Whirlpool Oven not Heat up after self-cleaning

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  #1  
Old 03-29-07, 10:42 AM
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Whirlpool Oven not Heat up after self-cleaning

I did a full 3.5 hr self cleaning on my 7 years old whirlpool oven range. There is no any problem during the cleaning. However, the first use after cleaning is not working. OVEN JUST NOT HEAT UP! Before the cleaning, everything is working! There is no any error message on the display. The model number is RF377PXG super capacity 465. Any help is appreciated! I can not do any baking now!

Ellen
 
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  #2  
Old 03-29-07, 03:05 PM
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I'm just grabbing at straws here. Do you have a way of programming 'manual' into the display? I'm not used to these digital units, but I know on the regular stoves of the not too distant past that if you alter the time clock setting, it won't let you bake until you get it back into manual.

You dont' have a user's manual for your unit, eh?
 
  #3  
Old 03-29-07, 04:02 PM
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Question

Sorry for not stating the problem precisely!

The real problem is that the oven does not heat up to the pre-set temperature. I set temperature to be 425 degree and start to bake after pre-heat is over. After a long time, it is only a little bit hot inside the oven. But I can tell the oven keeps switching to heat mode but the temperature does not go any higher inside the oven. I tried to increase/decrease the temperature, nothing changes! This happend after I did the self-cleaning. Before, everything works great.

I do keep the user's manual with me. But I could not find anything helpful to resolve the problem.

Desperately need help!!!!
 
  #4  
Old 03-29-07, 06:15 PM
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So on preheat you do indeed achieve 425 if you place an oven thermometer inside? But then when you switch to "bake", the temp goes down...perhaps off altogether?

How do you make selections on your stove?: By pushing on a digital display to say bake? If so, does it say "bake", the way it used to, and do an indicator light come on the way it used to?

Tell me all you can. Remember that I(we) are not in your house and can't see your unit, and only have to go on by what little you are saying. You have to be very explicit if anyone is to help you.
 
  #5  
Old 03-30-07, 09:53 AM
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Yes! There is a digital display on the oven range and all oven selections are through the button press. There are other four knobs used only for surface stove. The stove has no problem at all.

I will try to explain in more details. This is what I did:

(1) press "bake" button
(2) adjust the temperature to 425 degree by pressing up/down button
(3) press "start" button
(4) then preheat starts automatically. On the display, it will show preheat, 6 mints and time starts to count down.
(5) After preheat (in 6 mints), the bake process automatically starts.
(6) I did not see any problems after the first 5 steps except that the heat light is still on although the preheat is over.
(7) Normally, the temperature should be 425 degree in the oven and heat light should go off at this far. However, when I open the door, it is just a little bit hot and I am very sure this is not 425 degree (I did not measure using thermometer since it is so obvious).
(8) In the next half an hour or so, the heat light is always on and I can hear the little sound everytime the oven switch to heat process. Inside the oven, it is always only a little bit hot. Normally, the heat light will go on and off depending whether the oven is in heating or not.

I will try bake again tonight.

I hope I stated the problem more clearly this time. Thanks a lot for your patience.
 
  #6  
Old 03-30-07, 03:27 PM
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Your issue is you are not getting to 425, period. That could mean that you don't even have 220 going through your bake element. Without doing any meter testing, all you need to do for me is run the unit in preheat, bake or whatever and see if the element can glow red. If it doesn't you could have a break in your element and it is grounding out.

If it DOES (glow), but yet you never reach 425...then you could have a bad oven control (an oven control is both the switch and thermostat all in one. By you using the self clean cycle could have done either of these two in as the self clean cycle puts out more heat for longer and makes the element glow more and the oven control to have very hot current go through it for like 3 hours.

Let me know.
 
  #7  
Old 03-30-07, 07:12 PM
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You are expert!

Just like you said, the element does not glow red at all no matter it is preheat, bake or whatever. I tried again this afternoon, it was still the same. So the bake element is broken.

Can I fix it by myself or I need to find some contractor? Generally how much would cost me for this type of fix? I have no idea right now. The oven range is still pretty new and we did very good maintenance on it. The surface looks still like new. I really want to keep it. But If it is too expensive to fix it, I would consider buying a new one. Would you mind give me your thoughts?

Thanks a lot for your help!!
 
  #8  
Old 03-31-07, 03:36 PM
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Simple to test a bake element or range top burner element.

First, visually see if the element has molten gobs on the tubular-looking element, and/or is cracked. It will be obvious.

And if you do not see anything obvious, you should still test the element with a voltmeter. Many elements are set up so you can unscrew a screw where the element gets attached at the inside rear of the oven, and then pull the element into the stove a couple inches, enough to unhook the wires and then be able to put a voltmeter tester on each end of the element (set to the OHMS setting) to see if the element has continuity.

IF the element is good, then...

...You can also then make sure the wires are not contacting metal(BE SURE OF THIS),... and then plug the stove back in and test the wires to see if you have 220 volts. If not see, which of the two wires has 110. Then if you know which one does not have the 110, then you UNPLUG THE STOVE agian and then access the rear of the stove and trace that dead wire from the element plug-in back in the range. You will physically be able to trace that wire.

When working with 220 elements in anything...please realize that usually one leg wire of the 220 volts (in otherwords, 110 volts) is always 'hot' even though the switch to it is off!! Always remember that!

Oh. Most bake elements run $25-35 bucks...right in there. Appliance repair shops should have one for you. If not, they can order you one.
 
  #9  
Old 04-03-07, 09:39 PM
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I finally made the range work! Thanks so much for the advice! Here is what I did:

(1) Without unplug the range, I unscrew the screw where the bake element gets attached at the inside rear of the oven. I carefully pull the wire out and could not see any screws that hook the wires to the element. At that moment, I realize that there is still electricity on the wire. So I tried to put the wire back in and suddently I saw a spark and the oven went dead completely. I am scared to death at that moment!!
(2) After an hour or so, I realize there must be a short occurred and the circuit breaker is tripped. So I went to garage and did prove that. I switched the range breaker back to on without pull it back to off first. But range is still dead.
(3) In next two days, I have no idea what is going on until I found an online article saying you need to pull breaker back to off first and then put it to on in order to reset the breaker. So I immediately did that and the range back on power. But I still have the old problem to resolve - bake element not heat up.
(4) This time, I pull the whole range out and unplug it from the wall. Unhooked the bake element from the wire and measureed the resistant of the bake element (here the hook between the wire and the bake element is a very cheap design and very easy to be loose) . It turned out the bake element is good. I then put the range plug back and measure the wire and did not see 220 volts at all.
(5) I traced the wire to the main controller finally. There are two wires connecting to the bake element. Each one is traced to its own component on the controller (a circuit board actually) and I could not see anything wrong. But I did notice that the one of the wire is connected to a plastic adapter which plugged into the controller. So I unplugged the plug and only see some metal piece in the hole. Then I plugged it back and measure the voltage again from where those two wires are connected to the controller. This time, I saw 220 volts. To be sure, I measured again from the other two ends of the wire which hook to the bake element. This time, I got 220 volts again. Now I believe that the plastic plug is loose. It seems the design of the plug is not a very solid one. During the self-cleaning, the very high temperature might cause the problem.
(6) The rest is easy. I put everything back and everything works. I am afraid those connctions might loose again in the future. I do not understand why the whirlpool do not make it more stronger.

Lessons: Do not do self-cleaning; If whirlpool is not making a quality product, which one is making a good one? GE? I heard many complaints on GE. My range is only 7 years old and it looks pretty new plus we did not use for baking a lot. We already had problem. I always thought that Whirlpool is a good brand, now I have to think about it. Question is: Where to buy a quality one in the next purchase? Maytag or ....?

Daveboy, Thanks a lot for your help and I saved at least a couple hundred dollars.
 
  #10  
Old 01-18-08, 02:16 PM
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oven will not heat

I have the same problem. after doing a self cleaning. when i went to use the oven after a day or two,it will not heat up at all. no errors on the display.just no heat
oven is about 8 yrs? i cant find the manual.
model # RBS275PDB6
 
  #11  
Old 01-23-08, 09:00 AM
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re:

I should have added that it is a whirlpool, and that we unplugged it for a half hr,to see if it just needed reset,but no luck.
 
  #12  
Old 07-08-09, 02:05 PM
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I am having the same problem

I have a Kitchenaid GAS RANGE Mod. GST307GBS0 that is experiencing insuffucient heat issues after a self cleaning.

When I turn on the bake or broil functions, the oven starts to preheat.

1st, the ignitor turns hot and about 3 minutes later, the gas from the gas burner ignites and turns on. The problem is the flame from the gas burner is very weak and the heat very very slowly goes up but does not get to the set baking temperature.

At the same time, I smell a little bit of gas around the oven area.

Below is a picture of my oven and the flame.

My wife is pretty bumbed out for not being able to bake for the kids and I would appreciate your help in fixing this problem.

<img src="http://www.gomaika.com/oven1.jpg"><br>
<img src="http://www.gomaika.com/oven2.jpg"><
 
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