GE Washer not draining completely or ?

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Old 11-04-07, 09:09 PM
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Unhappy GE Washer not draining completely or ?

My just over one year old GE washer model # WHDRE526E1WW (now out of warrenty) is not draining completely and gets stuck in the cycle. In the spin only, it gets stuck on drain and in wash mode it agitates then gets stuck on rain.

I opened it up, checked the pump, checked the hoses and they are all clean. The pump humms and seems like it is trying to empty the water. There must be just a little bit of water at the bottom - I can hear it but don't see it. When I add a bucket of water - it drains fine - at least as far as I can see. Some times it starts to spin but stops within 10 seonds or so.

Last week I put it back together and it started working all of a sudden. we did several loads and then the clothes came out wet on the last load. I put it on spin only and it worked. But as for the next load it got stuck on agitate and it seems like it thinks the washer is not drained and won't go any further and keeps the pump runing. Please help!
Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 11-05-07, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tarzan11 View Post

In the spin only, it gets stuck on drain and in wash mode it agitates then gets stuck on rain.
So when it is in spin cycle, in reality it never left the preceding drain cycle most likely.

But then the last part of your sentence: When does it get stuck on (d)rain when it agitates?; does it complete the agitate cycle first? If not explain better.
 
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Old 11-05-07, 07:55 PM
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It finishes the agitate cycle and then it gets stuck in drain cycle. For example if I put it in light wash which is basically a fill cycle followed by an agitate of about 6 minutes then drain - it does NOT fill, it goes right to agitate. It agitates for the 6 minutes. Then it gets stuck in the drain cycle. I can hear the pump running and it gets stuck there.
Thanks.
 
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Old 11-05-07, 09:11 PM
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Hmmm.... I'm thinking that the water level control is stuck in the full position? What you think ecman51?
 
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Old 11-07-07, 11:17 AM
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There does appear to be a discoloring at the base of the air-tight clear tube where it connects to the square box on the tub. How would I fix that?
Thanks.
 
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Old 11-07-07, 05:27 PM
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But does it only do it on light wash and not on full wash? If it is the water level sensor it should do it on any fill setting.

Just disconnect the clear tube from the bottom or remove it from top and bottom (for this you have to also access the control panel to remove it from the sensor switch). Then clean out the tube. They can get filled with gook.

While in the control panel, then you can see if the switch opens up (electrically becomes disconnected as it should)with the pressure tube disconnected, and if not, the switch is plain stuck.
 
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Old 11-09-07, 08:09 PM
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Yes - it does this not matter what load size you pick, small, large, or super - it does not fill.

I was able to clean out the tube and make sure it was clear. It did not appear that is was plugged though.

Once I had the panel opened, I used a multi-meter to read the resistance between the two leads of the switch both with the tube on and off and it was 'open' both times.

Does that mean I need a new switch? Any recommendations on an on-line store and how to find the part number?

Thanks a lot for all the advice.
 
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Old 11-10-07, 12:50 PM
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A water level control usually has 3 terminals- common, full, empty. Take a another look at it. To be absolutely sure it's bad, substitute a 3 way light switch for the control. The 3-way light switch will have a common terminal that looks different from the other 2. Mark that terminal C for common. Flip the switch one way and indentify the 2 terminals that have continuty. Mark that terminal as E for empty. Flip the switch the other way, then find the 2 terminals that now have continuity and mark that F for full. Then mark the top of the switch [at the handle] for E and F. Locate the tech sheet in your machine to see which wire on the machine is which. Wire common from the water level control to common on the light switch, then wire empty to the E terminal on the switch, and full to F. Flip the switch to E and start the machine. Does it start to fill? Let it fill for a while rhen flip the switch to F. The machine should now agitate. When agitate finishes, let the timer advance to drain and drain out the water, then flip the switch to E again. The machine should then start to fill again. When it does, flip the switch to F and the machine should do the rinse cycle. Let drain again, then flip the switch to E again. The machine should spin. If this substitution works one of 3 things is wrong, either the water level control is bad, or the tubing is clogged/has water in it, or the inlet to the air dome is clogged. The air dome is the place where the tube connects to at the tub. I located a new water level control for your machine as part # WH12X10108, about $25. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 11-10-07, 04:24 PM
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It seems that since tarzan opened everything up already and had his hands on the tube and also on the terminals of the switch, that all he'd have to do is remove the tube at the bottom, do his continuity tests just as he did, only do 2 tests: 1st test being to test the continuity like he did between all terminals; and the 2nd test would be for him to stick the tube in his mouth and blow in the tube at the same time he does these tests. If his meter never changes, it has to be the switch absolutely. Either the problem inside the switch would be that the switch can still do the clicking action, but the contacts are shot - or - it can't even click inside anymore because it is jammed.
 
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