't spin. I can see the clutch spinning during the spin cycle. After removing the basket the drive shaft will also spin, but when I put the basket back on it might try for a moment but won't spin the basket. Clutch problem? Drive assembly? What do you suggest I try replacing? Thanks.
 
  #49  
Old 05-31-10, 02:33 PM
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Is there a streak of oil about 6 inched from floor on the inside of cabinet? If there you need a clutch and top seal in gearcase
 
  #50  
Old 05-31-10, 06:33 PM
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Thanks for your response. No, I see no evidence of leaking oil.

I went ahead and replaced the clutch today because I want to get this working, but I'm afraid that didn't help. Still in the same spot. I thought the clutch must be the problem since it seems like something is slipping. I perhaps did something crazy and actually held the drive block with a pliers while activating the spin, just to see how easy it is to stop the drive from spinning: wasn't hard. If I can hold it that easily clearly a load of wet clothes isn't going to spin.

How can I look at the spin drive shaft? Is it possible it is worn and that is what is slipping? I would suspect the drive block, bt it seems like in that case the inner shaft would spin while the block remains still, but the whole shaft is not spinning when any pressure is applied.

Thanks again for your help.
 
  #51  
Old 06-01-10, 03:31 AM
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Drive couplers are cheap, new ones have a medal insert to stop your problem, Usually you would hear a noise from there unless plastic tabs are broken off.
 
  #52  
Old 06-01-10, 05:59 AM
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Wait - By the couple you mean the part (three pieces) between the motor and transmission? It would be great if that solved te problem, but when the basket isn't spinning the clutch is spinning, so I don't see how that coupler could be the problem. If I am misunderstanding which part you mean, could you describe it for me, please?

Thanks.
 
  #53  
Old 06-01-10, 03:43 PM
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Let me change my mind, if you will. Taking things apart again, now I think I do see some evidence of an oil leak about six inches above the floor as you suggested. I was thinking you meant on the floor, but I see you said on the inside of the cabinet. There is a line of oil around the cabinet and on the inside of the of the chassis (if I can call it that).

So I have a new clutch on but not the top seal on the gearcase. Is it really possible that a bad seal (and loss of oil) would keep the basket from spinning? Would it increase resistence to that extent?

If that might solve the problem, would you please help me find the seal I need? What oil should be used to replace what has leaked (or is that necessary?)?

Thanks.
 
  #54  
Old 06-02-10, 03:56 PM
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Give model # and can tell what seal to get. Have you installed new clutch yet? If not the oil in clutch will stop basket.
 
  #55  
Old 06-02-10, 04:56 PM
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It's model #110 26722690

Yes, I changed the clutch but it was still slipping. That shouldn't have oil in it already, should it?

Thanks.
 
  #56  
Old 06-03-10, 02:55 AM
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Here is a breakdown of your gearcase.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...0042729&blt=06
# 3is the seal, should be able to get from local appliance parts store. Have you taken the basket out to see if anything under it?
 
  #57  
Old 06-03-10, 01:13 PM
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Yes, I have removed the basket, which is how I have seen that without the basket the spin tube/drive spins, but when the weight of the basket is added it doesn't spin (sometimes moves for a second then stops). So the problem seems to be something slipping.

When I took the basket out I cleaned all the gunk and lint out of the tub - there was plenty. But that didn't result in the basket being able to spin.

The drive block isn't very tight on the spin tube (I am not sure what a bad drive block would be like), but again this doesn't seem to be the problem, since when the basket is off everything spins but when it is on nothing spins (not the tube or the block).

The oil in the clutch seems like it explains the problem best, but I am still concerned that after I replaced the clutch it still didn't spin. Even if oil leaked into the clutch right away it should have been able to spin at least at first, since the old clutch has presumably been spinning with oil in it for a while before finally slipping too much.

So I will replace the seal, but I am not too optimistic that anything will be different...
 
  #58  
Old 06-03-10, 02:52 PM
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Everything points to the clutch.When youi put in seal make sure the gears in case look ok. If drive block is loose I would replace it also. The new one's I have got are a tight fit that I have had to tap down over the lugs.
 
  #59  
Old 06-05-10, 07:36 PM
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It's working! I was so happy to see that basket start spinning...

I changed the seal and then decided to change the block. I didn't know til I got the new one next to it how messed up it was: the top rim where the spin tube lugs should fit into the notches was all gone. So after I tapped that into place and put the basket it on it worked.

Thank you so much for all your help and suggestions - my family, who has been hiking laundry to the neighbor's house, thanks you as well.
 
  #60  
Old 06-13-10, 06:19 PM
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my kenmore 80s sounds like its going to blow up

im sorry i dont know hoe to use this site that well ,but my kenmore 80s washer when spinning it sounds like its going to take off. the 3 pins fell out and i replaced them but its still doing the same thing!!!! what could it be??
 
  #61  
Old 06-14-10, 07:55 AM
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3 gold pins are shipping pins and are supposed to be out. Throw them away. Dose it spin or just make noise?
 
  #62  
Old 06-17-10, 03:52 PM
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Transmission?

Ok, so I used to work for Sears but I left there in 1990, so I've forgotten a lot. I just changed the motor coupling in a series 80. Put everything back together and ran through functions. ( water levels, hot warm cold, timer, etc.) It seems to me you had to let the transmission agitate a certain number of times before advancing to pump out. I also remember if it tried to spin during pumpout there was a problem with the tranny. Long story short, i let the machine run through the cycles on its own and it still wanted to spin and pump at the same time. Any comments?
 
  #63  
Old 06-18-10, 04:59 AM
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Most gearcases are 2 step. first is pump out than a pause than spin. Have never had problem if both work at same time.
 
  #64  
Old 06-20-10, 07:58 PM
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Washer won't spin - Kenmore 80

I have read most of the posts trying to figure out why why tub will not spin.....I have just checked to coupling and it appears fine. I also looked to see if the clutch was spinning while I put in on spin cycle and it does. There is no oil leakage. What else can be the problem? When I try to turn the tub by hand it has some resistance then it loosens up and the resists again. Everything else seems to run fine so I think The problem must be between the gearbox and i guess a shaft in the tub. I have looked at the schematics on sears.com to get an idea but cant get far. Could someone pleeze help me out!
 
  #65  
Old 06-20-10, 09:20 PM
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without looking through all posts did you check to make sure the tub brakes are not sticking.
 
  #66  
Old 06-21-10, 03:41 AM
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disconnect motor and make sure all the plastic lugs are there and not broken off or the plastic piece is not cracked, You do not need to take hoses off pump just fold out of way.
 
  #67  
Old 06-21-10, 05:48 AM
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Washer won't spin - Kenmore 80 cont.

I dont think the brakes are sticking on it bc i tried to help it along when in the spin cycle and got nothing. There is no torque being delivered to the tub at all. As for the plastic peices (the couplings with the legs) were all intact. It has to be something after the couplings. I just know that when i put it on to spin cycle the brass looking cylinder under the tub and above the gearbox (i guess thats the clutch) spins with no problem. I was about to take some things apart in that area but I figure I'll get some more advice before going in there
 
  #68  
Old 06-21-10, 03:09 PM
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Take agitator out and look at top of block ( round piece with shaft coming out. There should be 2 tabs in block. That is drive block and I have seen them worn out where the shaft is all the way through block. Not a common problem. If not that I would guess gearcase. Most common problem is oil in clutch ( round silver thing above gearcase.)
 
  #69  
Old 07-01-10, 11:03 AM
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Kenmore 80 series

Ok so my Kenmore 80 series stopped working 2 days ago. I was washing a small load so it was not overloaded. I went to check on it and it was making a loud noise. I forgot to check so I'm not sure if it started during the washing stage or the rinsing. My husband thinks that it sounds like a grinding noise. Inside the tub it will not spin, rinse, or add water. Well it does try very slowly and weakly to spin but it's so little that it's almost not doing anything. My husband took off the back and looked inside and nothing is spinning or moving at all. Any ideas what it might be? Thanks
 
  #70  
Old 07-01-10, 03:21 PM
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Please post model # will make us able to see what washer you have
 
  #71  
Old 07-01-10, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsl View Post
Please post model # will make us able to see what washer you have
The model # is 11020802990
 
  #72  
Old 07-02-10, 04:24 AM
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Please tell me he did not remove the back of washer, Wrong, thing to do. most likely the drive coupler is bad, Washer filled and drained, no agitation or spin but made buzzing noise in spin?
Here is a link to what I think your problem is
Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement
The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job.
 
  #73  
Old 07-02-10, 06:42 AM
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The washer filled(but wasn't making the sound at that time) but did not drain. I heard the noise seen that it wasn't spinning or agitating and turned it off. We tried it on different cycles and it won't do anything, not even fill up with water. We've never had to fix a washing machine so yea we didn't know that you arn't supposed to take off the back. Its not off completely, just to where he can see inside, I hope that didn't cause any damage? Oh and the noise isn't just on spin, it's there when it's trying to agitate too. Which it agitates so weakly and slowly that it almost isn't doing it.
 
  #74  
Old 07-03-10, 01:45 AM
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sounds like you need a gearcase, here is a link
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=partSearch
Should be able to get part(s) cheaper someplace else.
 
  #75  
Old 07-04-10, 01:14 PM
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Happy 4th...but not for me!

Ok...I've read the replies on the series 80. (Mine is a 110.20892 990). My situation is it agitates fine, fills fine..won't drain and spin. No noises, no clicks, no hums. I took the cover off, pulled the motor...the coupler is fine. I pulled the hoses off the pump...nothing inside. I blew out the fill level switch. The timer just doesn't keep turning when it comes to the spin part....when you manually turn it to spin...nothing. I thought I heard thousands of tiny people laughing at me at one point...but that was just my imagination. Everybody is going to have to wear dirty clothes for fireworks tonight.

So, what am I missing? Besides my dignity.....Thank You!!!
 
  #76  
Old 07-04-10, 01:52 PM
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Check lid switch, Put hand under switch with washer in spin and on, pull switch body up and push down on lever through slot.
 
  #77  
Old 07-06-10, 12:16 PM
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same problem, no spin

I have loved this Kenmore Series 80 for 28 years. Mine has the same problem it no longer spins. What makes me hesitant to try to fix is when I run it, it has a strong electrical burn smell. Is this serious or do I need to proceed with checking the coupler?
 
  #78  
Old 07-06-10, 05:01 PM
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28 year old machine is probably a belt drive and would not put any money in it. easy way to find out is look behind washer and if there is a removable panel back there it is a old belt drive. give model # and can tell for sure
 
  #79  
Old 07-07-10, 03:51 AM
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spin problem

It is a removable panel on the back. A metal plate inside the top lid has these numbers
82380800
23808 10 60 120 C44162821.
I think this is model and serial number I don't know what else the metal plate would be. I can see the removable panel and it just has a sticker with electrical info on it. No other model number plates like I see today. Thank you for the info, if I have to replace the machine, I am confident that I got my money's worth out of it. And the next one will be a Kenmore.
 
  #80  
Old 07-07-10, 02:51 PM
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Yes you have a belt drive. have not tried to repair one of those in last 5 or so years. When I did try I always run into other problems, usually the tub rusted out and leaked.Tub no longer available.
 
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