Jenn-Air Display Dim - J1, J2 Pinout Request - Want to troubleshoot

Oven working Fine, but Display very dim - can't read temp when turning on, but it does turn on and bake...

Very common failure, and most often it is the clock board/assy. However, there have been a few threads out there where the source of the problem was the Relay Board, or the wiring between. Saw where one person did fix it by reflowing the solder joints on the relay board connector.

I have plenty of experience in isolating electrical problems, and would like to get the pinout of the J1 and J2 connector for a WW30430W. I have the wiring diagram for the oven, but it does not have definition of the two cables. I believe J1 is a 4 wire, and J2 is an 8 wire.

J1 1-2 reads 13.4Vdc, and I've seen threads where it should be 9-12 Vdc as this provided the power for the display, or some sort of feedback to the relay board, not sure. I thought this is being regulated on the relay board, not sure. Hence I would like to get more information on J1 and J2.

I've also seen where there is a lower AC voltage on the J2, but I don't have the quanty of wires on the connector that the person had...

SO, any help would be appreciated, as I really don't like to buy a new board until I have confirmation. I've fixed plenty of boards in my life by determining what component failed and replacing. Even fixed the popping on my HDTV by reflowing many, many cold solder joints (known problem...)

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Have you done a lot of checking yet as to where you could find a schematic to the board and associated wiring to the various oven controls?

Have you actually accessed the control board to physically look for cold joints or other obvious problems?

 

Yes to both questions.

Have a wiring diagram in hand, but it does not define the J1 and J2 connectors. I believe it would only be in a more detailed troubleshooting manual that covers a bunch of ovens (which I do not have). This is a double oven, and it appears that the main relay board is the same as on single oven, just that there is a second relay board (slaved so to speak) for the second oven.

This clock display is specifically for a double oven.

On the second question - I've had the panel pulled out a couple of times to look over the clock board and a general health of the wiring in there. There are no burned resistors, or blown caps (electrolytic with the silver scribed tops), and have not powered down the oven to start reflowing but was planning on doing that tonight (helping my children with math tonight for tests though...)

With the question I posted, I want to try to figure out is it really the clock, or is it potentially the relay board.\

I don't like fixing things that are not broken - and with these very commercial boards (PWA's) you always run the risk of that.

So, do you have the information, or were you just curious?

 

Not JUST curious. Many posters come here hoping for miracles and never go to step 1 themselves. At least you affirmed both questions. I have had to resolder loose joints in boards. But as far as troubleshooting an otherwise good looking board?: No. You're up on me in that dept.

If you do find what you are looking for, come on back and let us know what it is as you never know when someone else may have the same thing.

 

I answered this in another thread, but I'm so excited to tell everyone - this seems like an endemic problem to these control boards, so I would love to save a buncha people a buncha money!

If you have any electronics skill, you can probably fix this without having to replace the board. I found a note elsewhere that said to replace C3 on the board, and I did, and it worked!! When I looked closely, I could see the bottom of the cap bulging out.

C3 is a 68uF electrolytic capacitor, it looks like it is a filter cap. I replaced it with a 100uF cap, the closest I could find that I got from a buddy, and it started working just fine.

All you need are some soldering skills and a capacitor. In fact, you don't need real good soldering skills - I didn't have any solder wick, so I pushed the cap's leg through and ended up lifting the pad, but still got it soldered.

Much better than spending the $160-$180 on a board. And even if it doesn't work, it's worth the try for what little effort it takes.

Good luck
ken

 

Ken,
I am having similar problems. Replaced the clock (cost $170) only to find still need to fix the relay panel ($265). I can return clock and repair, but not sure I understand exactly how to do both circuit board repairs. I have Jenn Air SVD48600B.
Do you know, or can you tell me where to look for specifics. Would love to repair and not put much more $$ into this unit. Not worth the $$ as it will probably happen again.
Please help.
Moe44

 

I did this capacitor repair this afternoon and it worked like a champ. I found the capacitor at Hobbymods best hobby modding electronic kits. For those without extensive electronics repair experience (like me) this is a very easy repair. Lot's of room on the board, nothing sensitive in the area. Remember, though, that capacitors have polarity. Note the orientation of the old capacitor (stripe location) before removing it.

 

Great, glad to hear it! My display is still going great after > a year. I wish I could figure out how to fix it so I can do a self-clean without it turning itself off, but that's what EZ Off is for I guess Sorry I didn't get back to Moe44, I never saw notification. If there is still something I can help with there, let me know.

ken