Kenmore side by side refrigerator not staying cool.

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-18-06, 04:02 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 26
Kenmore side by side refrigerator not staying cool.

I am in need of some advice for my kenmore side by side refrigerator. I just noticed the other day that the fridge portion of the refrigerator was not cold but freezer section was. Turning the unit off and letting the thing defrost to see if there was some ice buildup. This has not seemd to help out at all. The model off of sears website was 55203. I have only had it for 18 months and this is crap! I can't belive that this is happening. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 09-18-06, 07:31 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: southwest wisconsin
Posts: 46
If it was froze up you need to empty it and leave it sit with the freezer door open for at least 4 hours to get all the frost out. any less than that or with the door closed will not get it cleared out. If it is really plugged up you may even need more time. The other option is to take the panel off and melt it with a hair dryer or hot water.
 
  #3  
Old 09-22-06, 03:40 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 26
Whirlpool problems still!!

okay well I am going to be needing a little more help here. I found out that the reason my fridge was not cooling was because of ice buildup of frost on the defrost heater. I took everything out of the fridge and let the fridge manually defrost for about 8 hours. I placed everyting back in the fridge and it seemed to be working. It has been a few days now and ice is building back up on the defrost heater. The service technician came by to take a look at the refrigerator but was of not much use. He basically told me that it was either going to be a $22 part called the bi-metal or it was going to be the computer module which cost over $300. He placed the computer in diagnostic mode by holding both the on/off button with the filter status reset(i have a digital readout) and placed it through diagnostic modes 1-6. Everything tested just fine. Once he got to step 6, testinig the defrost heater/bi-metal, the element heats up just fine and removes the frost off the heater. Now I noticed that during this test though that the bi-metal is by passed so it really is not testing that component. So that is still a possibility. So, now for my last question. After the technician left, I went back through the diagnostic mode for the computer. I noticed in the instructions that for the first two steps testing the FC thermister and the RC thermister, which are testing the computer, you are supposed to get a 0 or 2 reading on the water filter status. 0 meaning that the component test passes, and 2 meaning that it fails. Well for some reason I am getting a 1! Does anyone have any thoughts on that? I also have the actual model number. It is 106-55203400. It is made by whirlpool with a Kenmore badge on it. If ANYONE can help me out with this I would greatly appreciate it.
 
  #4  
Old 09-26-06, 05:37 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 26
no one can help here?! I defrosted the freezer section again. It has been a week now and things are frosting back up! Not too sure where to begin with this. Does anyone know of a website that has parts placement on the fridge? Thanks!
 
  #5  
Old 09-26-06, 06:52 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 757
Kenmore

Sears will have the parts you need. I would start with the defrost thermostat. Go to their website & type in your model #.
That will be the cheapest part to try first. I think you'll find that the board will be alot cheaper than the tech. quoted you if you find you need that part. Dave
 
  #6  
Old 09-27-06, 12:45 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 26
Originally Posted by dave6466
Sears will have the parts you need. I would start with the defrost thermostat. Go to their website & type in your model #.
That will be the cheapest part to try first. I think you'll find that the board will be alot cheaper than the tech. quoted you if you find you need that part. Dave

are you talking about the bi-metal? Yeah, I found the parts placement on the internet, right off of kemore's website. go figure. haha
 
  #7  
Old 09-27-06, 01:50 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 757
Kenmore

Yes. It is a bi-metal defrost thermostat.
 
  #8  
Old 09-27-06, 04:20 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 26
does anyone know if, when placing the computer into the diagnostic routine, if it is by passing the bi-metal? I'm looking at the schematic and there are 2 wires(both brown) that are coming off from the computer. One is coming from pin 2 and the other off of pin 5 which goes directly to the bi-metal. The wire off of pin 2 is going directly to the defrost heater which is totally by passing the bi-metal. So again, does the diagnostic mode use pin 2 or pin 5 to apply power to the defrost heater?
 
  #9  
Old 09-27-06, 06:17 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 757
Kenmore

If one wire from circuit board is going to bi-metal thermostat & other wire from board is going to one end of heater the board is not bypassing the thermostat. The other side of thermostat wire is going to the other end of heater to complete the circuit.
Think of the bi-metal thermostat as a light switch in your house.
When it is closed (on) at its preset cold temp. it completes the circuit & allows the heater to come on. When it is open (off) as the freezer warms up it breaks the circuit, turning the heater off. If you know for sure the heater is ok & don't want to shell out the big bucks for a board if not sure thats the problem, the only other part left is the bi-metal thermostat. Least expensive part to try anyhow. Dave
 
  #10  
Old 09-28-06, 01:31 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 26
sorry I need to clarify my last message. The two wires that are in question(one from the pcb and one from the right hand side of the bi-metal) both come together before entering the left side of the defrost element. That wire is brown. If you look at the right hand side of the defrost element it is tied into the white wire that goes directly to the plug outlet. This weekend I am going to take the freezer apart and see if I can't see what's goign on. What I am going to do is find the bi-metal and read the wires with a multimeter. If the bi-metal is warmer than 50 degrees then it should read as an open, if it is colder then it should give me a direct short. Now once I check this I can see about the computer if need be. If I manually place the computer in diagnostic mode will that automatically bi-pass the bi-metal and apply voltage to the defrost element, or will it be applying power to both items? I understand the wiring schematic right now, but I am just not sure what signals the pcb need to be putting out in order to be working correctly. Thanks for the help!
 
  #11  
Old 09-28-06, 02:21 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central PA
Posts: 757
Kenmore

Sounds like your multimeter test is the best way to go. At least you can find for sure if bi-metal thermo is bad or not. I'm not sure about the board by-passing the thermostat in test mode.
Let us know how you make out. Dave
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes