Water and ice dispenser both not working


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Old 10-28-06, 07:36 AM
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Water and ice dispenser both not working

hotpoint side-by-side refrigerator with water and ice dispenser in door. settings for both cubed and crushed ice. a couple of days ago, it quit working entirely. the switch clicks when depressed, but no water and no ice. question: would the ice dispenser fail also if the water valve solenoid on the back is bad? guy at appliance store suggested switching the wires going to the dual valve temporarily since it's unlikely that both solenoids would fail at the same time. no change.

a related question: i wrote down which wires went to which solenoid on a scrap of paper, then my wife used it as a shopping list and threw it out. how can i figure out which is the correct way to hook it up? owner's manual is no help.

thanks.
 
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Old 10-28-06, 07:54 AM
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scratch that last question... i went through the trash - that was fun - and found the scrap of paper.
 
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Old 10-28-06, 05:45 PM
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Hotpoint

Highly unlikely both valves failed at same time. Not sure on your fridge but on some, if freezer door switch is not working, dispenser won't work. Does the freezer light go off & on when door is opened & closed? If you have a voltmeter, check that water valve is getting 120 volts when dispenser is pushed in. If no voltage, I would suspect the micro-switch that you hear clicking when you push in with a glass. Even though it clicks, the contacts could still be bad in it. Dave
 
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Old 10-29-06, 10:01 AM
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re

thanks for the response. seems likely to be the switch: i get no voltage reading at the solenoid when depressing the switch. next question: i know you can't really answer this without seeing the unit, but would it be fair to say that most likely i'd have to take apart the door from inside to get at that switch? it has a little rubber cover that i peeled off to reveal the outside of the switch, but i can't see any way to get at it from the front.

thanks again.
 
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Old 10-29-06, 12:53 PM
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Dispenser

No. You get at it from the front. Most are a pain to figure out.
Try gently prying around the trim untill you get a spot started, then gently pry all the way around. Take out the drain pan & look for screws there. If you find screws, take them out & try lifting up on the whole assembly. Kinda hard to tell on your model without actually seeing it.
 
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Old 10-29-06, 06:21 PM
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the good news: i managed to get the whole assembly out, and the switch is accessible. the bad news: the switch tests just fine (a zero reading with a digital VOM when depressed, no reading when not depressed - that means it's good, right?) i also tried to jump past the switch and nothing happened.

(edited monday AM) after more poking around, i feel like i'm making some progress. at least at this point i think i understand the logic of the circuit... the switch assembly is a unit that has two sets of wire terminals, the switch that activates the water or ice, and the three position switch that chooses water, cubed, or crushed ice. on the left side of the panel, there is a six-wire plug-in contact. two of those wires test positive for voltage, somewhere in the neighborhood of 120, while the other four do not. on the right side, there are two wires leading to the switch. it seems to me that since the panel is getting the voltage in, then the two contacts leading to the switch should test positive for 120V as well, right? i get nothing there at all. i tried probing the contacts directly, and i also tried plugging in the wire leads that go to the switch, then probing those leads on the other end of that wire (after pulling them from the switch connectors). nothing in either case.

it seems to me that this indicates the problem is in that panel somewhere. i'd hate to buy an entirely new panel then find out that wasn't really the problem... any thoughts on how i can further test out that panel? what if i check continuity from the terminals that the voltage goes into on the left to the terminals that lead into the switch on the right? what reading would i get if it's okay, and if it's fried?

i really appreciate all the help. i'm trying to learn...
 

Last edited by docsobeck; 10-30-06 at 05:34 AM.
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Old 10-30-06, 07:21 AM
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Dispenser

Sounds like the selector switch if dispensor switch checks ok.
Get me your model # so I can look up your fridge & see the parts diagram. I can get a better idea how the componets work together that way.
 
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Old 10-30-06, 01:34 PM
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wow, that's tremendously nice of you!

it's a hotpoint model csh22gr. at least that's what the sticker inside the door says...
 
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Old 10-30-06, 02:29 PM
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Hotpoint

I went by your partial model #. To get you the exact part # I need the complete model located on the wall of the fresh food section on a plate or sticker. It almost has to be the control panel bad. If you have voltage to it but none coming out & dispenser switch checks ok, I see nothing else there except the solenoid that opens freezer door flap to let ice out.
 
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Old 10-30-06, 04:04 PM
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AHA! now i know for sure what it is. i took out two screws and yanked the circuit board out of the assembly, and WHOOMP, there it is: a big scorch mark on the back of the board right behind where the voltage comes into the board. i couldn't have gotten this far without your help - that's for damn sure. one last question: what are my chances of getting a replacement for the circuit board? or might i have to replace the whole assembly?

the part number on the circuit board is 84D10042A01, made by eaton corp.
 
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Old 10-30-06, 05:26 PM
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Hotpoint

Board can be replaced. # on board doesn't do me any good. Get me the complete model # from tag on wall in fresh food section.
I can then get you the part # from GE that you need to order new board. Dave
 
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Old 10-30-06, 06:25 PM
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there is a sticker inside the door that has the number i already posted, and down at the bottom of the sticker it also has 162D1873P041, but i don't think that's relevant. also, there's an energy sticker inside with the same number with one extra letter: CSH22GRT.

there's a sticker on the back that has a bit more: CSH22GRTA WW. and i noticed that sticker was peeling off a bit, and underneath there's another sticker with this model number: CF22W-CC. maybe that's the GE equivalent model number?
 
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Old 10-30-06, 06:38 PM
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Hotpoint

Sticker you found on back is complete model #. CSH22GRTAWW.
GE part # of board is- WR55x130. Do a search on internet to find best price. Dave
 
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Old 08-07-08, 12:19 PM
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GE icemaker PCB

Originally Posted by dave6466 View Post
Sticker you found on back is complete model #. CSH22GRTAWW.
GE part # of board is- WR55x130. Do a search on internet to find best price. Dave
Greetings Dave

You did a marvelous job helping Docsobeck in 9/03. Now I can use similar help. My icemaker is on a GE Model No. TFH24PRS refrigerator. The selector switch (3-position) is frozen in place. Since it is soldered to the PCB, I am assuming that I need the whole board. Therefore, need the GE part no. for the board, hoping it continues to be available.

Be well, and thanks
Fred
 
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Old 08-07-08, 03:19 PM
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GE Board

Hi Fred, Board part number from GE is- WR55x129. It retails for $46.75 from apwagner.com. It is also in stock. From pic on website it looks like it has a slide switch on both sides of board. Sound correct? Dave
 
 

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