Frigidaire electric range

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  #1  
Old 11-12-06, 01:18 PM
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Frigidaire electric range

This Frigidaire stainless steel range (model: CPES389AC1) is five years old (s/n:NF14705526) with a ceramic glass top.
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Problem: oven does not heat on bake, broil or clean cycle.

Heating and broiling element show no wearing.
Electric panel fuses are cartridge type - not burned.

Surface elements, convection fan and probably the convection element operate (as there is some heat in the oven on convection
mode).

The electric pad has all the functions working - there is no error code. On clean cycle door locks. Clock is OK.
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Temperature probe is 3" long, not hanging or showing any damage.

Appreciate any help or idea in this matter.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-12-06, 01:37 PM
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Sounds like bake element is bad. Only sure way to tell is to take back of stove off & check for 220 volts going to element. If voltage is there, element is bad & needs replaced. Dave
 
  #3  
Old 11-12-06, 02:59 PM
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Dave6466:
"Sounds like bake element is bad. Only sure way to tell is to take back of stove off & check for 220 volts going to element. If voltage is there, element is bad & needs replaced."

Thanks Dave,
Do you mean either of the two (broil or bake)?
Can't the element pulled out and check for resistance-instead of taking of the back panel?
Back to you..
 
  #4  
Old 11-12-06, 04:11 PM
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Bake element. Yes you can check bake element for resistance also.
 
  #5  
Old 11-13-06, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ovenfrank
This Frigidaire stainless steel range (model: CPES389AC1) is five years old (s/n:NF14705526) with a ceramic glass top.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Problem: oven does not heat on bake, broil or clean cycle.

Heating and broiling element show no wearing.
Electric panel fuses are cartridge type - not burned.

Surface elements, convection fan and probably the convection element operate (as there is some heat in the oven on convection
mode).

The electric pad has all the functions working - there is no error code. On clean cycle door locks. Clock is OK.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Temperature probe is 3" long, not hanging or showing any damage.

Appreciate any help or idea in this matter.
Try this, unplug the stove for a few minutes, 1 of 2 things could happen. You may reset the stove and all will be well. Or you could get the error codes up. Then you can go from there. Good luck! Ex-tech
 
  #6  
Old 11-13-06, 07:16 PM
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Try this, unplug the stove for a few minutes, 1 of 2 things could happen. You may reset the stove and all will be well. Or you could get the error codes up. Then you can go from there. Good luck! Ex-tech

Nope. Error code:PF (guess> power failure).
Otherwise oven is still in the same heatless condition.
But thanks. Any other idea appreciated.
 
  #7  
Old 11-16-06, 03:40 PM
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dave6466 Bake element. Yes you can check bake element for resistance also.
Hello Dave,
Finally got to it. Elements OK.
What to do next?
Thanks,
 
  #8  
Old 11-16-06, 08:34 PM
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I would suspect oven sensor next. On your stove I'm not sure what the resistance should be for that particular style. Hopefully someone else on here can answer that. If not, try an internet search under frigidaire oven sensor.
 
  #9  
Old 11-17-06, 11:24 AM
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dave6466: "I would suspect oven sensor next. On your stove I'm not sure what the resistance should be for that particular style. Hopefully someone else on here can answer that. If not, try an internet search under frigidaire oven sensor."

Thanks Dave. Ohm at ambient temp 1050-1100.

Hoped that the EOC is OK since there were no error code and- on a perfunctory exam all touch buttons worked ---- but looking at the Frigidaire's owner manual "how to set oven controls" and going through it step by step turns out that when trying to set bake or broil temperature, say to 350 and pushing the start button ------ it beeps two times instead of one and falls to 288-------.
 
  #10  
Old 11-17-06, 05:06 PM
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I tried looking up your model #. It came up but the last 3 digits don't match. There were 2 models that came up ending in DC4 &
DC5. Anyhow, just to give you an idea on price of EOC, you're looking at around $150.00. I wish I could give you an idea on how to test it before dropping that kind of money but with these electronics showing up on more & more appliances, I'm falling behind the times. Anyone else know how to test this board?
 
  #11  
Old 11-17-06, 07:43 PM
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dave6466 I tried looking up your model #. It came up but the last 3 digits don't match. There were 2 models that came up ending in DC4 &
DC5. Anyhow, just to give you an idea on price of EOC, you're looking at around $150.00. I wish I could give you an idea on how to test it before dropping that kind of money but with these electronics showing up on more & more appliances, I'm falling behind the times. Anyone else know how to test this board?

Thanks Dave,
Measured temperature probe resistance: if it supposed to b e 1100 Ohm at room temp. -the probe is right on.
My last note-forget it. Yeah, 288 Celsius. It drops back to this number because it is the maximum the range can handle. In Fahrenheit it can be adjusted to 350 F. Be happy or have a crying face?
So, elements are OK. There is no voltage in the back, continuity good. Probe's resistance OK.
The wiring diagram (from Frigidaire's web site-yes, Frigidaire but nobody else knows about CPES3898CA1 ) shows a thermal circuit breaker on the probe.

Is it of any consequence?

This is a Canadian made (SN: NF 14705526) range. Sears has a part number for the EOC. 22 970318183603N - it could be without the 22. Looking at the real part-it was made in Mexico for Spitfire Control Inc. Model 318183900. Probably this is the most expensive part of this range.

Hey Dave, I do really appreciate your answers.
 
  #12  
Old 11-18-06, 08:39 AM
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The EOC will most definately be the most expensive part. I would still try a few things before taking a chance on a new EOC. Take back off stove to get at element. Use your voltmeter to see if 220 is at bake element or not. Be carefull around live wires. Even though element showed resistance, at least you know it isn't a false reading. No voltage, the sensor will be your next least expensive part. I'm guessing $30-$40. They should keep the electronic parts in TV's & computers. Alot easier to diagnois a few years back. These parts are too sensitive to voltage spikes. Dave
 
  #13  
Old 11-19-06, 09:40 AM
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dave6466: "The EOC will most definetelly be the most expensive part. I would still try a few things before taking a chance on a new EOC. Take back off stove to get at element. Use your voltmeter to see if 220 is at bake element or not. Be careful around live wires. Even though element showed resistance, at least you know it isn't a false reading. No voltage, the sensor will be your next least expensive part. I'm guessing $30-$40. They should keep the electronic parts in TV's & computers. A lot easier to diagnosis a few years back. These parts are too sensitive to voltage spikes."

Removing back panel the following measurements are made:

Incoming wires Red-Black = 240V . Black -White = 120V. Red - White = 120V. (These results were expected as the top works perfectly)
There is no Voltage on the Red wire that enters the EOC. Black wire - Neutral = 120 V. Obviously Broiler and Bake element would not work.
The wire bundle from the back runs in the space between the top of the oven and under the top elements to the EOC in the front. The space is about 5" high.
Looking at the wiring diagram from Frigidaire - it is self-explanatory why the fan, door switch, latch motor, bottom warmer and convection elements (until I probably blew the diode-hey, I am a neophyte in appliance repair) works.

How to find the junction of the Red wire in that rathole?
 
  #14  
Old 01-01-07, 08:16 AM
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Frigidaire model cpes389ac1

I guess I,m a little late to help you . But I ran into the same problem yesterday New Year's Eve. I found the problem was a bad solder joint on the L2 line on the back of the curcuit board of the EOC . This problem is located behind the solid state relay next to the power connectors. The curcuit board can be gently pulled up on one side and soldered without having to totally disassemble the Oven Controller. This looks like a manufacturing defect. If you did replace the contoller I hope you didn't throw it out.
 
  #15  
Old 02-16-13, 05:30 PM
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Sorry for reviving an ancient thread, but it helped me and my additional info may help someone else.

I don't know how I ended up finding this thread, but the last post by frank1234567 REALLY helped me. I have a 9-year-old Kenmore range (590.95683301) and both oven elements stopped working but the range top still worked. The electronic controls for the oven still worked too with no error codes. The broil and bake elements tested fine, as did the temperature probe.

Thinking that I had a bad OEC, I started searching for the model number printed on the board itself (Spitfire Controls SF5306 Rev D, Kenmore #316207511) to see if someone had instructions on how to diagnose it. When I saw the post by frank1234567 I thought I'd give it a try.

I carefully separated the board from the housing without completely detaching it (about an inch of space available). The solder joint under the Omron G8P-1C4P relay looked different than all the other joints, so I heated the joint and added some solder. I was skeptical that this would work, but when I plugged everything back up, Hallelujah(!) the oven worked. Fixing the solder joint is way better than replacing the OEC!
 
  #16  
Old 02-22-13, 08:49 AM
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Unfortunately this is the most common problem on these control boards. The solder on the bake and broil relays was not heavy enough to carry the load from the elements and with time and use....crumbles and arcs and the connections open up.
 
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